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Author Topic: Norcold to residential fridge project  (Read 3427 times)

BinaryBob

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Norcold to residential fridge project
« on: March 31, 2017, 09:15:39 PM »
Like many of you, I’m researching the replacement of my norcold 1201 with a residential fridge. There is a lot of useful information here on this popular topic.
It’s turning out to be frustrating. Picture 01 shows the current situation. There is plumbing underneath so I am only able to drop the bottom about 2”.
Looking at the Norcold specs for the 1201, the cabinet width is 32.4 and height 63.2. Another post indicated the installed floor for the norcold is 1.5” thick. Replacing with 3/4” plywood gives another 1/2" of height.
I’m not ready to pull this unit to get an exact measurement, but unless I’m missing something, I would need a 32 X 66 fridge.
Further complication is picture 2. There is only 30” between the door face of the existing norcold and the stationary cabinetry. (15" from the end of the open door to the cabinetry). This makes french doors preferable but not mandatory.
I’m having a difficult time finding a quality fridge with these specs. The popular Frigidaire LFHT1837 does not appear to be available any more.
Anyone else faced with a similar situation? How did you handle? What fridge did you get?
« Last Edit: March 31, 2017, 09:17:24 PM by BinaryBob »
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BRex

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2017, 11:05:28 PM »
I would not let the plumbing underneath your current fridge deter you. Plumbing and wiring can be re-routed if you just need a few more vertical inches.


Good luck and please post pics as you go.....

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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2017, 10:18:00 AM »
Not an insurmountable problem. See this post from our fridge conversion thread in the sticky topic section.
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Kevin Means

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2017, 11:01:08 AM »
And remember to verify that the fridge you ultimately choose will fit through your doorway. I've read that many fridges will fit once the fridge's door is removed (not a big deal apparently) and several folks have said they had to remove the front passenger seat in their DPs to "make the turn." (Also not a big deal) But I read about one poor guy who could only get his new fridge into his RV by removing his windshield - yikes!

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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2017, 05:09:30 PM »
Thanks for the responses.
Some progress.... I've figured how to re-work the mess under the fridge. Along with the kitchen drain pipe, I also have a small outdoor radio bay jutting inside about 6 inches. I can work the fridge floor to be flush with that.
A  trip to Lowes found a lot more options for sizing than I realized from just looking on the web.
This Frigidaire LGHT1846QF looks like it should work.
Thanks for the tip Kevin. My door (not a DP) is 27" wide. According to the specs. the depth without doors is 26.88. That's gonna be tight.
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Rene T

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2017, 05:20:28 PM »
You're also going to figure out how to seal the outside access doors. Cold air will come in through them and enter the RV.  Now if you found a fridge with the condenser on the back, you would not need to close off those access doors. Then you could just insulate with fiberglass on all four sides of the fridge.
If you do need to seal them, Gary B Had some pictures as to how he did it last year. Maybe he can pull up those pictures again for you.
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afchap

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2017, 07:18:32 PM »
I used Frigidaire model LFHT1817LF. I had to lower the compartment floor apx 2" and did a little re-plumbing on the central vac system underneath the shelf. I made a new faceplate underneath and trim on the right side from red oak, and after a clear stain it was a perfect match. I used a combination of duct tape and spray foam to seal the access door. It can still be removed to unplug the fridge, etc, but is pretty well insulated.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2017, 07:15:51 AM »
That Frigidaire looks similar to ours I installed a few years ago. Here's my fridge write-up.
--John
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Cant Wait

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2017, 08:28:39 AM »
Bob Just food for thought, The Samsung fridges work OK on a MSW inverter.  I don;t know what's in your unit but some of the fridges you'll need a PSW inverter for them to operate properly.  I know a lot of write ups on conversions where they used the Samsung's for this reason.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2017, 09:24:28 AM »
I've been tracking the various fridge conversions write ups here on the forum.
Very valuable information.
I have no inverter in the rig (well.... I don't count the crappy Dimension 300W in the overhead bin that is supposed to power the TV's)
After the fridge install, I was planning to have a PSW inverter installed that will power all the 110's. I could sure use some advice on that as well.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2017, 10:50:45 AM »
OK... I'm amateur handy on most things, but one of the reasons I tackled this project is to follow the write ups of those who have tackled this project.
One thing I CAN do is follow instructions!  Barely started and here's another Q:
When I picked up the Watts A159 plug at the Home Depot, the dude said never put pipe dope on a flared fitting; let the flare due the job.
Seems all of you have doped the fitting.
Which is it?
« Last Edit: April 02, 2017, 10:53:20 AM by BinaryBob »
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Lou Schneider

