Replacing Trimark entry door latch w/deadbolt

In some 20 degree weather in Alabama during December, first our door froze shut. I shouldered it open. Then the deadbolt was frozen so I worked it aggressively to get it open. The next morning I found the lower lock lever just flopping around. I asked DW and she said "it was frozen so I beat on it like you did last night."  Well, I got the door open but when I tried to lock it the lower lock cylinder came out with the key ...broken off at the base.

So, now I have a new Trimark latch kit with lower key matching my cargo door keys, and the top deadbolt unique. Has anyone done this replacement??

We are going on a three night rally tomorrow so I don't want to tear into it just yet, but checking it out today I can see that getting the deadbolt bolt out of the door might be a challenge. I anyone can give me some pointers that would be very helpful.

I did see that the replacement latch has a black inside plate where I had an original cream colored plate. They look interchangeable. Also, my outside latch is painted, unlike any other Winnebago I have ever seen. I think DW is going to want me to have the new one painted like the original.

Anyone who has replaced the latch have some pointers for me??

Crickets  ..

So far we've not had any door hardware fail so I have no pearls of wisdom.  Let me see what I can find out.

Paul - PM me your email address. I have a TriMark document that should help.

I got the latch replaced today. The instruction sheet John got for me was very helpful in establishing the order to go at it. There is the outside housing assembly, the inside plate assembly, and the latch assembly.  I left the original latch assembly in place. I was tempted to reuse the original inside plate assembly (and may yet depending on what the "boss" says) as our original was cream/off-white which matches the door liner, and the replacement is black. My original outside housing is painted to match the full body paint and the "boss" would like to see the new one painted too ...interesting that full-body paint coaches have the storage door latches painted but the entry door latches are normally black ...no idea why they are not painted too on new coaches.

Replacement was not terribly difficult, but it is a bit of a struggle getting the outside housing off due to the long deadbolt plunging into the door. Wiggling it around and playing with the lower lock/latch linkage got me to a place where it would come out, then somewhat the same to get the new one in. I was unable to connect the linkage for the power door lock actuator w/o removing the door liner (the old one came out easy due to the lower lock cylinder being broken off) and decided not to go there as my power door lock is very intermittent anyway (the remote key fobs quit years ago). Getting the linkage rod attached to the inside plate threaded through the latch release took some trial and error, but wasn't terribly difficult. Then I discovered that the outside housing screw holes were not threaded so had to remove everything, tap the holes, and do it all again. I should have thought to check the holes before assembly as I have had to tap all the storage door latches I have replaced over the years ...nothing new, and not mentioned in the instructions. The instructions specify the torque for the screws that hold the inside plate to the outside housing, but I didn't have the adaptors to attach my torque wrench to the torx bit so winged it on the torque. All works well ...new deadbolt key with larger head, and original cargo door key fits the bottom lock as originally delivered.

Perhaps the screws are self tapping.

John Hilley said:

Perhaps the screws are self tapping.

Click to expand...

Did not appear to be self-tapping.

Paul - did you happen to take any pictures of the job? Glad you got 'er done.

Nope, no pics. If DW has me remove it to have it painted I will try to remember to take some then. Not much to see really. The hardest part is just getting the outer half positioned just right to get it out of the door.

Well, things got complicated today.  DW requested I join her in the motorhome to discuss some changes she wants to make, but the door would not open. I checked both inside and outside operation many times yesterday before locking up for the night and it worked fine. But today the outer handle feels normal but does not open the door.

Long story short, I forced a window open (breaking the plastic latch) to open the door from the inside. After disassembly and inspection I had a problem with going back together with the outer linkage engaging the inner linkage and ended up bending the outer tab just a bit to help it better engage the inner cog.  After it was all installed and working fine I believe the problem was in the self-tightening nut that is adjusted with a nut driver through the edge of the door frame. That nut is on the linkage rod that trips the latch release.  The instructions John got for me say to close the latch (door open), and hold the inner handle open while snugging that nut until the latch releases, then back the nut off 1-1 1/2 turn. I did that yesterday and then tested both inner and outer handles. Today when I did that, when the inner handle would release the latch, the outer handle would not. Also, I noted the nut was much further out on the rod than it originally was. So reversing the directions, I closed the latch and held the OUTER handle open while snugging the nut until the latch released. I did NOT back the nut off as instructed, but fine-tuned it to the point where I liked the feel of both inner and outer handles, with either releasing the latch shortly before full travel, and neither releasing the latch when the lower lock is engaged.

And I did take some pictures today until my phone ran down. Pics and verbiage are on my web page at http://www.pjrider.com/DoorLatch.htm ...I also linked the instruction sheet there for anyone who might like to have it.

Unfortunately some of those once-in-a-lifetime repairs are learning experiences  . Thanks for documenting the job, I'll make a link to it in our resources sticky.

Paul
I recently had to replace my door latch assembly. I only used the outside piece, as the TriMark rep said that was the only piece I needed. We had to compare numbers stenciled into the original to insure correct replacement.
I originally thought it would be a quick R &R but it was not. The original came out easily but the install was enough to test my last nerve. I had the unit in place and used 2 small punches in the screw hole to align for the screws. That is when the fun started, after an hour or so I took the assembly out and to my surprise the holes where not tapped. I had to tap the holes(8x32) but I had lent my tap and dye set to my son in NJ. This set up a trip to Lowes, and a new set.
Putting the lock in place again I got it aligned and 3 screws in place but it would not work, 5 times later I discovered that the lock bar was down and the thing would not open, finally got it installed properly and working nicely.
What I thought was an hour job turned into4 plus

depchief said:

...What I thought was an hour job turned into4 plus

Click to expand...

You too?  I have a habit of consistently underestimating time required for a job, usually by at least 50%.

What I love about this forum. Personal experiences such as this and the attention to detail. Might just help someone out tomorrow.
I know it's helped me.

Call TriMark and talk to Terry, she will walk you through the repair and send you the parts needed. She first had me send her a picture of my latch, then promptly sent me the needed repair parts. Great lady, great service.