Black and gray tank valves will not close

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

istartem

New member
Joined
May 10, 2017
Posts
2
Winnebago - 2000 Adventurer. My black and gray tank valves are very hard to close. In fact, the black valve  is partially open. I have added a valve at the drain hose. I have tried to lubricate the cables with no success. I have also tried to clean the black tank by several methods including with a turbo stick. Is there a way to get access to the valves so that I can lubricate or relpace them? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
It sounds like they are the cable operated Valterra valves and unfortunately the only fix is to replace them. I just went through this with my fresh water tank dump. It was leaking and the leak got worse and worse to where we couldn't keep any water in the tank. Look for my post in this board called [Solved]FW tank leaking (or something like that.) Access to the valve wasn't great but I managed to get the job done.

Oh, welcome!
 
BinaryBob said:
Assuming you have the standard plunger valves ,  you should be able to replace both valves fairly easily.

He probably has those valves Bob but their problem is they are operated by a cable. I have the same situation with mine. On one of my gray tanks I eliminated the cable assembly and was able to connect a solid rod to the valve and it exited through the side of the frame. On my other gray tank the cable is shorter so it operates OK. On my black tank, the cable is quite long and there's play in between the cable and the outer sheathing. This play is enough to not allow the valve to fully shut especially if anything gets trapped in the guide slots inside the valve. I'm also going to modify that valve with a solid rod. The only thing is that it will exit the frame on the passenger side of the RV.
What the OP can try, is shut the valve they've installed on the end of the sewer pipe and open the black tank drain valve. Fill the tank with fresh water to a point where the valve is totally submerged. Then you can add some septic tank stuff like RIDEX and let it set for several days. Hopefully the RIDEX will eat away what ever is in the valve tracks if that's their problem.
 
The Valterra cable operated valves have a temporary red spacer on the cable near the handle that makes it impossible to install the valve without having enough movement to firmly seat the plunger and then some. My fresh water valve looked okay when I took it all apart, the seals and knife plunger seemed clean enough but there were enough mineral precipitates contaminating the mating surfaces to where it seriously leaked. The only foolproof solution is replacement.
 
Thanks all for your comments. I have looked underneath the unit and do not see the cables or valves. Also, within the compartment, I have tried to follow the cables but they disappear behind a wall. How do I get to the valves to repair them? My local dealer (non-Winnebago) has told me that there is a great deal of disassembly involved and may cost $1K in labor!! Before I tackle this myself, I would like to have some idea as to where to start. Thanks again.
 
On my coach the valves can be accessed via a panel on the underside of the coach. This access is small and it may be necessary to cut the existing opening to get at the grey tank valve. The black tank valve is easier to access.
You should consider replacing both valves while you are in the area. You should also run the left side of the coach up on some boards to give yourself more room to work. I do not really like laying under the coach raised up on the jacks. Expect to spend a full day on the project
 
istartem said:
Thanks all for your comments. I have looked underneath the unit and do not see the cables or valves. Also, within the compartment, I have tried to follow the cables but they disappear behind a wall. How do I get to the valves to repair them? My local dealer (non-Winnebago) has told me that there is a great deal of disassembly involved and may cost $1K in labor!! Before I tackle this myself, I would like to have some idea as to where to start. Thanks again.
Winnebago did not use valterra valves in my coach, I forget the brand. I had all 3 of mine replaced at once by Camping World. Thankfully my extended service contract covered the work and parts, -$50 deductible for that visit.
Prior to replacing the valves, the ESC required replacing the cables - 2X, which never solved the failing to close completely problem.

Yes, the black and grey valves are buried behind sheet metal panels, and difficult to access. On my coach the valve handles are removed + nuts holding the cable into the sheet metal panel.
You may download the plumbing schematic for your make and model MH from the W website. I think the link is in the sticky at top of this forum.
 
Back
Top Bottom