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2017, 12:06:02 PM »
You're also going to figure out how to seal the outside access doors. Cold air will come in through them and enter the RV.  Now if you found a fridge with the condenser on the back, you would not need to close off those access doors. Then you could just insulate with fiberglass on all four sides of the fridge.
If you do need to seal them, Gary B Had some pictures as to how he did it last year. Maybe he can pull up those pictures again for you.

Don't forget to seal up the roof vent. 

With a rear coil refrigerator you can keep the original vents as-is and seal around the refrigerator into the room, since this one vents into the room through the grill in it's base you'll want to seal and insulate the outside openings in the enclosure instead.

You'll want to leave the rear access door as a way to get to the AC plug and water connection, just add some foam insulation to seal it up.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2017, 12:11:04 PM by Lou Schneider »

Alfa38User

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2017, 12:37:45 PM »
Quote
the dude said never put pipe dope on a flared fitting; let the flare due the job.

The dude is correct!!! 8)
Stu
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afchap

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2017, 02:52:41 PM »
We cannot swing the single refrigerator door fully open due to contacts with the opposite cabinets. I would have preferred the French door Samsung with bottom freezer that runs off MSW, but DW did not want a bottom freezer. We rarely have a desire to run the refrigerator off inverter so I settled for what she wanted.  My write-up with pics is at http://www.pjrider.com/ReferReplace.htm.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2017, 03:27:41 PM »
The Norcold is out!
Not bad for working solo.
Slid it out on a couple of 2X4's and didn't damage anything..... so far.
Pic 4 is now what I have to work with.
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Rene T

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #15 on: April 02, 2017, 04:05:20 PM »
You only gave us 2 pictures.
Does the old fridge still work?  I sold ours last summer for $500.00. It was 6 years old.
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2017, 05:10:29 PM »
The details of removing the norcold have been well documented here, so I didn't do many pictures of the removal process.  Lucky for me, whoever worked on this last (presumably a recall) failed to bolt the left side. The straps at the top were also missing bolts.
Now that it's out, I find I can easily lower the plumbing by cutting the vertical under the sink and cutting the vertical where it drops into the grey tank and adding sleeves to both.
The new fridge is going to jut out about 4 inches with a 30 inch depth (excluding handles). Does that seem like too much? I haven't ordered the new one yet.
Here is a picture of charring at the top. I've seen pics here of worse, but it's still alarming.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #17 on: April 02, 2017, 05:13:05 PM »
Rene, the old one sort of worked, if the ambient temps were below 75 degrees.
With the cost of a new cooling unit, I never really thought anyone would be interested in buying it.
It's going to the scrap heap...
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #18 on: April 02, 2017, 06:11:28 PM »
That Frigidaire looks similar to ours I installed a few years ago. Here's my fridge write-up.

John,
While not matching my setup exactly, your write up is my goto reference for this project.
Other contributions are really valuable as well.
A million thanks.
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Lou Schneider

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #19 on: April 02, 2017, 10:15:38 PM »
The new fridge is going to jut out about 4 inches with a 30 inch depth (excluding handles). Does that seem like too much? I haven't ordered the new one yet.

