Advice Please - Negotiating Used Truck Price

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xrated said:
I would be really surprised if they aren't on course to make at least 5K on the deal at $36,000 asking price.

Agree. Based on KBB and NADA retail truck should go for $30-31ish, make it $32 just cause it's exactly what you want. The fact that the dealership bought it and never sold it is irrelevant, they effectively sold it to themselves and used it for a year. It's a used truck, same as if they took it on trade. And if they had, they wouldn't have given more than $27-30 on trade. And I don't think "Ford Certified" means anything, it's under warranty anyway, certified or not.
 
Linda, sometimes it is better to check out CARMAX.  They have a reasonable sticker price and they DO NOT negotiate.  You get a better quality vehicle from them as they thoroughly research each car they get and if it doesn't meet their quality they simply send it to auction.  In 1998 we bought a 1995 OLDS from Carmax at a fair market price and I still drive it.  If I wanted a good reliable used vehicle that would last I would visit the nearest Carmax---------------NO, I am in no way affiliated with Camax.
Marvin
 
I'm proude of that fact that I have been thrown out of car dealers because of my  aggressive negotiations....... Never be afraid to walk out.  And the sales person know the bottom. Price. When they go to the sales manager office. They are really playing a game of sollitar whial your stewing for 5 min...... I tipicaly fallow them to the office when their not looking.  And when they notice me  and ask me to sit. I tell them I'm not wasting my time talking to them anymore is its the sales manager that makes the final design. And I want to talk to them myself.  That's the point when I'm usaily asked to leave
 
I thought I'd post an update with The End of the story.

On Wednesday I called the dealer (remember 350 miles away) and offered them $34,775 against their last offer of $36,000.  The sales manager refused and I was reminded that they are a non-negotiating dealership - that is, the price you see is the price you get.  Okay, so I said thanks.

Later I thought that in the whole scheme of things, $1200 was only about 1.2% of the overall amount it's going to cost me for this new life style plan.  So Thursday morning I was set to call back and say "I'll take it".  Already had travel plans that were doable, but I'd have to have given them a $500 deposit, so there was no turning back at that point.  For some reason, I decided to check the trailer weight numbers on manufacturers web stuff before calling (don't own a trailer a yet).  Well, new trailers (Outdoors RV), some not offered anymore, redesigned web site, and all the weights looked higher.  So I redid the numbers, but in my "emotional" state, double-counted the tongue weight - that is, I put it in the truck weight AND the trailer weight, so when I compared stuff, it only left me with a 5.6 % margin below CGVWR.  That's not the excess margin I'd like.  So, I didn't call the dealer.  Even later, when I realized I'd made the mistake, it still only gives me 11%, which I could accept, except what happens if my trailer weight ends up more or my loading is higher? or I add a 150# cap to the truck?

I used the Ford site to build "MY" 2017 truck - with same options/size/color etc. as the used 2015 I was considering (except I added the new 10-speed trans). With sales taxes included, it looks like the new one is about $10-11,000 more.  BUT, I get the second generation eco-boost, 10-speed, 800# more towing, and 1100# more combined weight capacity.  I like those numbers better.  If you want mo' truck, ya gots to pay mo' money.  But I also like being in a better position to negotiate in that there are 10 Ford dealers within a 12 miles radius of me.  Probably 20 if I go out 20 miles.  I found out yesterday at a dealer that I can order a truck with all the stuff I want as late as April-May for this model year.  Wahoo!  I'm satisfied with the decision. 

Thanks again to all who helped.  Truly appreciated.

Linda 
 
We all have some emotions.
Although you emotional attachment seemed strong, you did it right.
If it was meant to be it would have or will happen.
Well done!
 
Lou Schneider said:
An excellent choice, Linda!

X2 !!!

And you didn't even take a Chill Pill !!  ;)

One other thing you might look into ? If you find a dealer that will do the leg work for you ?

Spec out a truck with >Exactly< what you want and buy it AFTER the new model year has come out. A Left Over (?) if you will.

Example: I bought the 2012 Ford F-350 below... in January of 2013, Brand New but just Last years model... at a Considerable savings.

I handed my local dealer Fleet Sales guy my Spec Sheet, told him I wouldn't settle for any more, or any less than... what I had listed.

He went out on the "Dealer Net".. took 3-4 days.. found my truck 200 miles away.. I put up some Front Money.. they did a "Like Value" vehicle swap and met 100 miles from here.

I got JUST what I wanted, to the letter. Again, at a Considerable Savings to me.

Joe

Sorry for the long story.. Jus' thought I'd share, another buying idea ? 

 
BIG JOE said:
Sorry for the long story.. Jus' thought I'd share, another buying idea ?

