Fiberglass roof

Is there anything you have to do for the fiberglass roofs on a Winnebago as far as maintenance and cleaning?

As far as the fiberglass itself, wash it once in awhile to keep it looking nice. Might need a new coat of paint after 10 years or so.

However, the edges and around openings (skylights, antennas, etc) are no different than any other roof material. Still needs annual inspection and an occasional touch-up with lap sealant (caulk) to prevent leaks.

What model and year of Winnebago?

a new coat of Paint ? 
my 17 year old fiberglass roof is still the original gel-coat,  the same as the sides,  and all I've ever done is wash and wax it.

Wouldn't that be like painting a Bass Boat... ???

Winnebago doesn't paint the roofs, just the edge on full body paint.  The roof is just gelcoat so be sure to change wax to fiberglass on top vs automotive on the sides.

Critical part of Winnebago roof maintenance is the side edge seal (don't use lap sealant).  As shown in the diagram, the edge of the roof is held in it's channel with sealant.  If it separates and pops up, wind will finish the job and tear up that roof.  Most roof failures discussed are in cross winds on the highway.  Not sure if it happens from a little pressurization under the fiberglass, or just general distortion in the wind, but once it starts it goes instantly.

You can check the sealant by using your thumb and pushing in on the fiberglass at the at the rain gutter track.  If the sealant separates, it's shot and needs stripped out and replaced.  Sometimes, like on mine, the clear sealant over the dark paint is worse than the light paint.  If you are non-painted, you may only see differences on the side you park in the sun the most.  The overall idea is keep that sealant in good shape using Winnebagos sealant by part number.  It is similar to a quality silicone - clear for painted models.

Thank you for your answers, and my year is a 2016 Itasca Cambria

if that was my roof design,  I'd be really tempted to put a thin strip of Eturnabond tape overlapping that edge into the channel.

Non unless they made clear enterbond.  That would look real tacky on a full body paint unit. 

Maybe cover it with a body colored vinyl ?    I think It would look better than a water stain ?

IMO,  A molded fiberglass roof is a much better design.

TonyDtorch said:

Maybe cover it with a body colored vinyl ?    I think It would look better than a water stain ?

IMO,  A molded fiberglass roof is a much better design.

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  There is no water stain risk associated with that seal.  That seal is the mechanism of attachment for the edge of the roof.  As you can see from the detail, water would exit over the rain gutter before it could get inside the rig. 

Not sure why you would want to compromise by using interbond over a painted unit - just fix it right.

Mile High said:

  There is no water stain risk associated with that seal.  - just fix it right.

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Isn't there a risk of water damage if the roof panel lifts up in a good storm...?

Usually... 'fixing something right' implies it won't keep happening.      this is listed as a maintenance procedure so it must be an ongoing issue.
 

TonyDtorch said:

Isn't there a risk of water damage if the roof panel lifts up in a good storm...?

Usually... 'fixing something right' implies it won't keep happening.      this is listed as a maintenance procedure so it must be an ongoing issue.

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If the panel lifts up in a storm, the maintenance, or even the inspection wasn't done.  I assume you own another brand so you are having fun stirring this one up and that's OK. 

Mile High said:

If the panel lifts up in a storm, the maintenance, or even the inspection wasn't done.  I assume you own another brand so you are having fun stirring this one up and that's OK.

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yes,  but it's a questionable design,  (IMO)    as there is no mechanical roof panel attachment.

ArubaBound2011 said:

Thank you for your answers, and my year is a 2016 Itasca Cambria

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I don't believe your unit uses the same kind of aluminum extrusion for the sidewall to roof  joint. In any case, be sure to read and follow any ongoing routine maintenance recommendations.

And yes, some here have used Etrnabond to cover that infamous seam. I've found over the years the ends of that kind of roof-sidewall joint tend to frequently break the sealant bond. I suspect there is torsion between the end caps and the house box and the sealant eventually works and then breaks.

The extrusion design is quite clever from a manufacturing perspective. They lower the roof on top of the house box and use a gizmo to pull along the seam to force the edge of the Filon roof skin into the mating groove on the extrusion. Real world experience though indicates this design is maintenance intensive unfortunately. Ignore annual or the recommended bi-annual inspection and you risk the roof skin peeling back as many have reported.

a new coat of Paint ? 
my 17 year old fiberglass roof is still the original gel-coat,  the same as the sides,  and all I've ever done is wash and wax it.

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My coach was a different brand and the fiberglass was painted. Body color rolled over onto the top at sides and front/rear, then reflective white in the broad central area.  Since the Winnie roof apparently is not painted, ignore that part of the advice.

The roof skin is gelcoat Filon. On full body paint units, the color extends up and over the roof radius.

John Canfield said:

I don't believe your unit uses the same kind of aluminum extrusion for the sidewall to roof  joint. In any case, be sure to read and follow any ongoing routine maintenance recommendations.

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John, best I can tell from the brochure nothing has changed on the joint.

I'll find out at the GNR.

John Canfield said:

I'll find out at the GNR.

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If anything, the angle of approach for the roof may be closer to 45 degrees rather than 90 degrees.  Be curious what you hear and if they plan to keep using that design.  They sure catch grief for it, every time a wind ripped roof shows up on a forum.