4 inches looks like it will stick out less than the door opening to the bathroom.  Can you live with that?

afchap

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #20 on: April 02, 2017, 10:51:18 PM »
Mine sticks out 4" at the bottom,  closer to 2+at the top ...not a noticeable difference. I extend the floor of the compartment 1 inch out from the edge of the opening in order to support the front feet. At the handles,  it is 7 inches.
Paul ... (KE5LXU), was fulltimin', now parttimin'...
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #21 on: April 03, 2017, 08:09:49 AM »
...Here is a picture of charring at the top. I've seen pics here of worse, but it's still alarming.
As far as I'm concerned, any absorbed gas fridge (Nocold/Dometic) is a ticking fire bomb.  I should have gotten rid of mine years earlier.
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #22 on: April 04, 2017, 08:30:21 PM »
Some progress. Slow, as I'm not retired yet.
Got the plumbing done.
Pic 6 is the existing waste line from the sink to the grey tank. Too tall for the future refrigerator base.
Since it's such tight quarters, a hacksaw cut seemed too irregular so I used my PVC cutters. The amount of reduction was too slight to risk damaging the existing pipe, so I replaced all the elbows. (pic 7)
Pic 8 is the finished job. Glory be! No leaks.....
Tomorrow is the new electrical outlet.
Wish I had more time to spend on this!
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #23 on: April 05, 2017, 06:44:01 AM »
..Since it's such tight quarters, a hacksaw cut seemed too irregular so I used my PVC cutters. ..
One of man's great inventions. I bought a pair of Klein PVC cutters years ago and have used them a bunch, I never use a hacksaw anymore if it will fit in the Kleins.
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NoMoreAZ

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #24 on: April 05, 2017, 06:20:28 PM »
Don't forget to seal up the roof vent. 

You'll want to leave the rear access door as a way to get to the AC plug and water connection, just add some foam insulation to seal it up.

For top... Fiberglass batts, or foam board; outside remove vent cover and use spray foam if desired.

For side... Metallic tape used inside the door to seal all the openings completely. Gray pipe insulation, trimmed, between the ridges, etc. Makes a neat job.

Also think how you are going to latch the doors for travel. if interested I will explain mine. My latches are completely hidden, no straps nailed to the wall, etc.
NoMoreAZ
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #25 on: April 05, 2017, 11:26:01 PM »
For top... Fiberglass batts, or foam board; outside remove vent cover and use spray foam if desired.

For side... Metallic tape used inside the door to seal all the openings completely. Gray pipe insulation, trimmed, between the ridges, etc. Makes a neat job.

Also think how you are going to latch the doors for travel. if interested I will explain mine. My latches are completely hidden, no straps nailed to the wall, etc.

Yes, please. I would be very interested.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #26 on: April 06, 2017, 06:55:59 AM »
I filled the vent panel with expanding foam. Since my fridge was on a slide, I permanently closed off the upper vent. For a door latch, I was able to make a simple twist dog. Page four of my fridge write-up near the bottom are details.
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #27 on: April 06, 2017, 09:16:37 AM »
I bought a can of Loctite Tite Foam.
Supposed to be a lot denser.
We'll see how it works this weekend.
I want to be able to open the side vent panel for the ice maker connection when we winterize.
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NoMoreAZ

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #28 on: April 06, 2017, 06:39:14 PM »
Yes, please. I would be very interested.

Will do. Should have something put together by 4/9/17.
NoMoreAZ
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #29 on: April 07, 2017, 07:05:21 AM »
I bought a can of Loctite Tite Foam.
Supposed to be a lot denser.
We'll see how it works this weekend.
I want to be able to open the side vent panel for the ice maker connection when we winterize.
That foam should work fine for you. Since my fridge (Frigidaire) doesn't have a fully closed in back like our home Samsung, I pull the vent cover off once or twice a year and vacuum the dust off the condenser coil. There's actually good access to the compressor and other goodies back there.
--John
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #30 on: April 07, 2017, 07:55:49 AM »
The dude is correct!!! 8)

While the dude is correct, it does not hurt to put just a slight amount on the BACK side of the flare or threads to reduce friction, it just helps tighten them up a hair more. The sealing surface gets nothing.
Will and Jane
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #31 on: April 07, 2017, 08:37:14 AM »
Too late...
I wrenched it in, turned the gas on and stuck the end in a glass of water to make sure.
There's about 2 feet of line sticking out from the floor. Gonna strap the line down so it's not bouncing.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #32 on: April 07, 2017, 08:40:01 AM »
Going to need some trim pieces. Anyone match up Winnie's "washed maple" woodgrain? I assume poplar would be the best choice to match with some type of minwax.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #33 on: April 08, 2017, 07:17:55 AM »
Poplar is a good secondary wood but it's difficult to find a clear board with no green areas. I used it as temporary trim around my fridge until I could replace it with cherry wood.

