City water input - check valve?

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Dougie Brown

Dougie Brown

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Joined
Nov 16, 2007
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Is there a check valve between the incoming hose connector and the PEX pipes?  I ask because when incoming water pressure is good, the output in the coach is inconsistent but at best, mediocre. This has happened at three different campgrounds in the last week; the tank flush pressure is unaffected.  The access to what feels like a brass check valve is extremely limited plus it's lousy wet weather at the moment, so before I start the contortions, I thought I'd ask. Thanks.

PS: it's not a filter issue because I'm running without one currently.

Dougie.
 
YES!! It is built into the hose connection for city water in most cases. May be equipped with a screen as well.
 
Yay. Thanks for that. It does have a screen which I replace periodically.  That sucker's being converted to an ex-check valve by means of a drill then as I have a manual valve permanently installed before the connector.

Dougie.
 
Dougie Brown said:
Yay. Thanks for that. It does have a screen which I replace periodically.  That sucker's being converted to an ex-check valve by means of a drill then as I have a manual valve permanently installed before the connector.

Dougie.
Click to expand...

Dougie, if you do that with a drill, you'll find out real quick why there's a check valve there. It's to prevent water from coming out that line when you're using the onboard water pump. 
 
As I mentioned, I have a manual valve on a connector before the main one which is always closed when city water is disconnected. I won't be sticking a drill into it anyways without disconnecting the PEX as I don't fancy picking metal shavings out my coffee.
 
Dougie Brown said:
Yay. Thanks for that. It does have a screen which I replace periodically.  That sucker's being converted to an ex-check valve by means of a drill then as I have a manual valve permanently installed before the connector.

Dougie.
Click to expand...

X2.

I was able to gut the check valve, spring and retainer.. from it's back end by just pushing them all out, from the front.

I also use a (90*) manual shut off valve.. external to the connection bib.

Can now REALY RINCE OFF the shower soap, REALY RINCE my razor.. and fill the coffee pot in half the time. DW likes being able to fill the sinks faster too.

(I've removed the re-stricter discs from all the faucets, and shower head also)

Life Is Good(er)
 
BIG JOE said:
X2. I was able to gut the check valve from the back side, and I also use a (90*) manual shut off valve.. external to the connection bib.

Can now REALY RINCE OFF in the shower, REALY RINCE my razor.. and fill the coffee pot in half the time.
Click to expand...

Joe, it made that much difference?  If it did, I just may do it too.
 
I tried removing the pressure regulator while I was there just to see what happened. WOW. But I put it back as I fitted it for a reason. :)

Dougie.
 
Dougie Brown said:
I tried removing the pressure regulator while I was there just to see what happened. WOW. But I put it back as I fitted it for a reason. :)Dougie.
Click to expand...

Same Here Dougie. My regulator is set @ 55psi. We were at a park last week where the psi was 90.. glad it's on there.

Rene T said:
Joe, it made that much difference?  If it did, I just may do it too.
Click to expand...

Yes it does make a noticeable difference Rene. On a Good, Better, Best scale.. I would say it's: Much, Much Better.

As far as doing this Mod.. The ease of doing it will depend on the Brand & Style of City Water connection your manufacture used. And where it at, in relation to the work involved.

Some, I've been able to just Pull the check valve assembly out with a pair of needle nose pliers, Some (like mine) I've had to get behind the connection panel, remove the gland nut, to remove the assembly. Some, I've had to Replace the whole connection part.. with one that can be gutted (for lack of a better word).

IMO.. It's doable & worth doing. 
 
Thanks Joe.
The threads on my hose fitting aren't the best in the world and I'm been thinking about replacing that fitting. It's on my TO DO List now.

I'm using one of these now so it should work good in place of the check valve:

https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-03V-Garden-Connector-Shut-Off/dp/B0006U66B6
 
Dougie Brown said:
Rene, that'll work.Dougie.
Click to expand...

Yep, X2.

FWIW.. My city water connection is Horizontal, to the Vertical.. so I used one of those valves that is on a 90. Then one like you linked, on the end of the RV hose... with a brass Quik Disconnect set up.. to connect the two. (WalMart)

No threading, No Leaks, No Drips, No Spraying, No Pliers. Connect the QD.. turn on both valves.. dun deal.

 
 
BIG JOE said:
Yep, X2.

