Any help appreciated

Hello,

My Dad passed away sunday and i find myself the owner of a 1994 fleetwood pacearrow 33ft (i think) rv.  I know when he got it from my aunt about 3 years ago it was in killer condition- and the interior still is.  But my dad only really took one trip in it before his health went down hill.  So its been sitting for about 2 years.

Its currently in Las Vegas and I live in east Tennessee.  So far from looking at it i know it needs tires and batteries.  I also plan to get the engine serviced and filters changed before i head home in it.  Im an OTR truck driver so i figure major mechanical underneath isn't that different from what ive been dealing with for the last 15 years.

My question to the forum of almighty RV gurus is this- i have about a week and a half before i head home and my wife and kids are riding with me.  And i need it to be a good trip to justify to the wife the money im about to spend on this thing.

So any tips/tricks.  Things i should check and repair/replace.  How about the holding tanks- should they be flushed- can i do it or does it need to be done at a shop. 

Ive never had or been around RV's so i know so little i dont even know the questions i should be asking.

Any advice would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

Welcome to the site!
I express my condolences to you on the loss of your Dad.
It sounds like you have a firm grasp on the chassis, so there's no need to tell you stuff about that. You could probably teach us about that part.
As it's a 1994, little stuff like the smoke detectors, LP detector, and CO detector should probably be replaced. The LP detector may be tied into a safety tank shut off. If so, these aren't required, so personally, I would bypass that valve if it were me. You can flush the tanks yourself, so no need for a shop. Hopefully if it has been exposed to freezing weather, it had been winterized. Look the "library" (click on tab above) to get a lot of good information. Tank flushing, sanitizing the freshwater system are just two of the subjects covered. There are PDI (pre-delivery inspection) checklists in the library also. These are used mainly for checking out an RV before buying. These checklists may be of help when going through each of the systems on your coach. Look for signs of water intrusion (leaks) and determine if they are still active leaks that will need repair, or old leaks. Try to determine if there is major or minor damage from the leaks. Fixing water damage is usually the hardest and most costly repair to RV's. Check all roof seams and penetrations carefully to see if they need attention. Use the "search" button beside the "library" to gather information on Dicor self-leveling lap sealant and Eternabond tape.

There's lot of good and knowledgeable folks here, so any questions, ask away. As I'm sure you've heard before, the only dumb question is the one that didn't get asked. Everybody here started as a newby at RV's.

Freezing shouldn't have been a problem in Las Vegas I don't think. I would also change or at least look at all the hoses and belts. Don't worry about your tanks until you get it home. It would be a good idea to get up on the roof and do a quick inspection of the seams. If you see any cracking of the caulking, clean it the best you can and apply some self leveling caulk like Dicor.

The mechanical stuff will give you piece of mind and if it all works well the wife and kids won't notice.

The way to add value or show that the RV is worth it will be the stops you make along the way.  If you have time you may want to pick out some fun stops on the way home...Grand Canyon, Moab, Great Sand Dunes, Pikes Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park.  Pick one or two or all of them if you have time and throw in some swimming for good measure. 

Best wishes!

Rene T said:

Freezing shouldn't have been a problem in Las Vegas I don't think. 

Click to expand...

Freezing weather caught folks there napping for at least the last two winters.

I thank everyone for the replies.

While i was over doing some other errands i did a sorta inspection on the exterior condition.  My first look at it was just trying to figure out the major items it needed to roll.  Seems like theres a vinyl material that covers the roof at its torn/peeling in one location.  Other than that the roof seems like its in excellent condition.  I plan on finding a patch to that one spot.  No water leaks/intrusion that i can find.  I have a buddy that has a newer rv and it seems like this old 1994 i now have is better built.

I plan on going to camping world to get some basic supplies.  i would wait on the tanks till i get home but i want to be able to stay in the rv on the drive home instead of renting hotel rooms like we had to on the way out.

I plan on getting this beast serviced but other than that the belts and hoses seem like there in better condition than the ones on my rig lol-  i did climb up under it and it has some mild body damage on both sides behind the drives- looks like it got smacked by swinging rubber from a blown out tire sometime in its like-  I feel like thats a design flaw- i hope on the newer units these manufactures put blowout bars- i would be rather annoyed to have even mild damage on a new RV for what they cost.

But the engine mounts are in surprisingly good condition considering there holding on to that beast of a 454.  Other than needing a full grease job im confidant it would pass a level 1 dot inspection (not even fully confidant my rig could do that, those dot guys hate giving clear inspections)

I need to test the outriggers (not sure what you call them on an RV- the leveling rams)  where its currently parked my Dad just had the rear left ram down to counter the lean on the driveway.  I got told today by his helper that he thinks that the right rear dont work and he wasnt sure about the fronts.  Im hoping that the system is intact and its just a signal issue. 

But hopefully tomorrow i can find tires and batteries so i can start system testing.  And figuring out how the generator works- but goal is to get it moved over to my uncles house- he has full hookups where i can start getting everything situated.