You might be able to do some kind of wash to get it to sorta kinda look like maple but it will take a bit of experimenting. Having said that, I only use poplar where it doesn't show, it's just too difficult to stain it to match a hardwood.

About Minwax - avoid the combo stain varnish, I have never had good luck with a coating like that. The problem is you might need to apply several applications of a stain (or mix a custom stain) to get the look you want. With the combo stain-varnish you basically get the stain color shown on the can (depending on what wood you use.)

I would use genuine maple for your trim. If you don't have a local hardwood source, there are suppliers that can ship.

Just thought of another idea, you could use a veneer over the poplar, that would be a bit of work but it would be less expensive than real maple.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2017, 07:20:06 AM by John Canfield »
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NoMoreAZ

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #34 on: April 08, 2017, 05:47:53 PM »
Yes, please. I would be very interested.
As promised...

The instructions are listed in numbered sequence. If I do this it this way is easier for me to follow. Considering your UID on the forum, the numbers at the start of each step have been adjusted accordingly.


This travel latch installation was installed on a Frigidaire LGHT1837N F, top freezer model.

0000) Obtain 2 ea. drawer/cabinet latching assemblies, (AKA push latch, drawer catch assy). Latches used here are ‘beefier’ than the ones normally found in cabinet drawers, at least in our case. The adjustable portion of the latch in our cabinets is 2.125” long. For the refrigerator it is 2.8125 “ long and thicker. This helps bridge the gap between the refrigerator door(s) and the added strip. The latches are a generic item.

0001) Obtain a piece of hard wood, a good choice would be cabinet moulding. Cut to fit to 1.4375” H, 15.5” W, and 0.375 Thick. Height is critical so the doors do not rub on the strip. Note the angled cut on the right side of the wood strip.

0010) Drill three (3) thru holes in the wood, matching the three (3) left most (assuming hinges of refrigerator on right) screws that exist in the cabinet between the refrigerator and freezer doors.

0011) Obtain three (3) new screws, same diameter, and longer length to account for added wood strip.

0100) Paint all 6 sides of the wood to match the area where the wood strip is to be installed. Paint back side of wood because of temperature and moisture in area when opening and closing doors.

0101) Attach wood strip with the three (3) new screws. If you determine that the right portion of the strip is too loose or may move after time, a small amount of appropriate adhesive may be used. Consider the porosity of the two materials when choosing the adhesive.

0110) Mount latches as shown. Adjustable portion on wood strip, non-adjustable portion on doors.

0111) Perform necessary adjustments.


We have not had any problems with this latching method. Fine tuned the adjustments, twice I think, in the 4.5 years the unit has been in the coach.

I did not make any new holes in the refrigerator cabinet. This is good because one does always know what a manufacturer puts where! Only new holes are in the doors. Since there is no water lines, ice cube chutes, 4 port routers with Wi-Fi, cameras, TVs, horoscope predictors, etc. in the doors of this model the new holes should not be a problem.

Hope this works for you.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2017, 06:35:57 PM by NoMoreAZ »
NoMoreAZ
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #35 on: April 08, 2017, 07:19:12 PM »
That looks like the Cadillac of latching systems.
Not sure how the board thickness doesn't interfere with closing, but I'll have a better idea once the fridge is delivered.
Thanks for the detailed instructions.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #36 on: April 08, 2017, 07:40:49 PM »
Poplar is a good secondary wood but it's difficult to find a clear board with no green areas. I used it as temporary trim around my fridge until I could replace it with cherry wood.

You might be able to do some kind of wash to get it to sorta kinda look like maple but it will take a bit of experimenting. Having said that, I only use poplar where it doesn't show, it's just too difficult to stain it to match a hardwood.

