Power Needs for Short One-Night Boondocking

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GaryB

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Joined
Jul 29, 2006
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Location
Evansville, IN
As I close in on buying a 5er, I'm wondering whether I really need an inverter (and/or generator)or not.  About the only "boondocking" that I may do at first would be stopping at a Flying J, Walmart, etc. late at night while in transit to catch a few hours sleep while heading to the final destination.  And I doubt I would do that more than one consecutive night.

Given that, do I really need an inverter and/or generator if all I want is to have lights, run the Fantastik fans, watch a small amount of TV, take a hot shower and maybe fix something on the stove?  Of course, I realize I couldn't run the A/C or microwave.  Other than that, is there really anything else that I cannot do in moderation during those occassional "dry" nights?

Thanks
Gary
 
Although you may not think you'll do it now, boondocking in out of the way places is one of the enjoyable aspects of RVing, and for that you will want a generator.  You can get along without an inverter, but being able to run smaller AC appliances without the noise of a generator is very desirable.  Of course, you can always get a generator and one or more small inverters when you see the need, so for what you want to do now, you wouldn't need either of them.  You will need a 12VDC TV or a small inverter to watch TV, but your lights are DC and hot water and stove are propane.  Just watch your DC use and don't overly discharge your batteries.
 
It all depends on your battery capacity.   For overnighting, a good two battery setup should do for what you are talking about bar the TV.  The TV would depend on its size and nature (CRT, LCD, or Plasma).   Generally keep it small.  Better yet, read a book.  Water heater and refrigerator should be on propane.  Be sure that any anti-frost setting on the reefer is in the off position.

A run the next day should recharge your batteries.  No run?   Then you will need solar or generator.   

BTW, to prevent accidental drainage of your truck battery, unplug the tow vehicle when overnighting.   Sort of a just to be sure precaution -- cheap and easy.
 
Carl L said:
A run the next day should recharge your batteries.  No run?   Then you will need solar or generator.   
Click to expand...

Carl - Thanks.  When you say "a run the next day should recharge your batteries", are you referring to running the truck or plugging into CG electricity?  I didn't know that running the truck will charge my trailer batteries; I thought that only plugging into CG (or home) electricity will do that.  Anyway, that's good to know, if I understand you correctly.

Ned - Thanks also.  I had forgotten that TV is A/C only (unless it is a special D/C TV). 

Sounds like that, except TV, I can do all "critical" things during an occassional 1-night boondocking ordeal.  So I'll probably wait until I know that I'm going to be a frequent RV'er before I buy an inverter and/or generator.

Thanks again
Gary
 
I will tell you what I run.  First the load.  Rig is a class A, the regular house batteries (A pair of Interstate U-220's) run the lights, furnace and control electronics for the frige and optionally the hot wate heater. They also run assorted radios and stuff (I'm a ham radio optrator) typically, if I shut the radios down at night, and kill the isle lights, they last from 10 or 11 pm (when I kill the genrator) to 6 or 8 am,  NOTE; at some point I may add load to them in the form of the inverter

The inverter (A Xantrex Prosine 2.0) has it's own pair of AGM (Group 31) batteries plus another Group 31 marine grade battery (83 ah I think) and will typically come very close to the same life, it runs the televisions, VCR's Satellite receiver (A Dish 625 dual receiver DVR and a Coolsat FTA receiver) VCR's DVD player (off) Radio (Off) assorted quarter watt lights and a few other things which together might total 10 watts. Normal draw is around 100 watts durin the night for all the electronics, this includes the satellite transponder, this computer and the router and print server.

Those batteries also last about the same amount of time

So, I'd suggest two pair of U220's or 4 Group 31's (Roughly the same overall rating)

Of course if you want, i know where you can get some truly impressive batteries

And remember... You can always add more later :)
 
Karl said:
Carl,I believe that only works when on AC anyway, doesn't it?
Click to expand...

El wrongo!  It works just fine, and takes your batteries down like electricity is going out of style.  Bin there, done that.
 
I have a question about Carl's reply: "A run the next day should recharge your batteries".  By "run", do you mean "a run of the TRUCK" or plugging into CG power? 

I am wondering whether running the tow vehicle itself will recharge my trailer batteries.  I thought I would need to plug into CG power to recharge them.

Thanks
Gary
 
If your truck is fully wired for the usual 7 pin connector, there will be a charging line from the vehicle alternator to the trailer battery(s). But some lazy shops don't bother to provide the charge line when they install the trailer plug.
 
If your truck is properly wired, then the 7 pin connector will charge your battery trailer while hooked up.  You need to make sure its wired, and all fuses and relays are installed.  Ford, for instance,  does not always install the relays that enable this circuit.  Check your owners manual.

The reason it was suggested to disconnect your truck to trailer wire is that once connected, it is a closed circuit.  Meaning that if you turn the truck off, and turn stuff in the RV on, the RV will pull power from the trailer battery AND the truck battery.

 
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