xrated
Well-known member
So you are OK with knowing where to hook the charger leads?
xrated said:So you are OK with knowing where to hook the charger leads?
Mark, I don't disagree that problems in the chain can be a problem but I don't assume perfect either, just well maintained and designed.denmarc said:I beg to differ. It is also said the chain is only as stong as its weakest link. Many places for a weak link to occur in a multiple battery set up. Your scenerio assumes a perfect "chain". Not reality. Too many variables.
In reading the thread word for word, it appeared to me the OP has 2 6v batteries. But he doesn't confirm that fact. He never says type of batteries he has. Sounds to me like everyone is guessing.
I think it's a good time to start again. Lets find out exactly what the OP has in place (Maybe pics?) and help this poor poster out.
Desert_Rat said:'Myth' until, you know, tests and amperage readings are actually observed. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
I didn't want to continue this argument but, come on, you guys are taking your opinion a bit far; you're misinforming people. The industry disagrees with you.
And furthmore, I quit reading the article when I rechecked their math and found some of his published numbers to be wrong. .00012 (cable resistance for 20cm of cable) AND the additional .0002 (connector resistance) plus another .0002 connector reistance does NOT add up to what he said... .0015 ohms. The actual total resistance for what he is talking about...two connections and one length of cable is.... .00012 + .0002 + .0002 = .00052 not .0015.
xrated said:Remember though, as I posted above, his resistance numbers didn't add up correctly, which tosses out the validity of what he is saying to a big extent.
Here's the part I'm talking about...
And honestly, unless he used some sort of highly calibrated and accurate Test instrument similar to the ones we use in our high voltage testing program where I work, his numbers may be flawed also. I have no way of knowing that is the case though. Just one of our contact resistance testers, which tests down to 1/1,000,000 of an ohm, costs well over $20K. That is the type of test equipment that would be required to come up with some of the resistance numbers that he is touting. They may very well have access to that type of equipment, again, I don't know. But what I do know is that his math is flawed in the above quote, so in my book, he has lost some critical reliability with what he states.
marcortez said:This is what I was wanting to do and by no means am I a electrical engineer, who is wise to the ways of volts, amps and watts.
My camping will be done out west where there is normally ample hours of sun and 90% of this camping will be done without electrical hookups.
I don't have the trailer yet......but close to making a purchase.
The trailer "box" is 23 feet on the unit I am considering.
My useage would be minimal of 12V power.....I am single with no dogs, cats or any two legged companions.
Lighting, water pump, furnace fan if needed, refer electronics, electronic safety devices, OEM AM-FM-DVD player and the TV....along with a 600W inverter to power a laptop computer and various small electronic devices. Not all at one time.
I have zero need for a toaster, hair dryer, a Mr. Coffee maker or any other high draw electrical appliances.
Currently I camp in a truck slide in camper that has a 100W roof mounted solar panel feeding 2 Exide Edge 12V AGM batts in parallel, and is equipped with a 300W inverter that runs a laptop and a portable radio for hours on end with zero issues.
I was planning on getting a 120W GoPower portable solar panel setup to recharge the 2 supplied house batts on the yet to be purchased TT.
As an option before taking delivery of this new unit, I can change out the supplied batteries from 2 12V to 2 6V.
My tendency is to replace the supplied 12V batts (take off credit) with 2 Trojan T-105 6 volt units and wire in series to take advantage of increased Ah's and reported battery longevity, over 2 12V units.
Thank you and all comments welcome.
Desert_Rat said:First of all, why change out the Exides for the Trojans? the energy storage on both is basically the same, and although I'd agree that the Trojan is a better battery I don't think it's $300 better. Assuming your Exides are good, I would keep them and buy a 2nd panel with the money. To run all that stuff you'll need at least another panel anyway.
[/quote
The Exides are in the truck camper I have sold.....they are no longer in the equation. So the "why" does not apply.
I have already been told that "take off" credit for dealer installed run of the mill deep cycles would apply.