I did find what looks like a manufacture binder full of literature on all the stuff installed in this thing- so i got some reading to do

ohh- and one more question- if you were semi broke but had to put tires on your rig- what brands would you look at and what to avoid.  Shes got 225/70/r19.5 for drives and 245/70/r19.5 for steers.

How old are the tires?

Rene T said:

How old are the tires?

Click to expand...

Not sure but 5 are pretty dry rotted and 1 is completely blown- vegas isnt easy on tires and these have been uncovered- and there all mildly low on air and have been sitting like that for a while so im sure at the least they have gone square.  Normally i only run Michelins and if this thing had 22.5 rims i could get a rocking deal on 6 tires- but my hook up on heavy tires just kinda looked at me funny when i asked about 19.5- his first question was "why the hell did you buy a step deck".

You've got your work cut out for you, but it's doable. Your main goal is to get this unit back to your home. I would approach it from that angle. Think about what you will need to ensure works, versus what can wait. Make a list, think of it as if it's your tractor/trailer and you're heading out. Get new tires, oil change, radiator flush, batteries. Check all lights. I would carry (even though you may not need them right now) a set of hoses and belts, extra antifreeze, oil, transmission fluid. Take a set of tools, shop rags, a small bottle jack that can lift part of the unit. I carry all this stuff plus things like a small pancake compressor, a piece of 1/2 " PEX tubing plus an assortment of "Shark Bite" style plumbing connectors, tie wraps, mechanics wire, electric wire, crimp connectors, test light, multimeter, electrical tape, extra fuses, light bulbs.

I could go on, but hopefully this will give you something to think about.

Make sure all systems work including water pump, water heater, stove, a/c, heating unit, interior lights, faucets, no leaks, dump tank valves, generator. Check all compartment latches/locks.

Be sure you are familiar with how all systems work and do "hands on" testing to help you in your learning.

Have extra keys made and give sets to wife and kids, if applicable.

I guess this sounds like overkill or paranoia, but remember that when you're traveling, there are a lot of small things that can break and ruin your day. A leaking hose, a broken electrical wire, etc. You can't cover everything, but think of the obvious problems and work from there. Good luck AND IT WILL BE A FUN TRIP!!

Check the area around the torn roof carefully for wood rot.

If you need house batteries most of us would agree 2 - 6 v golf cart (GC2) wet cell batteries in series will give you the most bang for your buck.  Trojan T-105's come highly recommended at around $125 each, however a lot of us have had excellent service with Costco's or Sam's Club GC-2 at about $89 each.  The 12v system not only powers the house lights, but is also used for control voltage for frig, furnace, water heater and often provide power for starting the generator.

And as a side note you can run the generator while underway to power the roof AC units if needed.

Howard

make sure you have towing insurance before you start out and that it covers  an RV  just for peace of mind if nothing else
Norm

For the date coding on a tire, go online to a site like Discount Tire or enter "tire date code" or some such term . Should show you how to find and read the numbers. Very easy to do.

A few comments...
1. You can get off-brand (usually Chinese) tires at fairly low prices, but I would suggest looking for international brands from 2nd tier companies like Toyo, Sumitomo, Yokohoma, or Hankook. Many Americans are unfamiliar with these brands, but they are high quality tires with a worldwide reputation to uphold. They should not cost much more than the off-brands. But the off-brands are mostly OK too. They just seem to have poorer quality control, so the chance of getting one or more truly bad ones is greater.

2. The roof material is EPDM rubber, not vinyl. Anything loose should be glued or taped (Eternabond) down and the edges sealed (caulked with Dicor lap sealant) until you have time to do a real repair. Water intrusion does serious damage to an RV.

3. The Chevy chassis is nowhere near as robust as the OTR trucks you are familiar with. It has some known weak points:
3a. The front suspension is combined air bags and coil springs. Make sure the bags are inflated (30-45 psi) and holding pressure or you will have serious ride and handling problems up front.
3b. The parking & emergency brake (auto-brake) is a drum mounted on the drive shaft behind the transmission. It is automatically engaged when the tranny is placed in Park.  It is well-known for sticking, either on or off, or simply not working at all. Hopefully it is ok for the trip home, but plan on a thorough overhaul in the near future.

I would highly recommend you taking it to Johnny Walker RV on Boulder Highway.  There are three locations, the center one across the street from Road Runner RV Park. 

Do not go to Camping World, they are by far the worst place to get something serviced. 

In 2013 we had occasion to need service and were staying in Road Runner RV Camp Ground and to this day I don't remember why we chose Johnny Walker, may be it was a recommendation.

Their service personnel are top notch.  Their service writers follow through.  You can stay overnight in their lot while service is done.

I have hardly ever written a letter of thanks to a business for great care and service.  I did to this company.

Gary RVer Emeritus said:

A few comments...
1. You can get off-brand (usually Chinese) tires at fairly low prices, but I would suggest looking for international brands from 2nd tier companies like Toyo, Sumitomo, Yokohoma, or Hankook. Many Americans are unfamiliar with these brands, but they are high quality tires with a worldwide reputation to uphold. They should not cost much more than the off-brands. But the off-brands are mostly OK too. They just seem to have poorer quality control, so the chance of getting one or more truly bad ones is greater.

