I have a 2008 Keystone Cougar 29FKS. I ran out of propane yesterday morning and swapped out the tanks. Since then I haven't been able to get the furnaces to run. I have a Duo Therm 3107541 & 3107546 Analog thermostat. I can hear the switch click at the thermostat and also at the furness. About 20-30 seconds later I can hear another click at the furness but nothing happens. No blower, no heat. The A/C & blower work fine when in A/C mode. I've never have a single problem before with this unit. I've checked all the breakers and fuses but that's about the limit to my ability......
Furness help
- Thread starter hjimn2lwc
- Start date
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Alfa38User
Well-known member
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The A/C blower is not the same blower as the furnace. The A/C blowers work from 120V and are part of the air conditioner whereas the the furnace blower is 12V DC (batteries) and is completely controlled by the furnace itself and the house 12V batteries/converter.
(As an FYI, the "fan" setting on the thermostat controls ONLY the A/C blower, and NOT the furnace fan!)
Check your house batteries for charge. The clicking you hear from the furnace itself is a good sign indicating there may be 12V present but.... the fan requires a lot of current (i.e. well charged batteries) and if the fan does not run, then the furnace will not attempt to light.
(Once you get the fan operating at full speed, remember that if a failure to light occurs, the furnace will be locked out until the furnace heat selection on the thermostat is turned off for a few minutes and allowing the furnace to reset before attempting a second lighting. Donn's advise above is well founded in order to eliminate any air in the propane lines that can cause a no-light problem.)
There is a furnace trouble shooting write-up in the library here that may help sort this out for you!!!
http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=333:furnace-troubleshooting&catid=16&Itemid=132
(As an FYI, the "fan" setting on the thermostat controls ONLY the A/C blower, and NOT the furnace fan!)
Check your house batteries for charge. The clicking you hear from the furnace itself is a good sign indicating there may be 12V present but.... the fan requires a lot of current (i.e. well charged batteries) and if the fan does not run, then the furnace will not attempt to light.
(Once you get the fan operating at full speed, remember that if a failure to light occurs, the furnace will be locked out until the furnace heat selection on the thermostat is turned off for a few minutes and allowing the furnace to reset before attempting a second lighting. Donn's advise above is well founded in order to eliminate any air in the propane lines that can cause a no-light problem.)
There is a furnace trouble shooting write-up in the library here that may help sort this out for you!!!
http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=333:furnace-troubleshooting&catid=16&Itemid=132
Thanks.....
I did purge the lines by lighting the stove and burning it until the flames went out....
Stu, I'm a little lost and new to this. I have 1 deep cycle battery that was pulled in November and is still in the house. I pulled it out in November but continued to stay in the camper until mid December. I've moved back in here two weeks ago and this whole time I've been using the furness and it was working great until yesterday morning when the propane ran out. I swapped out the tanks with two new 20lb tanks as my new 30lb tanks haven't been delivered yet. Seems like it has to be something simple. Who knows.......
I did purge the lines by lighting the stove and burning it until the flames went out....
Stu, I'm a little lost and new to this. I have 1 deep cycle battery that was pulled in November and is still in the house. I pulled it out in November but continued to stay in the camper until mid December. I've moved back in here two weeks ago and this whole time I've been using the furness and it was working great until yesterday morning when the propane ran out. I swapped out the tanks with two new 20lb tanks as my new 30lb tanks haven't been delivered yet. Seems like it has to be something simple. Who knows.......
hjimn2lwc said:
I don't understand that statement. It sounds like you burnt out whatever gas was in the lines to the stove, but the flames went out when the slug of air in the lines reached the stove.
Anyway, try turning off the tanks and bleed off the pressure using the kitchen stove. Turn off the kitchen stove, then SLOWLY open each tank. If you open the tank valves too quickly, the safeties in the tank sense this as a big leak, and shut down the gas flow. Then turn on the gas at the kitchen stove and make sure each burner lights correctly. After each burner lights, then try the furnace again.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Please review my Furnace Troubleshooting article in the RVForum Library at http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Furnace_Trouble-2.pdf
It should be helpful for this sort of thing.