No apology necessary as this idea has been rambling around in my head anyway.  I actually did this at the end of the 2016 year - starting last August/Sept. before the 2017 came out in October.  I had a dealer which offered to "find" me the truck I wanted, and they were unable to do so.  Maybe it's needing the Max Tow Pkg. or the extended fuel tank, wanting the ruby red color or NOT wanting a sun/moon roof or the Sport Pkg. or who knows what else.  That was the reason I began to think that I would end up needing to order a new model year vehicle.  I didn't push it because I liked what I was reading about the 2017 F150 changes.

Yeah, I was excited to find an opportunity to save some bucks and you gents and ladies were my sounding board.  But attached to THAT particular truck . . uhmmm not so much, cause I knew I have alternatives.  I don't think I even told the salesman that "this truck has EVERYTHING I need".  No way!  I'm sure everything worked out for the best even it is was an early morning mistake on my part that led to the outcome, however, with the increased trailer weight I still didn't like the numbers after correcting myself.  All is good.
 
Linda, I know it's a long shot, but do you or anyone you know, know a salesman that works at a Ford dealership?  If by chance you do, you might try and talk them out of one of their "D" plan pricing vouchers.  Any person that works at a Ford dealership has the "D" plan available to them and sometimes it can be extended out to another family member or even a friend.  D pricing gets you the vehicle pretty close to invoice or slightly lower....I can't remember exactly....it's been the 12 or 13 years since I sold Fords for a living.
 
Have you considered starting with NADA wholesale and then negotiating up for there? 

Also, in regard to doc fees etc.  - Last car I bought (an Accord) I said "I am going to write for $20,500.  This includes tax and all fees.  I don't give a hoot how you write it up.  You can write the car up for $500 and the rest rust roofing proofing and doc fees for all I care but see that car right there that we just got out of?  My check to you is going to be for $20,500."  He got it.

In regards to it being such a unique truck, I hate to burst your bubble but there is another one rolling off an assembly line as you read this.  That is the attitude to have with the car salesman.

It is just metal welded together - if you don't get this one another will come along.  They make tons of them!  Ever been on the freeway?  They are all over the place.  There ain't nothin special about any car or truck.
 
xrated said:
Linda, the very FIRST thing you need to do is to emotionally DETACH yourself from this truck.  When you get emotionally attached to something, it's way too easy to pay too much.  It's a business deal, pure and simple, nothing more...nothing less, and by your comments, you already own the truck from an emotional standpoint.  I'm not trying to be harsh, I'm simply trying to help you spend the least amount of money and get not only a truck that you want, but also the best value for your money.

Yes, yes, and yes!  Couldn't say it better myself.  Nothing against your gender, but emotional attachment is often easier for men than women.  Although I certainly have many guy friends who have paid WAY too much for trucks, boats, guns, etc. because they get in their head that they just HAVE to have it.

Jeff in Ferndale Wa said:
I recently purchased a 2008 F250 with 47,000 miles
I spent about six weeks looking online at craigslist ads,dealership ads,and Auto Trader,so I had a good idea of how trucks were priced.I also visited a few dealers and test drove a few rigs.

This has been my exact way of doing things on my last several vehicle and RV purchases.  In many cases I've spent many months shopping.  Craigslist, Ebay, Autotrader, Cargurus.com (my new favorite), etc. all have e-mail alerts that you can set up to send you automated messages when something is posted for sale that meets your desired criteria (year, make, model, mileage, features, etc).  Also don't count out buying gently used from a private party... that's where many of the best deals will be found.  There's nothing magical or better about buying from a dealership (especially not one 350 miles away where you obviously , and most times their prices are higher since they have a profit margin to maintain.  Private owners are usually just trying to pay off a loan, get close to KBB value, or get a better selling price than what a dealer will offer in trade.

Jeff in Ferndale Wa said:
I never worry whether they dealership is making any money. I do not believe they will sell a vehicle at a loss unless it has been sitting for a while.

Exactly right on both points.  And to the second part, that's why I like Cargurus.com so much, which I discovered on our most recent purchase of a 2013 Chevrolet Traverse (daily driver).  That site showed me how long a dealer had a certain vehicle listed, a schedule of price reductions, and rated the value (Fair Deal, Good Deal, Great Deal) based on other ads and sales numbers.  What I found our Traverse at a dealer ~200 miles away, I already knew it had been on their lot for several months and had been reduced in price a couple times.  From my own research and Cargurus confirmation, I knew it was priced much lower than similar models already.  So before I even contacted the dealer, I was armed with a lot of negotiating power.  I also asked a litany of questions over e-mail, so I knew absolutely everything and the deal was finalized before I made the long drive.  The dealer also knew I was serious that way, and not just some drive-by browser who may not actually show up with the money.  Plus I get to find out who serious the dealer/seller is by requesting information... if they ignore my questions or don't seem very serious in their responses, then it's a good sign that I probably don't want to deal with that place/person.

That's just my most recent example, but I've done that kind of pre-planning and negotiating with almost everything I buy... especially high dollar items.  If you have the patience, it definitely pays off!
 
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