I've heard various suggestions as to the best way to use an anti-sway bar and wondered what the consensus opinion on this is. The technician at the dealership told me to tighten it as tight as I can get it my hand, than back off a half a turn. At another RV dealer I was told to tighten the handle only until I feel the least bit of resistance, i.e., leave it pretty loose. And then recently I was told to tighten it as tight as I can get it without using a wrench, and leave it in that position. Everyone pretty much said to remember to take it off before backing up with the camper, but this was three different suggestions on how tight or loose to have it for towing. Any comments?
What's the right way to use an anti-sway bar?
- Thread starter vito55
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Arch Hoagland
Well-known member
I experimented with mine until I got it set to where it was able to do it's job...keeping the sway to a minimum. As I recall I set it pretty tight, but that was 13 years ago.
JFN
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Previous thread. http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=19967.0
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
They don't provide all that much friction, so generally tighter is better. It needs to be able to move, of course. I like the first advice - tighten hard and then back off a half turn. If you actually need assistance from it, more is better. If you don't, then it makes little difference. Trouble is, you won't know until you are in trouble.
My best advice is to trash the anti-sway device and get a WD hitch with built-in anti-sway, e.g. an Equal-I-Zer, Reese Strait Line, Husky Centerline, E2, etc. That way you don't have to worry about adjusting the friction and its always there when you need it.
My best advice is to trash the anti-sway device and get a WD hitch with built-in anti-sway, e.g. an Equal-I-Zer, Reese Strait Line, Husky Centerline, E2, etc. That way you don't have to worry about adjusting the friction and its always there when you need it.
Just tighten the handle till it is firm. The adjustment is the bolt.
What I do is drive and watch how the trailer reacts to a small, quick steering input. Of course do this on an empty and open road. To get a baseline, try it with the handle loose. Now tighten the handle and observe the sway doing the same steering input. Tighten or loosen the bolt till there is little over-travel when doing the test. You will never eliminate all over-travel with any kind of sway device because of the way trailer suspension works. If you take the time to adjust it, the friction bar will work OK. The manufacturers give absolutely no real information on how to test and adjust the friction sway bars, probably for liability reasons. Many just throw money at the sway issue instead of setting up a friction bar properly.
What I do is drive and watch how the trailer reacts to a small, quick steering input. Of course do this on an empty and open road. To get a baseline, try it with the handle loose. Now tighten the handle and observe the sway doing the same steering input. Tighten or loosen the bolt till there is little over-travel when doing the test. You will never eliminate all over-travel with any kind of sway device because of the way trailer suspension works. If you take the time to adjust it, the friction bar will work OK. The manufacturers give absolutely no real information on how to test and adjust the friction sway bars, probably for liability reasons. Many just throw money at the sway issue instead of setting up a friction bar properly.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I personally think the friction anti-sway devices are just a band-aid to help reduce anxiety over the possibility of trailer sway. And an extra money maker too. Sway is largely a matter of having the proper amount of tongue or pin weight - if the front is too light the trailer will sway regardless of any devices used. Crosswinds are a factor too, and no anti-sway device can overcome a strong and variable crosswind.
I also don't think you can learn anything useful by looking for the "over-travel" that lynnmore describes, but I've not tried it myself. The trailer should not swing any wider or further without a sway device than with one. It's the continued oscillation that it is supposed to stop. However, if you can make a trailer begin to sway back & forth with a quick steering move, I suggest that you already have trouble and need to add some tongue or pin weight.
I also don't think you can learn anything useful by looking for the "over-travel" that lynnmore describes, but I've not tried it myself. The trailer should not swing any wider or further without a sway device than with one. It's the continued oscillation that it is supposed to stop. However, if you can make a trailer begin to sway back & forth with a quick steering move, I suggest that you already have trouble and need to add some tongue or pin weight.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
When I used one I ran it TIGHT, worked too. I would rather run too tight than too loose.
Suggestion, Get a piece of pipe that just slips over the handle. DO NOT USE IT TO TIGHTEN. but you may need it to release. cause you usually have to back off on the handle before you unhook.
Suggestion, Get a piece of pipe that just slips over the handle. DO NOT USE IT TO TIGHTEN. but you may need it to release. cause you usually have to back off on the handle before you unhook.
Gary RVer Emeritus said:
It is not a continued sway back & forth that you are looking for. Obviously continued swaying is an issue with setup, especially tongue weight. I mentioned trying the test with the friction off to see what happens and then again with the friction control engaged. You will see quite a difference with the over-travel. Yes, I have done this and can tell you that it is a valid way of doing the adjustment.
The reference to the Reese instructions, given by another poster, is truly lacking as I mentioned before. There is no instruction on a way to test results. Other manufacturers give the same kind of useless information.
The advice on needing a pipe to loosen a handle, from another poster, is another indication that folks still think that adjusting the tightness of the handle will be of some value.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Yeah, the topic went full circle.
The bottom line is that it's a judgement call adjustment, which is one of a couple reasons the device is less than ideal. People tend to leave it fairly loose to avoid noises or possible binding. They also forget to tighten it, and forget that it wears and needs occasional adjustment, and forget that road dirt gets in and can cause problems.
The bottom line is that it's a judgement call adjustment, which is one of a couple reasons the device is less than ideal. People tend to leave it fairly loose to avoid noises or possible binding. They also forget to tighten it, and forget that it wears and needs occasional adjustment, and forget that road dirt gets in and can cause problems.
