Water Pressure

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mrslide

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Jun 16, 2017
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My owners manual says to limit incoming water pressure to 40 psi. Has anyone had issues with higher pressures? I have a 2008 Winnebago Destination class A.
 
No problems. I run my 2005 horizon at 55 lbs and my pump will push it to almost 70lbs before it shuts off. I have done this for 9 years. 40lbs is being ultra conservative. I believe the water lines are rated at least 80lbs.
 
Hogwash - that's just some Winnebago lawyer talking. The RV's own water pump operates at higher pressure than that (45 is the standard factory setting for those pumps) and the coach water system was tested at 85 psi (RVIA minimum test spec). Most campground and city water systems operate in the 40-60 psi rangeand that's fine.

You may encounter some park systems that will be extremely high, though, especially in mountain areas. It's a good idea to always use a pressure regulator and set it to something like 55-60  psi.
 
Arch Hoagland said:
I've been to RV parks where the pressure is over 100 pounds. I use a pressure regulator all the time.

Arch Hoagland
The "Shurflo water entry" (https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-Mount-Pressure-Regulator-Water/dp/B00074QUCQ), on my '96 Safari has a built in 65 PSI water pressure regulator.
 
I run mine at 50-55 PSI as well but I have a Damon.

I am told (Can't prove it) that the "Pipes" and fittings have no problems with 100 PSI but some of the valves used start failing around 60 PSI.. So 55 (Which is the preset on my new water pump) is the upper Limit... And I now have a leak I'm going to chase next week.

NOTE: If you regulate, the regulator should be at the PARK end of your hose.

I've been in one park where pressures were MEASURED at 120PSI (I can tell you you get a real good shower there) On many occasions, 120 PSI.. That is enough to blow many water hoses apart.  SO do regulate
 
I also agree that 40 PSI is weak. I run a Valterra adjustable pressure regulator on the RV set at 60 PSI.  Good pressure for showers and everything else.

One caveat. While up at Yellowstone and using their ground water in the rig, we had a propane tankless W/H.  With higher water pressures, the ultra cold ground water would not stay in the heating coils long enough to get hot before coming out of the faucets. The option was to turn the water pressure down to about 40 PSI to keep in the W/H longer.
 
A pressure regulator is cheap. 
Replacing pipe is not cheap.
Easy decision.  Always use a regulator,

John and Becky 2004 See Ya
2008 Honda CRV
 
To give you an example of what can be done,, I installed a new water pump 6 months ago,,5.8 gallons per minute at 100 pounds per inch....No leaks shakes or tear down the seams,,and GREAT showers.>>>Dan ( Then again my coach was built when quality and detail matered)
 
mel s said:
Arch Hoagland
The "Shurflo water entry" (https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-Mount-Pressure-Regulator-Water/dp/B00074QUCQ), on my '96 Safari has a built in 65 PSI water pressure regulator.

My regulator is attached to the motorhome water inlet and I connect my water hose to it. So, effectively it is built in as I never remove it. I have a pressure gauge attached to it and my pressure stays at 45 pounds. 
 
John From Detroit said:
NOTE: If you regulate, the regulator should be at the PARK end of your hose.

I've heard that before but I can't seem to understand why that would be. Would someone please elaborate on that?

Dale
 
mrslide said:
My owners manual says to limit incoming water pressure to 40 psi. Has anyone had issues with higher pressures? I have a 2008 Winnebago Destination class A.

Just go to Walmart and pick up a cheap water pressure regulator. Just a few bucks and it keeps water pressure between 40-50 psi. Never any complaints from the wife or kids on there not being enough water pressure. It will help protect your plumbing too if the site has crazy high pressure.
 
Those inline water pressure regulators costing "just a few bucks" are very often not regulators at all, they are simply flow restrictors. The cheaper true regulators like the Watts LFH560 and are in the neighbourhood of 50$, worth every penny.
 
If one is hooked up to a site with 100 psi water supply and use one of the "cheap ones from Walmart", hook a pressure gauge into your RV's water system. When you are actually using water in the RV, you might read 45 to 50 psi. As soon as the water usage stops, the pressure in the RV will go to 100 psi.
 
kdbgoat said:
If one is hooked up to a site with 100 psi water supply and use one of the "cheap ones from Walmart", hook a pressure gauge into your RV's water system. When you are actually using water in the RV, you might read 45 to 50 psi. As soon as the water usage stops, the pressure in the RV will go to 100 psi.

All I know is that I have used mine many times and have never had any issues. For the price I feel like they do what they are supposed to do. Thanks for the info.
 
goose33 said:
All I know is that I have used mine many times and have never had any issues. For the price I feel like they do what they are supposed to do. Thanks for the info.

Because the places you've been have low water pressure. I've got a couple around here I think and anyone can have them if they want to pay shipping.
 

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