2007 Adventurer Won't Start

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typerr

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Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
9
Hello Folks

I've got a 2007 Adventurer 35A on the W24 chassis. She has been sitting in storage since our trip last October and when we went to start her about three weeks ago the chassis battery was dead although the steps rolled out, boost switch didn't work so I used jumper cables to start her up and let her run for 10 minutes or so. Today I went back to start her up again and the chassis battery was once again dead at about 5v and the steps didn't move. I tried boost with no luck. Hooked up the jumper cables and got dash lights and brief clicking then nothing. Now I get no dash lights, no clicks, no boost, no nothing. The house batteries are at 13.4v so I know they are good. Thoughts?
 
I had the same problem in my boat.  Found out that the battery can test fine on volts, but if there is no amperage it is useless and needs replaced.  I replaced and all was well. 
 
Check the water levels in the battery cells and measure the specific gravity of each cell. How old are they? Some batteries have a partial of complete warranty. Even if you don't have the receipt!

 

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The battery came from Walmart and my tire pressure monitor was left plugged in and killed whatever was left after I ran it a couple weeks ago.

I don't mind buying a new battery.

I've never had a situation where the jumper cables failed to start the vehicle or atleast light up the dash...
 
captcosmic said:
Check the water levels in the battery cells and measure the specific gravity of each cell. How old are they? Some batteries have a partial of complete warranty. Even if you don't have the receipt!
Click to expand...
Good advice. Specific gravity is about the only foolproof way to determine state of charge in a flooded cell battery. If your batteries are five to seven years old, they are at or near end of life and should be replaced. I never wait for batteries to go bad - five years old and they get replaced regardless.
 
So I went to back to the RV today with a new battery, installed it and nothing has changed. When I turn the key I get dash lights, a small click and nothing else. After that all is dead. No more dash lights, no nothing. The digital voltage readout back at the switch center does not read anything for chassis although I still get 13.5 volts for the coach batteries. If I cycle the coach battery on/off switch I can get a reading on the voltage readout for chassis of 12.5v and the dash will once again light up when I turn the key but it does the same click then dead. Could the battery solenoid or relay have something to do with this? On a car I'd suspect the ignition switch but I'd like to be sure before I go down that rabbit hole....
 
typerr said:
So I went to back to the RV today with a new battery, installed it and nothing has changed. When I turn the key I get dash lights, a small click and nothing else. After that all is dead. No more dash lights, no nothing. The digital voltage readout back at the switch center does not read anything for chassis although I still get 13.5 volts for the coach batteries. If I cycle the coach battery on/off switch I can get a reading on the voltage readout for chassis of 12.5v and the dash will once again light up when I turn the key but it does the same click then dead. Could the battery solenoid or relay have something to do with this? On a car I'd suspect the ignition switch but I'd like to be sure before I go down that rabbit hole....
Click to expand...
I'm far from being and auto mechanic... sounds like it could be the coil ?
 
Did you take a look at the connections from the battery to the starter? I assume the connections on the battery are looking good since you swapped out the battery with a new one. What does it do when you hold down the MOM switch and try starting it?
 
Get a long jumper cable, connect the positive end to the battery side of the starter solenoid, other end connects to the positive post of the battery. Negative side from the negative battery post (from the POST not from chassis), connect to a good (as in shiny) ground near the starter. Now comes the fun part.

Try to start with the ignition switch. If nothing happens, use a jumper at the solenoid to apply +12V to the coil. If nothing happens the solenoid is probably bad. To confirm the starter is okay, using a pair of pliers or short screwdriver and short from the +12v of the jumper cable you added to the starter side of the solenoid. You will make sparks, it might seem scary, but if done correctly you won't destroy or melt anything. If this doesn't sound like a good idea to you, then DON'T do it.

The starter solenoid on our last sailboat's diesel engine failed when we were in the Bahamas, every time I had to start the engine, I was in the engine compartment with a pair of pliers shorting the posts on the solenoid. Started the engine this way for a few days until a new starter was sent to Nassau.
 
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