2. The roof material is EPDM rubber, not vinyl. Anything loose should be glued or taped (Eternabond) down and the edges sealed (caulked with Dicor lap sealant) until you have time to do a real repair. Water intrusion does serious damage to an RV.

3. The Chevy chassis is nowhere near as robust as the OTR trucks you are familiar with. It has some known weak points:
3a. The front suspension is combined air bags and coil springs. Make sure the bags are inflated (30-45 psi) and holding pressure or you will have serious ride and handling problems up front.
3b. The parking & emergency brake (auto-brake) is a drum mounted on the drive shaft behind the transmission. It is automatically engaged when the tranny is placed in Park.  It is well-known for sticking, either on or off, or simply not working at all. Hopefully it is ok for the trip home, but plan on a thorough overhaul in the near future.

Click to expand...

Yeah im familiar with Chinese tires- the truck stops have been bombarding us owner ops for years with that junk rubber for years.  When it comes to my rig for the last 10 years the only rubber that gets put on my girl is Michelin.  Ive been running the XDN2 supers on my drives for the last 6 and havnt had a set yet not last at least 400k miles.  And the XZ energy steers are a gift from the tire gods, ive averaged almost 250k on every set ive ran.  And my rig is a 2011 KW T700- had her sense new and im about to roll 1.1 million on her so ive gone threw some tires.

Ill definintly give those air bags a good check-

And a drum mounted on the output shaft- glad to see the engineers dont do weird stuff just to us truckers lol

Yeah thats one thing i was kinda not liking about this RV is that its a chevy chassis- looking at it seems like its a class 6.5- im still trying to figure out the classification for Rv's- had a guy tell me this thing is a class A but in my world apparently class A means something different. 

Tom Hoffman said:

I would highly recommend you taking it to Johnny Walker RV on Boulder Highway.  There are three locations, the center one across the street from Road Runner RV Park. 

Do not go to Camping World, they are by far the worst place to get something serviced. 

In 2013 we had occasion to need service and were staying in Road Runner RV Camp Ground and to this day I don't remember why we chose Johnny Walker, may be it was a recommendation.

Their service personnel are top notch.  Their service writers follow through.  You can stay overnight in their lot while service is done.

I have hardly ever written a letter of thanks to a business for great care and service.  I did to this company.

Click to expand...

Yeah I ran local in Vegas years ago and used to deliver bulk awning loads to all the shops around Vegas.  Never really been a customer to the front side of those shops.  But based on how they treat the trucker around back at receiving.  Camping world was never my favorite.  And Johnny Walker on Bolder always was awesome and had free coffee.  And thats the secret, you want your delivery guy to love ya, its all about free coffee. 

Johnny Walker is definitely on my list.  I was trying to remember the name of that shop down on bolder.  Apparently Ted Weins and Findlay Rv have paid off Google.  Johnny Walker hadn't popped up in search results.  Googling now.

2kGeorgieBoy said:

For the date coding on a tire, go online to a site like Discount Tire or enter "tire date code" or some such term . Should show you how to find and read the numbers. Very easy to do.

Click to expand...

If its the same system as semi tires- it should be a DOT #
most manufactures use a simple 4 digit DOT # that the first 2 digits are the week code and the last 2 digits are the year code.
Some have gone to use the DOT# as the tires serial number.  The 4 digit date code in incorporated into that usually the last 4.  Had a set of Michelin test tires that had a 14 digit DOT# and the last 4 were in brackets to set it out as the date code.  Used to separate the DOT# and casing numbers but some tire shops done have the sharpest crayons as installers and all national invoices require the DOT# and Casing # but asking for 2 different numbers i guess was to complicated.

Howard R said:

If you need house batteries most of us would agree 2 - 6 v golf cart (GC2) wet cell batteries in series will give you the most bang for your buck.  Trojan T-105's come highly recommended at around $125 each, however a lot of us have had excellent service with Costco's or Sam's Club GC-2 at about $89 each.  The 12v system not only powers the house lights, but is also used for control voltage for frig, furnace, water heater and often provide power for starting the generator.

And as a side note you can run the generator while underway to power the roof AC units if needed.

Howard

Click to expand...

Is this a system that required 2 6v?  looking at the wiring diagrams it wired cross to jump the 2 6v up to 12v.  Why not 2 12v wired straight? 

But when it comes to those 6v batteries, once i figured out thats what the book called for i called my best friend.  He was a mobile tech for yamaha golf carts for years.  And he said Trojan so i guess the recommendation is universal.

nfredrick said:

make sure you have towing insurance before you start out and that it covers  an RV  just for peace of mind if nothing else
Norm

Click to expand...

I havnt called my agent yet.  I was just going to add it to my current policy.  But towing insurance covers an RV even tho a RV is a power unit?  I have towing coverage that applies full coverage to what ever one of my power units are latched to.