About Minwax - avoid the combo stain varnish, I have never had good luck with a coating like that. The problem is you might need to apply several applications of a stain (or mix a custom stain) to get the look you want. With the combo stain-varnish you basically get the stain color shown on the can (depending on what wood you use.)

I would use genuine maple for your trim. If you don't have a local hardwood source, there are suppliers that can ship.

Just thought of another idea, you could use a veneer over the poplar, that would be a bit of work but it would be less expensive than real maple.

I'm not much of a wood worker. I read somewhere that poplar is a popular stain matching wood since it's so light.
From your advice, I picked up some maple at a local Rockler store. Good move.
After considerable experimenting, I found a match for the Winnie/Itasca "washed maple" finish:

Two coats of minwax #209 (Natural), applied liberally and let soak in for 15 minutes before removing excess.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #37 on: April 09, 2017, 07:25:34 AM »
...From your advice, I picked up some maple at a local Rockler store. Good move.  After considerable experimenting, I found a match for the Winnie/Itasca "washed maple" finish:
Most excellent! You just saved yourself a bunch of time and trouble by using maple instead of poplar. Birch is a great wood for staining, I used some 1/8" birch plywood for some interior projects and stained to match our cherry.
--John
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BRex

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #38 on: April 12, 2017, 11:50:09 PM »


How are you allowing for the waste heat from the refrigerator condenser to escape? When I changed out the defunct Dometic in a 2001 Rexhall I too sealed the vent behind the fridge but left the rooftop vent open so there could be a natural path for the heat off the condenser. By leaving the vent open I felt that less heat was being introduced into the RV and we mostly use the rig in the summer.
I can feel heat rising from the back of our house fridge as it goes up the back and under the overhead cupboard. Same idea.

I will be interested in responses as I am thinking of dumping the Dometic RM7732 in our current coach.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #39 on: April 13, 2017, 07:12:54 AM »
The replacement fridge will have specifications for free space required around it for adequate ventilation, I have at least three inches all around the fridge box. My compressor and condenser coil are lower rear of the fridge and it draws probably most ventilation from the bottom. At any rate, I think we installed our residential fridge about five years ago and it works just fine.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #40 on: April 13, 2017, 07:33:00 AM »
My compressor is also in the back at the bottom.
Planning about the same gaps as you John, except the back of the fridge will be fairly close to the wall.
Plenty of ventilation coming up from under the new floor base.

Short break on the project. Fridge will be delivered Tuesday. Just need to cut the front wood trim and build the floor base.
I'm hesitant to proceed further until I have the fridge for actual measurements.
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afchap

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #41 on: April 13, 2017, 09:59:09 AM »
Mine can pull air under the bottom front and through holes I drilled in the "floor" of the compartment. I also have 3 small vents in the trim across the top front that are not visible unless you are really tall. I can feel a bit of heat from them sometimes.  (The top trim and right side trim have Velcro and are mounted tight against the fridge. And I did leave the roof vent alone.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #42 on: April 14, 2017, 06:26:36 AM »
Mine can pull air under the bottom front and through holes I drilled in the "floor" of the compartment. ...
That reminds me, I also drilled several 2" holes top and bottom.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #43 on: April 18, 2017, 07:30:16 PM »
Fridge delivered by Lowes today. They called this AM to say running late due to early heavy rain, traffic and a full schedule. (Strike one) I said it was going in a motorhome. They replied they never did that before and probably wouldn't be able to but at least would look at it. (Strike two). Arrived an hour later than planned. (Foul ball). I explained what was involved and offered 30 bucks apiece. That got their attention. Took off the doors, and water manifold for the ice maker to squeeze it through. They even put it all back together once inside. No dings or damage. (Home run!) Money well spent. Nice couple of guys.
Thanks to whoever posted suggesting greasing the delivery guys palms. 😄
Starting carpentry work tomorrow.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #44 on: April 19, 2017, 06:29:32 AM »
...thanks to whoever posted suggesting greasing the delivery guys palms. ..
You're welcome  :D.

