youracman
Well-known member
2007 WGO Outlook, 31C
I have no power to the heat pads on my holding tanks (actually measured 0 VDC at the connection wires there at both pads under the coach.) Power is supposed to come from slot #5 at the load center under the fridge, and that (15A) fuse is good. Of course the wiring there at slot #5 just disappears into a loom as it heads off into oblivion.
This was a So Calif coach all its previous life, so the tank heaters may never have worked.........dunno. A pair of nearly new Interstate golf cart batteries do a great job of powering everything else in the coach. The switch that should turn the heaters on lights up red, but from what I have seen on one of the wiring diagrams from WGO, that is just an indicator that there is power at the switch ....... and you should turn it off if the ambient temp is 40 F or above. The actual switch contacts apparently switch on a relay and the relay contacts provide power to the heaters (should be about 10A.) My (old school) approach: if you are having trouble with a ckt with a relay in it, the relay should be considered "guilty until proven innocent). :^) Sorta surprising to me that a relay should even be req'd at all to switch 120 watts.
Has anyone else had this tank heater problem with a WGO class C? If so, where do you think the relay is to be found? (The tank heater switch is on the fridge wall and I HOPE the fridge doesn't have to be removed to gain access.)
I don't know that I will ever use these holding tank heaters, but I would like to have them working.........just in case I "get caught" in an unplanned cold weather situation. If all else fails, i could always run my own wires back there with a hefty toggle switch, fuse, an indicator light and an ammeter to "prove" they are drawing current.
Thanks for any clues..................... ed s
I have no power to the heat pads on my holding tanks (actually measured 0 VDC at the connection wires there at both pads under the coach.) Power is supposed to come from slot #5 at the load center under the fridge, and that (15A) fuse is good. Of course the wiring there at slot #5 just disappears into a loom as it heads off into oblivion.
This was a So Calif coach all its previous life, so the tank heaters may never have worked.........dunno. A pair of nearly new Interstate golf cart batteries do a great job of powering everything else in the coach. The switch that should turn the heaters on lights up red, but from what I have seen on one of the wiring diagrams from WGO, that is just an indicator that there is power at the switch ....... and you should turn it off if the ambient temp is 40 F or above. The actual switch contacts apparently switch on a relay and the relay contacts provide power to the heaters (should be about 10A.) My (old school) approach: if you are having trouble with a ckt with a relay in it, the relay should be considered "guilty until proven innocent). :^) Sorta surprising to me that a relay should even be req'd at all to switch 120 watts.
Has anyone else had this tank heater problem with a WGO class C? If so, where do you think the relay is to be found? (The tank heater switch is on the fridge wall and I HOPE the fridge doesn't have to be removed to gain access.)
I don't know that I will ever use these holding tank heaters, but I would like to have them working.........just in case I "get caught" in an unplanned cold weather situation. If all else fails, i could always run my own wires back there with a hefty toggle switch, fuse, an indicator light and an ammeter to "prove" they are drawing current.
Thanks for any clues..................... ed s