Another tow vehicle question. Looking for the right TT for my TV

Hi All!

Another newbie to TTs in general and this forum in particular.  First off, thanks in advance for any advice and forgiveness if I'm asking an oft repeated question (I did look through the forum, honest). 

So, I think I may have done things in the wrong order.  I just bought a 2016 F-150 and am now wanting to get a TT.  I'm thinking - after doing a LOT of research - that I should have done it the other way around. 

I got a 2016 F-150 XLT SuperCab 4x2 with the 3.5 liter normally aspirated V6 (in other words NOT an Eco-Boost) with 3.55:1 gears and the 100lbs weight distributing hitch.  According to Ford's documentation, the max towing capacity is 5,000lbs with a GVWR of 6100lbs.

I'm looking for suggestions on a new TT that will sleep 4-6, but leave me enough overhead to actually put gas in my truck after hooking up to the TT without going over my limit.  So far, I've looked at the 2017 Autumn Ridge Mini 18BHS and the 2017 Keystone Summerland 1800BH, both of which are around ~3200lbs dry.  Anyone have any actual experience with these trailers and/or any other or better suggestions? 

Another question, is it worth getting the 3.73:1 gears installed in my truck (around $1,800)? That seems to be the only difference between my truck and the version that tows 7,400lbs.

Anyhow, thanks in advance for all of your assistance!

Hi and welcome to the forum. Yes I think you may have done it the wrong way around. Check the yellow label on your door as it has specifics for that truck. You need to use the wet or fully loaded, not dry weight to do calculations.

The experts will be along to give you sound advice I'm sure. Safe travels hope you get what you're looking for 

After doing some more research, I'm thinking that the 2017 Jayco Hummingbird 17FD might be a better way to go.  The GVWR is 3750lbs, which should give me a little bit of overhead for hauling gas, squishy bags of mostly water (people), and gear.  Anyone have any thoughts?

https://www.jayco.com/products/travel-trailers/2017-hummingbird/17fd/

Edit:  Hrmmm....  Went back and re-read about the 18BHS, and it seems that it's GVWR is 3950 and a dry hitch weight of 359lbs (no mention of max hitch weight, but would assume around 435lbs based on percentages), so it's still in the running I guess.  Honestly, I like it better since it has bunk beds for the kiddos.

Edit 2: Yellow sticker says combined people and stuff weight should not exceed 1642lbs total.  So subtract 435lbs for the tongue weight and 138lbs for gasoline (23g) should leave a usable load of 1069lbs.  If taking myself , my wife, and two kiddos, that would (currently) add up to ~600lbs.  So I should have ~470lbs of wiggle room for camping stuff.  Would that be cutting it too fine?

Welcome to the Forum!

Thank you for asking!

Yes, this is an often asked question.  It is a very important question, and I am happy to respond.

That yellow label weight of 1642 is the max weight your truck is designed to carry (CCC).  THANK YOU FOR PROVIDING THAT NUMBER!

If the WD hitch came from the factory, it should be included in the truck weight.  If it was a dealer option, it must be deducted from your CCC.

ALWAYS use the camper GVWR.  Nobody goes camping in an empty camper.  Your true hitch weight will be 10% - 12% of the GVWR.  Less than this, and it will not tow well.

Based on your data, your truck will be asked to carry 600# of people, 450# hitch weight and 100# WD hitch = 1150#.  That leaves almost 500# to spare.  A full tank of fuel is included in the yellow sticker weight.

Note items carried in the TT do NOT count as weight in the truck.  They will add to hitch weight.  You have a very limited CCC in the TT, so be careful not to overload it.

You should be fine, even with a little larger TT.  Just watch your weights!

What kind of floorplan/features/options do you want in the trailer?  I would not be buying it just based on weight!  (I doubt that you are doing that, but just sayin' )  Don't be afraid to start shopping non-new in your area too (Craigslist, Ebay, RVtrader.com, dealer lots, etc.) and you might just find the perfect trailer that also meets your towing needs.  New RV's depreciate like mad and you can save a LOT on something gently used.

scottydl said:

What kind of floorplan/features/options do you want in the trailer?  I would not be buying it just based on weight!  (I doubt that you are doing that, but just sayin' )  Don't be afraid to start shopping non-new in your area too (Craigslist, Ebay, RVtrader.com, dealer lots, etc.) and you might just find the perfect trailer that also meets your towing needs.  New RV's depreciate like mad and you can save a LOT on something gently used.

