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Author Topic: Norcold to residential fridge project  (Read 3438 times)

catblaster

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #30 on: April 07, 2017, 07:55:49 AM »
The dude is correct!!! 8)

While the dude is correct, it does not hurt to put just a slight amount on the BACK side of the flare or threads to reduce friction, it just helps tighten them up a hair more. The sealing surface gets nothing.
Will and Jane
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #31 on: April 07, 2017, 08:37:14 AM »
Too late...
I wrenched it in, turned the gas on and stuck the end in a glass of water to make sure.
There's about 2 feet of line sticking out from the floor. Gonna strap the line down so it's not bouncing.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #32 on: April 07, 2017, 08:40:01 AM »
Going to need some trim pieces. Anyone match up Winnie's "washed maple" woodgrain? I assume poplar would be the best choice to match with some type of minwax.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #33 on: April 08, 2017, 07:17:55 AM »
Poplar is a good secondary wood but it's difficult to find a clear board with no green areas. I used it as temporary trim around my fridge until I could replace it with cherry wood.

You might be able to do some kind of wash to get it to sorta kinda look like maple but it will take a bit of experimenting. Having said that, I only use poplar where it doesn't show, it's just too difficult to stain it to match a hardwood.

About Minwax - avoid the combo stain varnish, I have never had good luck with a coating like that. The problem is you might need to apply several applications of a stain (or mix a custom stain) to get the look you want. With the combo stain-varnish you basically get the stain color shown on the can (depending on what wood you use.)

I would use genuine maple for your trim. If you don't have a local hardwood source, there are suppliers that can ship.

Just thought of another idea, you could use a veneer over the poplar, that would be a bit of work but it would be less expensive than real maple.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2017, 07:20:06 AM by John Canfield »
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NoMoreAZ

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #34 on: April 08, 2017, 05:47:53 PM »
Yes, please. I would be very interested.
As promised...

The instructions are listed in numbered sequence. If I do this it this way is easier for me to follow. Considering your UID on the forum, the numbers at the start of each step have been adjusted accordingly.


This travel latch installation was installed on a Frigidaire LGHT1837N F, top freezer model.

0000) Obtain 2 ea. drawer/cabinet latching assemblies, (AKA push latch, drawer catch assy). Latches used here are ‘beefier’ than the ones normally found in cabinet drawers, at least in our case. The adjustable portion of the latch in our cabinets is 2.125” long. For the refrigerator it is 2.8125 “ long and thicker. This helps bridge the gap between the refrigerator door(s) and the added strip. The latches are a generic item.

0001) Obtain a piece of hard wood, a good choice would be cabinet moulding. Cut to fit to 1.4375” H, 15.5” W, and 0.375 Thick. Height is critical so the doors do not rub on the strip. Note the angled cut on the right side of the wood strip.

0010) Drill three (3) thru holes in the wood, matching the three (3) left most (assuming hinges of refrigerator on right) screws that exist in the cabinet between the refrigerator and freezer doors.

0011) Obtain three (3) new screws, same diameter, and longer length to account for added wood strip.

0100) Paint all 6 sides of the wood to match the area where the wood strip is to be installed. Paint back side of wood because of temperature and moisture in area when opening and closing doors.

0101) Attach wood strip with the three (3) new screws. If you determine that the right portion of the strip is too loose or may move after time, a small amount of appropriate adhesive may be used. Consider the porosity of the two materials when choosing the adhesive.

0110) Mount latches as shown. Adjustable portion on wood strip, non-adjustable portion on doors.

0111) Perform necessary adjustments.


We have not had any problems with this latching method. Fine tuned the adjustments, twice I think, in the 4.5 years the unit has been in the coach.

I did not make any new holes in the refrigerator cabinet. This is good because one does always know what a manufacturer puts where! Only new holes are in the doors. Since there is no water lines, ice cube chutes, 4 port routers with Wi-Fi, cameras, TVs, horoscope predictors, etc. in the doors of this model the new holes should not be a problem.

Hope this works for you.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2017, 06:35:57 PM by NoMoreAZ »
NoMoreAZ
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #35 on: April 08, 2017, 07:19:12 PM »
That looks like the Cadillac of latching systems.
Not sure how the board thickness doesn't interfere with closing, but I'll have a better idea once the fridge is delivered.
Thanks for the detailed instructions.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #36 on: April 08, 2017, 07:40:49 PM »
Poplar is a good secondary wood but it's difficult to find a clear board with no green areas. I used it as temporary trim around my fridge until I could replace it with cherry wood.

You might be able to do some kind of wash to get it to sorta kinda look like maple but it will take a bit of experimenting. Having said that, I only use poplar where it doesn't show, it's just too difficult to stain it to match a hardwood.

