EPDM Coatings
rvupgradestore.com Composet Products PO Box Zone
Over The Network Custom Yacht Interiors

Author Topic: Converting a tt to toy hauler plumbing question  (Read 651 times)

Savagelh

  • Posts: 4
Converting a tt to toy hauler plumbing question
« on: January 15, 2017, 02:19:46 PM »
OK so I'm not new to rving at all but I just picked up a project rv and need some advice on it. It's a 1996 Dutchmen 26' bh. The rear 10' of the rv has already been gutted completely and the plumbing has been capped and new plywood installed on the floor. So my plan is to have fold up bunks on each side, a small 24x48" toilet/shower tucked away in one corner and to cut a large door in the back to load up to 2 atvs. 
   My first question is , is the rv capable of holding the extra weight of 2 atvs? The rear tires of the front one and front tires of rear one should be very close to being over top of the rv axle.
     My next question is a plumbing one, so the old toilet flange is in the center of the rv and I will need it 12" of of the side. There is a 3" threaded flush flange where it used to be. I will just plug that flange with a 3" plug. Where do I get a new threaded flange or rubber gasket to install in the new location? Do I just hope saw a hole in the top of the tank and glue a new flange in?

I know this is a fairly ambitious project but I have the tools and most of the know how to do it, I just need a little advice on how to get this started


Punomatic

  • ---
  • Posts: 525
    • Life in Black and Blue
Re: Converting a tt to toy hauler plumbing question
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2017, 06:45:39 PM »
Without seeing the toilet flange situation, it is hard to advise. Can you post some pix?  Regarding the load capacity of the trailer, I would first weigh the trailer, so you know where you are starting. Then weigh everything you take out and every thing you add, so you can have a fair idea of the final weight of your trailer. Do you know any of the specs: axle rating, tire load rating, GVWR, tongue weight? What you want to wind up with, I believe, is a trailer that, when loaded, is significantly lighter than the rated load capacity of the axles and tires. You want the tongue weight to be 10-12% of the loaded weight of the trailer. If you do the math, you should be able to answer your own questions about whether the trailer will carry the ATVs you want to put in it. Remember, you will also have the weight of whatever else you need for day to day living in the trailer (including any water you carry in the FW tank) when you are towing.
2016 Riverside White Water Retro 195
2014 Nissan Titan SL Crew Cab
DW and me and Pogo (the neurotic terrier-gone to the rainbow bridge) and Lulu (the Moxie with moxie)

Savagelh

  • Posts: 4
Re: Converting a tt to toy hauler plumbing question
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2017, 06:58:44 PM »
I already did the calculations for gvwr and I'm fine with 2 atvs. I was more worried about the structure itself. It seems like the floor is framed kind of light to hold an atv but maybe it's just me. I think at the very least I will reinforce the area of the floor under neath where the quad tires sit.

BigLarry

  • ---
  • Posts: 778
Re: Converting a tt to toy hauler plumbing question
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2017, 07:37:44 PM »
You need to make sure you still have at least 10% of your trailer weight on the hitch for the rig to tow properly.  If its too light, it'll be all over the road.  You might try placing the ATV's in place and see how much weight is on the hitch. 
Larry and Betty
Bryan, Texas
2017 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 Diesel
2016 Cougar 28RLS

2kGeorgieBoy

  • ---
  • Posts: 380
Re: Converting a tt to toy hauler plumbing question
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2017, 09:11:35 PM »
I don't know what kind of ATVs you have, but we also have 2. Mine is a 2008 Polaris 500 Touring and has a DRY weight of 770 lbs. My wife's is a 2012 Polaris 550 EPS with a DRY weight of 723 lbs. That's a total of about 1500 lbs, not counting any of the add-ons or fuel and oil. I estimate that there is about an extra 300 lbs including fuel, oil, extra gas in Rotopax cans, tools, clothes, and misc. That would be, at least in my way of thinking, a lot of weight to park in the middle of a floor that was not designed from the beginning to handle it. And it all will subtract from your overall capacity. And any reinforcement you do to the floor also adds more weight. Also, you will have to build a ramp/rear door which will have to be able to sustain the weight of the ATVs plus seal well to keep out dirt, dust and fumes. More weight. Perhaps you should visit a few dealers and look at purpose built toyhaulers to get a better idea of what's involved? Another add-on...I did a quick internet search using "how to build a toyhauler ramp room" and got quite a few hits. Maybe try the same thing and see what is out there?
« Last Edit: January 16, 2017, 10:32:08 AM by 2kGeorgieBoy »
2000 Georgie Boy Maverick
31' E450 V10  No slides
our toys:
'08 Polaris Touring LE ATV (mine)
'12 Polaris 550 XP ATV (wife's)
1968 AH Sprite (original owners, not on road at this time)
Gary, Jena, and Presley (our awesome yellow Lab).
Westcliffe, CO.

Savagelh

  • Posts: 4
Re: Converting a tt to toy hauler plumbing question
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2017, 07:17:43 AM »
So as an update, I scrapped the toilet idea since it just won't line up over the black water tank. I'm still planning on a shower though. My next project will be opening up the floor and reinforcing it where the atv tires will be sitting. I plan on using double or triple laminated 2x4 and spreading the weight over the frame cross members.

 

Hosted by Over The Network