FWIW.. My city water connection is Horizontal, to the Vertical.. so I used one of those valves that is on a 90. Then one like you linked, on the end of the RV hose... with a brass Quik Disconnect set up.. to connect the two. (WalMart)

No threading, No Leaks, No Drips, No Spraying, No Pliers. Connect the QD.. turn on both valves.. dun deal.
Click to expand...

Be careful with some of those so called brass QD. I bought some from a Home Depot a few years ago. After using them for a while, the finish started to peel off and they started to pit. They were aluminum and plated with brass. Nothing but junk.
 
Rene T said:
Be careful with some of those so called brass QD. I bought some from a Home Depot a few years ago. After using them for a while, the finish started to peel off and they started to pit. They were aluminum and plated with brass. Nothing but junk.
Click to expand...

Good point. I've never had, or seen that.. but will keep a close eye out for it.

Thanks
 
So during this last week after removing the check valve and noting the initial good increase, the pressure has reverted to what it was. Hot or cold, when a faucet is turned on or the toilet flushed, the initial flow of water is normal but after less than a second, drops by about 40%. I've changed the hoses, fitted a new screen filter at the main connection where the check valve was, and stopped using a filter. No difference. It's back to mediocre.

Any more ideas?

Dougie.
 
Dougie Brown said:
So during this last week after removing the check valve and noting the initial good increase, the pressure has reverted to what it was. Hot or cold, when a faucet is turned on or the toilet flushed, the initial flow of water is normal but after less than a second, drops by about 40%. I've changed the hoses, fitted a new screen filter at the main connection where the check valve was, and stopped using a filter. No difference. It's back to mediocre.

Any more ideas?

Dougie.
Click to expand...

I think what you are seeing is: The flow goes back to what seems "Normal".. because of possibly Low water pressure, verses RV plumbing diameter capacity.

No more ideas Dougie but here's my thinking on the whole RV Water Flow deal:

Bearing in mind, we are limited to 3/8ths, maybe 5/16ths Plumbing/Water lines on most RV's.. and [most] Park, CG water pressure is at 40~50 psi max.. which can greatly effect GPM flow capacity.. I eliminate as many restrictive components as possible.

What I've done, and do:

1. Removed ALL faucet/shower head flow restrictor disks.

2. Removed the back flow/check valve assembly from the City/Dry camping hose connection.

3. Drill out ALL the faucet aerators to 1/4 inch (+ if possible) , or modified* them for better flow.

4. Use O ring style washers on ALL (5/8ths) hose connections. No flat washers, No screen washers.

5. Use the Shortest** hose possible.. from the Park/CG hose bib.. to the Rig.

*  use twist drills, to enlarge the holes in the aerator assemblies.. yet still have some aeration.

** cut a 50' RV hose in to 25', 15', and 10' lengths.. use the shortest one.

The above, IJMO, gets me.. to git to.. as good as it CAN get ?
 
 
I think our plumbing lines are 3/8". I removed all fixture restrictors when our coach was new primarily because the water pump could not keep a low flow going without pulsing.
 
John Canfield said:
I think our plumbing lines are 3/8". I removed all fixture restrictors when our coach was new primarily because the water pump could not keep a low flow going without pulsing.
Click to expand...

True, I clarified that. (most RV's ?)

Naturally, I find that Park/CG's with Higher water pressures, I get Higher delivery at all the fixtures. Kind of a "Duh".. but worth a mention ?

I also have an adjustable pressure regulator, set @ 55 psi (normal S & B pressure ?) for.. just in case.

(We were at a Park the other week that had 90 psi.. at the hose bib !)
 
Dougie Brown said:
Is there a check valve between the incoming hose connector and the PEX pipes?  I ask because when incoming water pressure is good, the output in the coach is inconsistent but at best, mediocre. This has happened at three different campgrounds in the last week; the tank flush pressure is unaffected.  The access to what feels like a brass check valve is extremely limited plus it's lousy wet weather at the moment, so before I start the contortions, I thought I'd ask. Thanks.

PS: it's not a filter issue because I'm running without one currently.

Dougie.
Click to expand...

Dougie Brown
On my coach there is not only a "check valve" in the water entry ... there is also a "screen" and a "pressure regulator".
If I put another pressure regulator in the hose the water pressure in my coach drops way to low...(to the point of being pretty much useless).
 
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