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Hi scottydl!

We're not looking for much, to be honest.  Enough space to get inside if the weather turns nasty, clean up if we get dirty, and room to sleep comfortably.  Otherwise, things like TVs or ovens or built-in wifi are all nice to have's but waaay down the list.

I've thought about buying used, but am always afraid I'll be buying someone else's problems.

grashley said:

You should be fine, even with a little larger TT.  Just watch your weights!

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Thanks Preacher Gordon!  I think I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on this now that I've heard from you and a few others (here and elsewhere). I may add the taller 3.73 gears before venturing anywhere with a lot of hills for the added margin.  Also was already planning on adding a transmission cooler anyway since I live in Florida and the summers can be pretty hard on equipment all by itself.

nvertedflyer said:

I've thought about buying used, but am always afraid I'll be buying someone else's problems.

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That's always possible, which is why self-education (what you're doing... keep it up!) and research are so important BEFORE buying.  But otherwise, there's at least strong anecdotal evidence that RV's are quite the opposite.  Buying a 3-5 year old unit that was well maintained can be the perfect blend of quality and value.  Problems with new RV's often become evident after a few months of ownership, as they start bumping down the road and things rattle loose.  Warranties are generally only 1 year, and those new owners can be the ones to get all the bugs worked out.  Then you come along and get a great deal on a great unit.  (Okay that's best case scenario, but you see what I'm saying) 

Thanks everyone!  I honestly appreciate the information and the time everyone took to respond!

Scott is correct.  If you get a decent used TT, it will probably be much more trouble free than a brand new one!  And cheaper!

One note on floor plan:  I understand your position, but when you are "stuck inside by rain" is when the floor plan REALLY becomes important!  Is there room for the whole crew to sit down and be comfortable?  Is there room in the shower to actually take a shower?  Can you cook a meal?  Sit down to eat?  If the weather is great, this does not matter, but you are spending a good bit of hard earned cash for this!  I suggest you find one that works for you regardless of the weather!

grashley said:

Scott is correct.  If you get a decent used TT, it will probably be much more trouble free than a brand new one!  And cheaper!

One note on floor plan:  I understand your position, but when you are "stuck inside by rain" is when the floor plan REALLY becomes important!  Is there room for the whole crew to sit down and be comfortable?  Is there room in the shower to actually take a shower?  Can you cook a meal?  Sit down to eat?  If the weather is great, this does not matter, but you are spending a good bit of hard earned cash for this!  I suggest you find one that works for you regardless of the weather!

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I'll look into used as well.  Is it better to check local dealer used inventory or surf Craigslist, etc?  I'd have to find an RV mechanic to check it over for me since I don't have enough experience to know what to look for beyond the obvious like water damage, mold, etc.  I'm all about either saving money or getting more for it if I can.

On the floor plan subject, we'll have to take everyone along before we pull the trigger to test the fit.

My two favorite "shopping" sites are RVTrader.com and E Bay.  PPL in Texas is a close third.  Local places are also important to keep tabs on, but where I live close to the end of the world, the choices are slim.

Your comment on floor plan is very critical, and something I had not heard.

RV inspectors are available.  Start another thread for help finding an inspector when the time comes.  Again, a very wise move!

nvertedflyer said:

I'll look into used as well.  Is it better to check local dealer used inventory or surf Craigslist, etc?

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Yes.

Check all sources available to you, to start getting an idea of what sales are like in your area.  Set up automated searches with your parameters, and you'll get emailed when something matches.  Once you research for awhile I think you'll find that dealers are substantially higher priced than a lot of private party sales.  NadaGuides.com is your friend in getting ballpark prices of what any year/make/model of RV should cost, new or used.  It's not gospel but it's a great starting point.  Do not add in options when pricing RVs (even though many sellers will do so to inflate the price)... Those are only for new units with upgrades or non-standard options.

As far as inspections, it's never a bad idea but really may not be necessary once you dive in and start getting used to what RVs should look like.  Water and mold are not always obvious, so look inside closets and cabinets for any stains, soft spots, or actual moisture that could suggest past or present water damage.  Beyond that, trailers are pretty simple from a mechanical standpoint ... tires, brakes, axles, and wiring are the primary components.  Motorhomes are another animal, but still manageable to inspect once you have some basic knowledge on motorhome bodies and automotive issues.