You are generous, I gave the Lowe's guys 20 bucks each but I had to reassemble the fridge. Glad that all worked out for you.
--John
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #45 on: April 19, 2017, 08:02:07 AM »
I thought that was you John, but wasn't sure.
I remember reading 20 bucks, but you've had yours installed for quite a while now.
Inflation.... 
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #46 on: April 25, 2017, 09:58:24 PM »
Back to work on the project...
Sort of over-built the base framing.
The maple plywood fits perfectly. So far, all measurements are on the nuts..

For those about to tackle this project - I presume all these old Nocolds have the "garden hose" fitting for the ice maker water line.
I was all set to cut the water line, remove the garden hose fitting, and insert a new ferrule and 1/4" brass fitting to attach to the new fridge ice maker solenoid.
On closer examination, you just need to remove the garden hose adapter, leaving the standard size coupling that fits into the new fridge solenoid.
Easy-peezy.

Next step is to have a friend help me hoist the fridge into the opening so I can mark the spots on the platform where I can bolt the fridge in. Then pull it back out so I can drill the securing bolt holes and attach and stain the trim pieces.

Keeping fingers crossed that I haven't missed anything! I'm finding this is not a horribly complex project, but it does require a lot of thinking and planning (at least for me) since no two situations are exactly identical there are no standardized instructions.
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kdbgoat

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #47 on: April 26, 2017, 06:11:27 AM »

Next step is to have a friend help me hoist the fridge into the opening so I can mark the spots on the platform where I can bolt the fridge in. Then pull it back out so I can drill the securing bolt holes and attach and stain the trim pieces.


Can you just sit the fridge on a piece of cardboard and make a template for the base and another piece of cardboard for any other places you need to bolt? Just trying to save some heavy lifting and lessen the possibility of something happening doing the lift twice.
I know you believe you understand what you think I said,
But I am not sure you realize what you heard is not what I meant


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kjansen

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #48 on: April 26, 2017, 07:06:19 AM »
Bob, Have you considered insulating the side walls.  It may help keep the frig cooler and there by having to work less and use less battery power if working off the inverter.
Keven Jansen
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #49 on: April 26, 2017, 07:08:42 AM »
Looks like you're closing in on completing the project!

I just have screws in my fridge base but there is a block of trim on top of the fridge that keeps it secure. That top trim block keeps the fridge from moving side to side and fire and aft.  So far it has worked fine like this for probably 25,000 miles of travel.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #50 on: April 26, 2017, 08:30:58 AM »
Can you just sit the fridge on a piece of cardboard and make a template for the base and another piece of cardboard for any other places you need to bolt? Just trying to save some heavy lifting and lessen the possibility of something happening doing the lift twice.

(Forehead slap...)  Why didn't I think of that!
Thank you
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #51 on: April 26, 2017, 08:36:30 AM »
Bob, Have you considered insulating the side walls.  It may help keep the frig cooler and there by having to work less and use less battery power if working off the inverter.

I'll have to look into this Keven.
I'm concerned about proper ventilation. Not sure how much energy this would save but if it helps it's worth it.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #52 on: April 26, 2017, 09:12:04 AM »
I'm following your project with keen interest Bob. Not that I need to tackle this myself, but after having my first residential refer in my last rig I am convinced that it was the best change since sliced bread.  Looks like you are doing an excellent job, keep it up!
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #53 on: April 29, 2017, 10:07:20 PM »
I'm pleased with the results....
#11 & 13 - trim pieces attached to  sides.
#14 finished
I was able to cut the paneling in half for the lower portion. I attached it with Velcro in case I need to access the bottom in the future.
Now just waiting for a couple of beastly mountain men to hoist the fridge in the opening.
Any local takers?   :) :)
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #54 on: April 30, 2017, 07:28:07 AM »
Looking good. Are you going to put some of that iron-on banding on the bottom plywood?
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #55 on: April 30, 2017, 09:53:00 AM »
Looking good. Are you going to put some of that iron-on banding on the bottom plywood?

Yes! The local big box stores don't seem to carry it. Where did you get yours?
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #56 on: April 30, 2017, 11:31:15 AM »
Our Lowe's carries the banding where they have a small selection of hardwoods. Not sure if HD carries them. I needed some 2" banding for a project and I had to get that off the Internet.