About Minwax - avoid the combo stain varnish, I have never had good luck with a coating like that. The problem is you might need to apply several applications of a stain (or mix a custom stain) to get the look you want. With the combo stain-varnish you basically get the stain color shown on the can (depending on what wood you use.)

I would use genuine maple for your trim. If you don't have a local hardwood source, there are suppliers that can ship.

Just thought of another idea, you could use a veneer over the poplar, that would be a bit of work but it would be less expensive than real maple.

I'm not much of a wood worker. I read somewhere that poplar is a popular stain matching wood since it's so light.
From your advice, I picked up some maple at a local Rockler store. Good move.
After considerable experimenting, I found a match for the Winnie/Itasca "washed maple" finish:

Two coats of minwax #209 (Natural), applied liberally and let soak in for 15 minutes before removing excess.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #37 on: April 09, 2017, 07:25:34 AM »
...From your advice, I picked up some maple at a local Rockler store. Good move.  After considerable experimenting, I found a match for the Winnie/Itasca "washed maple" finish:
Most excellent! You just saved yourself a bunch of time and trouble by using maple instead of poplar. Birch is a great wood for staining, I used some 1/8" birch plywood for some interior projects and stained to match our cherry.
--John
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BRex

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #38 on: April 12, 2017, 11:50:09 PM »


How are you allowing for the waste heat from the refrigerator condenser to escape? When I changed out the defunct Dometic in a 2001 Rexhall I too sealed the vent behind the fridge but left the rooftop vent open so there could be a natural path for the heat off the condenser. By leaving the vent open I felt that less heat was being introduced into the RV and we mostly use the rig in the summer.
I can feel heat rising from the back of our house fridge as it goes up the back and under the overhead cupboard. Same idea.

I will be interested in responses as I am thinking of dumping the Dometic RM7732 in our current coach.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #39 on: April 13, 2017, 07:12:54 AM »
The replacement fridge will have specifications for free space required around it for adequate ventilation, I have at least three inches all around the fridge box. My compressor and condenser coil are lower rear of the fridge and it draws probably most ventilation from the bottom. At any rate, I think we installed our residential fridge about five years ago and it works just fine.
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #40 on: April 13, 2017, 07:33:00 AM »
My compressor is also in the back at the bottom.
Planning about the same gaps as you John, except the back of the fridge will be fairly close to the wall.
Plenty of ventilation coming up from under the new floor base.

Short break on the project. Fridge will be delivered Tuesday. Just need to cut the front wood trim and build the floor base.
I'm hesitant to proceed further until I have the fridge for actual measurements.
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afchap

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #41 on: April 13, 2017, 09:59:09 AM »
Mine can pull air under the bottom front and through holes I drilled in the "floor" of the compartment. I also have 3 small vents in the trim across the top front that are not visible unless you are really tall. I can feel a bit of heat from them sometimes.  (The top trim and right side trim have Velcro and are mounted tight against the fridge. And I did leave the roof vent alone.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #42 on: April 14, 2017, 06:26:36 AM »
Mine can pull air under the bottom front and through holes I drilled in the "floor" of the compartment. ...
That reminds me, I also drilled several 2" holes top and bottom.
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #43 on: April 18, 2017, 07:30:16 PM »
Fridge delivered by Lowes today. They called this AM to say running late due to early heavy rain, traffic and a full schedule. (Strike one) I said it was going in a motorhome. They replied they never did that before and probably wouldn't be able to but at least would look at it. (Strike two). Arrived an hour later than planned. (Foul ball). I explained what was involved and offered 30 bucks apiece. That got their attention. Took off the doors, and water manifold for the ice maker to squeeze it through. They even put it all back together once inside. No dings or damage. (Home run!) Money well spent. Nice couple of guys.
Thanks to whoever posted suggesting greasing the delivery guys palms. 😄
Starting carpentry work tomorrow.
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #44 on: April 19, 2017, 06:29:32 AM »
...thanks to whoever posted suggesting greasing the delivery guys palms. ..
You're welcome  :D.

You are generous, I gave the Lowe's guys 20 bucks each but I had to reassemble the fridge. Glad that all worked out for you.
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #45 on: April 19, 2017, 08:02:07 AM »
I thought that was you John, but wasn't sure.
I remember reading 20 bucks, but you've had yours installed for quite a while now.
Inflation.... 
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #46 on: April 25, 2017, 09:58:24 PM »
Back to work on the project...
Sort of over-built the base framing.
The maple plywood fits perfectly. So far, all measurements are on the nuts..

For those about to tackle this project - I presume all these old Nocolds have the "garden hose" fitting for the ice maker water line.
I was all set to cut the water line, remove the garden hose fitting, and insert a new ferrule and 1/4" brass fitting to attach to the new fridge ice maker solenoid.
On closer examination, you just need to remove the garden hose adapter, leaving the standard size coupling that fits into the new fridge solenoid.
Easy-peezy.

