Fog Lights 2012 Tour

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Raylc

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2015
Posts
116
Location
Huntsville, TX.
Ok I need some help. One of my fog lights on my 2012 Tour stopped working. (The bulb went bad) Where can I find these they are a bulb with the bracket and wire attached to it. I have moved to Huntsville, TX and there is no Winnebago dealer near me without driving into Houston and that isn't any fun. I would like to order them on line if someone knows where to do that. Thanks for your help.
 
Call Lichtsinn Motors @ 800-343-6255. Ask for rv parts. Have your coach s/n ready.  They are a mile from the factory, and can promptly ship you whatever you need (correct part based on your s/n) probably cheaper than you could buy it locally. They have never let me down.
 
This is an internal bulb to a fixture? Have you taken it to an auto parts store?
 
The light is a bulb that has a wire attached to one leg and the other leg goes to ground. The other end of the wire plugs into the wiring harness. I will give that dealer a call to see if they can help me. Thanks
 
That sounds like a standard H3 lamp available anywhere. See this:
http://www.bulbs.com/product/H3-55W-12V?mobile=true
 
I replaced ours with an LED:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTMTATI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm pleased with it.
 
If you are going to convert, don't go for the best 'deal' or you will be sorely dissipointed. The LED shown is only 1200LM and no heatsink. They are hardly brighter than a good turnsignal or docking light. You want something in the 60-80W class between 8000-12000LM to make any real light, and at that level they will either have external copper heatsink braids or small fans, otherwise you WILL burn them out. I have LED driving lights on the motorhome and my Explorer, as well as LED docking lights behind the coach, and have tried several different power levels, so I have experience with how they all act. Buy the right ones and you won't be sorry
 
SCVJeff said:
If you are going to convert, don't go for the best 'deal' or you will be sorely dissipointed. The LED shown is only 1200LM and no heatsink. They are hardly brighter than a good turnsignal or docking light. You want something in the 60-80W class between 8000-12000LM to make any real light,
Click to expand...
Excellent point.  I have been looking for led replacements for H9 headlight bulbs but have not yet found any that put out the necessary lumens.
 
Remember guys, these are fog lights.  They are not designed to illuminate lots of road like the headlights.  The cover is frosted (white, not clear) and is more for letting other drivers see the motorhome and illuminate close in, than to shine a long way down the road.  So the leds that I posted are fine for this application.  They will last a long time and fit in the existing housing and are very reasonably priced.

For a real headlight, I bought the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4GG6L2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If the link doesn't come up, its 8000 lumen, 7" round H6024/H4 bulb LED system that includes a housing and led bulb with fan and heatsink that can replace the round headlights of some motorhomes.  I had some challenges with the installation (mostly bad directions), but the end result was a headlight that takes less power, is tremendously brighter than stock, fits easily in the opening, and has a fan to cool the LED for long life.  Its also much whiter of a light at 6000K than stock.
 
Mine are clear driving lights not fog lights. I can't remember the last time I saw a frosted lens, if ever.
 
KK.  Sorry.  Mine are different and need a lower-illum bulb.  No problem.  There are brighter bulbs out there like the headlights I posted earlier that are excellent, but do get hot.  We have gone to almost-total LEDs.  Marker, backup lights, headlights, etc.  Turn signals are one exception.  Doesn't seem worth it to replace bulbs that only occasionally are lit and sometimes there is a flashing issue.  Manufacturers sometimes recommend ballast resisters to keep the flashers working OK, but that just increases the load and the additional power just goes to heat in the resister.  Doesn't seem worth it. 
 
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