If you find the banding, look to see if they have a little plastic banding trimmer hanging up nearby. It's a neat (and cheap) tool to run along the banding and trim off the excess (the banding is wider than the plywood edge. The alternative is to use a knife of some sort but you have to be really careful when trimming.

Oh, be sure and use plenty of heat to melt the adhesive and check with the boss before using her iron  :).
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #57 on: April 30, 2017, 12:42:08 PM »
I just stopped by my local Lowes.
They didn't have it but recommended a contractors supply store that has everything needed.
"Holdahl Company"
I'll visit them tomorrow.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #58 on: April 30, 2017, 02:52:32 PM »
Bob

Fleet Farm carries it and so does Menards.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #59 on: May 05, 2017, 09:42:22 PM »
Took the day off to finish this project.
Found maple edge banding at Menards. (Thanks for that tip).
Also cut some aluminum L angles to help keep the fridge secure. (pic 15)
Overall, very pleased with the results. (pic 16)
We'll see how it holds up on a trip in a couple of weeks.
Couldn't have done it without y'all...... :D
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #60 on: May 05, 2017, 10:56:18 PM »
Looks real nice Bob. I hope you came up with a way to hold your doors shut while motoring down the road. If you don't, you'll liable to end up with your breakfast all ready prepared for the next morning. Scrambled eggs.
 ;D :D ;)

One thing I just noticed while looking at you pictures again, (picture 14) I would recommend you put a radius on the two corners of the plywood where it sticks out. It looks awfully sharp and it will do a number on your leg if you walk into it.  Mama won't be happy either if she walks into it. You could do it easily even with the fridge installed using a belt sander.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #61 on: May 06, 2017, 06:56:15 AM »
Took the day off to finish this project.
Found maple edge banding at Menards. (Thanks for that tip)...
Looks very nice, good job Bob. Rene has a point (pun intended) about that sharp corner. If there's a chance to run into it, you can knock the corner down at a 45* angle and put the banding on. I like your maple interior, keeps the interior light and airy looking. My cherry interior has really darkened over the years.
--John
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #62 on: May 06, 2017, 08:24:07 AM »
Thank you!
Hmm.. I just don't see how we'll be running into the corners. I might be wrong. We'll give it some time and see how it goes.

For securing the doors while rolling, I'll use a simple Velcro tie strip for now. Other projects are on the list.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #63 on: May 11, 2017, 04:47:10 PM »
Looks good Bob. I am still finishing my install - Course having the motorhome in the shop for two months slowed me down some.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #64 on: May 11, 2017, 06:34:38 PM »
I feel your pain Mickey..
Even though I enjoy my work, it becomes a nuisance when I'd rather be tinkering with the motorhome....
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #65 on: May 12, 2017, 02:44:48 AM »
Looks really nice Bob. Nice workmanship. I hope you enjoy yours as much as we do ours.

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #66 on: May 12, 2017, 07:31:59 AM »
Thank you !
We'll be taking it out on our first fridge test run next week.
When we arrive at our destination, I'm hopeful the fridge will be in the same place as when we left.  ;D
The queen doesn't want to be running to the bedroom to get the dinner fixins.....  :o
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #67 on: May 23, 2017, 08:01:31 PM »
Successful trip with new fridge.
Should have done this a long time ago.
Interestingly, this particular model does not need to have the doors secured while rolling.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #68 on: May 24, 2017, 12:15:45 AM »
Outstanding Bob! But I'm not sure I would trust the doors going around a 360 degree freeway ramp on a bumpy Ca road.
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #69 on: May 24, 2017, 07:33:23 AM »
Outstanding Bob! But I'm not sure I would trust the doors going around a 360 degree freeway ramp on a bumpy Ca road.
... and add in a casserole dish that decides to push on the door in the turn ... been there ... big mess!
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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #70 on: May 24, 2017, 09:40:20 AM »
Interestingly, this particular model does not need to have the doors secured while rolling.
Yeah, my fridge doors stay closed too Bob. Now the bottom freezer door... that's another story. >:(

Kev
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