Next step is to have a friend help me hoist the fridge into the opening so I can mark the spots on the platform where I can bolt the fridge in. Then pull it back out so I can drill the securing bolt holes and attach and stain the trim pieces.

Keeping fingers crossed that I haven't missed anything! I'm finding this is not a horribly complex project, but it does require a lot of thinking and planning (at least for me) since no two situations are exactly identical there are no standardized instructions.
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kdbgoat

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #47 on: April 26, 2017, 06:11:27 AM »

Next step is to have a friend help me hoist the fridge into the opening so I can mark the spots on the platform where I can bolt the fridge in. Then pull it back out so I can drill the securing bolt holes and attach and stain the trim pieces.


Can you just sit the fridge on a piece of cardboard and make a template for the base and another piece of cardboard for any other places you need to bolt? Just trying to save some heavy lifting and lessen the possibility of something happening doing the lift twice.
I know you believe you understand what you think I said,
But I am not sure you realize what you heard is not what I meant


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kjansen

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #48 on: April 26, 2017, 07:06:19 AM »
Bob, Have you considered insulating the side walls.  It may help keep the frig cooler and there by having to work less and use less battery power if working off the inverter.
Keven Jansen
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #49 on: April 26, 2017, 07:08:42 AM »
Looks like you're closing in on completing the project!

I just have screws in my fridge base but there is a block of trim on top of the fridge that keeps it secure. That top trim block keeps the fridge from moving side to side and fire and aft.  So far it has worked fine like this for probably 25,000 miles of travel.
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #50 on: April 26, 2017, 08:30:58 AM »
Can you just sit the fridge on a piece of cardboard and make a template for the base and another piece of cardboard for any other places you need to bolt? Just trying to save some heavy lifting and lessen the possibility of something happening doing the lift twice.

(Forehead slap...)  Why didn't I think of that!
Thank you
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #51 on: April 26, 2017, 08:36:30 AM »
Bob, Have you considered insulating the side walls.  It may help keep the frig cooler and there by having to work less and use less battery power if working off the inverter.

I'll have to look into this Keven.
I'm concerned about proper ventilation. Not sure how much energy this would save but if it helps it's worth it.
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SargeW

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #52 on: April 26, 2017, 09:12:04 AM »
I'm following your project with keen interest Bob. Not that I need to tackle this myself, but after having my first residential refer in my last rig I am convinced that it was the best change since sliced bread.  Looks like you are doing an excellent job, keep it up!
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #53 on: April 29, 2017, 10:07:20 PM »
I'm pleased with the results....
#11 & 13 - trim pieces attached to  sides.
#14 finished
I was able to cut the paneling in half for the lower portion. I attached it with Velcro in case I need to access the bottom in the future.
Now just waiting for a couple of beastly mountain men to hoist the fridge in the opening.
Any local takers?   :) :)
2004 Itasca Suncruiser 37B

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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #54 on: April 30, 2017, 07:28:07 AM »
Looking good. Are you going to put some of that iron-on banding on the bottom plywood?
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #55 on: April 30, 2017, 09:53:00 AM »
Looking good. Are you going to put some of that iron-on banding on the bottom plywood?

Yes! The local big box stores don't seem to carry it. Where did you get yours?
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John Canfield

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #56 on: April 30, 2017, 11:31:15 AM »
Our Lowe's carries the banding where they have a small selection of hardwoods. Not sure if HD carries them. I needed some 2" banding for a project and I had to get that off the Internet.

If you find the banding, look to see if they have a little plastic banding trimmer hanging up nearby. It's a neat (and cheap) tool to run along the banding and trim off the excess (the banding is wider than the plywood edge. The alternative is to use a knife of some sort but you have to be really careful when trimming.

Oh, be sure and use plenty of heat to melt the adhesive and check with the boss before using her iron  :).
--John
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #57 on: April 30, 2017, 12:42:08 PM »
I just stopped by my local Lowes.
They didn't have it but recommended a contractors supply store that has everything needed.
"Holdahl Company"
I'll visit them tomorrow.
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kjansen

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #58 on: April 30, 2017, 02:52:32 PM »
Bob

Fleet Farm carries it and so does Menards.
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BinaryBob

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Re: Norcold to residential fridge project
« Reply #59 on: May 05, 2017, 09:42:22 PM »
Took the day off to finish this project.
Found maple edge banding at Menards. (Thanks for that tip).
Also cut some aluminum L angles to help keep the fridge secure. (pic 15)
Overall, very pleased with the results. (pic 16)
We'll see how it holds up on a trip in a couple of weeks.
Couldn't have done it without y'all...... :D
2004 Itasca Suncruiser 37B

"Every hobby perpetuates its arcane mysteries. How else would we impress the newbies with our superior knowledge?"
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