Ending up with $65 more each, or $130 for two Trojan T-105's. Instead of $300 more, it's down to $130 more with "take off" credit.
Based on my past use of a 100W solar panel and the dual Exides, and with my power requirements, a 120W solar panel seems sufficient.
xrated said:Well that changes everything. You have no choice on where you put the terminals from the charger.... You do have a 12V charger.....right?
markbarendt said:Mark, I don't disagree that problems in the chain can be a problem but I don't assume perfect either, just well maintained and designed.
IMO the myth exists because people don't maintain their systems as often as they should or the builder went cheap.
marcortez said:Desert_Rat said:First of all, why change out the Exides for the Trojans? the energy storage on both is basically the same, and although I'd agree that the Trojan is a better battery I don't think it's $300 better. Assuming your Exides are good, I would keep them and buy a 2nd panel with the money. To run all that stuff you'll need at least another panel anyway.
[/quote
The Exides are in the truck camper I have sold.....they are no longer in the equation. So the "why" does not apply.
I have already been told that "take off" credit for dealer installed run of the mill deep cycles would apply.
Ending up with $65 more each, or $130 for two Trojan T-105's. Instead of $300 more, it's down to $130 more with "take off" credit.
Based on my past use of a 100W solar panel and the dual Exides, and with my power requirements, a 120W solar panel seems sufficient.
Ah, that makes sense.
If I am understanding you correctly the two 12V batteries you want to change to the Trojan T105's are in the trailer you are going to buy.marcortez said:This is what I was wanting to do and by no means am I a electrical engineer, who is wise to the ways of volts, amps and watts.
My camping will be done out west where there is normally ample hours of sun and 90% of this camping will be done without electrical hookups.
I don't have the trailer yet......but close to making a purchase.
The trailer "box" is 23 feet on the unit I am considering.
My useage would be minimal of 12V power.....I am single with no dogs, cats or any two legged companions.
Lighting, water pump, furnace fan if needed, refer electronics, electronic safety devices, OEM AM-FM-DVD player and the TV....along with a 600W inverter to power a laptop computer and various small electronic devices. Not all at one time.
I have zero need for a toaster, hair dryer, a Mr. Coffee maker or any other high draw electrical appliances.
Currently I camp in a truck slide in camper that has a 100W roof mounted solar panel feeding 2 Exide Edge 12V AGM batts in parallel, and is equipped with a 300W inverter that runs a laptop and a portable radio for hours on end with zero issues.
I was planning on getting a 120W GoPower portable solar panel setup to recharge the 2 supplied house batts on the yet to be purchased TT.
As an option before taking delivery of this new unit, I can change out the supplied batteries from 2 12V to 2 6V.
My tendency is to replace the supplied 12V batts (take off credit) with 2 Trojan T-105 6 volt units and wire in series to take advantage of increased Ah's and reported battery longevity, over 2 12V units.
Thank you and all comments welcome.
Yes, doing the math is important.AStravelers said:If I am understanding you correctly the two 12V batteries you want to change to the Trojan T105's are in the trailer you are going to buy.
Assuming the 12V batteries each have about 100-120AH capacity, swapping then to a pair of 6V golf cart sized batteries at 220AH each, you will NOT be increasing your AH capacity. When you wire batteries in series the voltage adds but the total AH's stay the same. When you wire the two 12V batteries in parallel the voltage stays the same, but the AH adds.
I agree with Desert Rat, I don't think Trojans are that much better to be worth the extra cost. Go with a pair of Costco or Sam's Club golf cart batteries.
AStravelers said:If I am understanding you correctly the two 12V batteries you want to change to the Trojan T105's are in the trailer you are going to buy.
markbarendt said:http://www.exide.com/Media/files/Downloads/TransAmer/Products/Edge6pgMKTG27830_8-14.pdf
They did not make it obvious.marcortez said:That is what I was looking for but could not find........thank you.