The furnace requires both 12v power (no 120vac) and propane to work. The 12v can come from either battery or the 12v converter/charger (which does run off shore power), but one must be present for the furnace fan to run and burner to light. If the 12v power is inadequate (voltage is low), the furnace fan won't spin fast enough and the furnace will not attempt to light.
Since you hear a click at the t-stat and at the furnace, the problem appears to be at the furnace end. If the furnace fan doesn't run at all, the problem is the fan itself or 12v power to it. If the furnace fan runs but the igniter doesn't spark, the fan is turning too slow, usually meaning low voltage on the furnace 12v feed.
It should be helpful for this sort of thing.
The furnace requires both 12v power (no 120vac) and propane to work. The 12v can come from either battery or the 12v converter/charger (which does run off shore power), but one must be present for the furnace fan to run and burner to light. If the 12v power is inadequate (voltage is low), the furnace fan won't spin fast enough and the furnace will not attempt to light.
Since you hear a click at the t-stat and at the furnace, the problem appears to be at the furnace end. If the furnace fan doesn't run at all, the problem is the fan itself or 12v power to it. If the furnace fan runs but the igniter doesn't spark, the fan is turning too slow, usually meaning low voltage on the furnace 12v feed.
robertusa123
Well-known member
The furnace locked out when the burner failed to light sever times. You need to power it down to reset the control board
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I agree with the other poster.. If you let 'em burn till the flame went OUT.. You are out of gas.. (That would take a long time)hjimn2lwc said:
Air in the lines is much over-talked about. Now when a motor home is brand new (or Trailer) and the propane has NEVER been used.. THEN there is air in the lines,, but once you open the valve and get a fire going on the cooktop. or in the furnace.. You should never have enough air in the lines to cause a problem with the Furnace or water heater.. Fridge... perhaps.. but not the Furnace or water heater.
These are both HUGH consumers of Propane (Compared to the other users in the RV) both give it 3 tries before they toss in the towel (NOTE: DSI models, Pilot light models are .... A bit different,, but till the air is gone you won't get the pilot lit).
And by the 2nd try any air in the line should be his, I mean his, I mean HISTORY!!!
robertusa123 said:
robertusa123
When you say "power it down" I assume you mean "disconnect the 12V power momentarily"?
My Suberban furnace locks out after 3 unsuccessful attempts at ignition.... removing and reinserting the 12V furnace fuse resets the board, (and allows another 3 attempts).
As John From Detroit said in message #8.... by the 2nd reset the propane line should be purged of air and the furnace should fire and operate normally.
Sorry guys. Had to go in for another surgery and getting ready to start this whole process all over again. As far as purging the lines; what i've done was shut off the tanks and then disconnected the lines. I then went inside and burned off all the propane out of the stove. Correct or no? I then hooked everything back up and slowly opened up the valves but no luck as of yet........
Sorry guys. Had to go in for another surgery and getting ready to start this whole process all over again. As far as purging the lines; what i've done was shut off the tanks and then disconnected the lines. I then went inside and burned off all the propane out of the stove. Correct or no? I then hooked everything back up and slowly opened up the valves but no luck as of yet........
Totally WRONG!
With the gas tanks turned on and the selector on the regulator in the right position, go inside and light a stove top burner. Let it burn for a minute or so, turn off, try starting the furnace. All you have accomplished so far is to draw air into the gas lines.
With the gas tanks turned on and the selector on the regulator in the right position, go inside and light a stove top burner. Let it burn for a minute or so, turn off, try starting the furnace. All you have accomplished so far is to draw air into the gas lines.
hjimn2lwc said:
hjimn2lwc
The propane lines must be CONNECTED when you purge the propane system of air.
Because you "disconnected the lines" you will have to first re-connect those lines BEFORE you can purge the air from your propane system/lines.
Then, (with all of the lines CONNECTED):
1.) Slowly and fully open the supply valve on the propane tank.
2.) Light the cook top burners and allow them to burn for a minute or two.
3.) Start and fun the propane furnace, (and/or the propane water heater if there's water in it).
Rene T
Site Team
It is very critical that you open the valve on the tank slowly. Some tanks have valves which will shut off the propane if it senses a huge movement of propane like maybe a broken line.
