Gottasmilealot
Well-known member
After breathing that sigh of relief after slowly filling and flushing the water system of antifreeze for the new season, I did the water heater fire-up. Everything went without a hitch. I put the water system on pressure, and "Pop", a pipe pulled from an elbow under my vanity in the absolute hardest place to get in to repair (other than under the shower). You might have known.
What I discovered was that that the piping runs along the outside wall at the electric cord compartment under the vanity, and that a previous owner or service person had removed a section of piping (it probably froze in the past) and replaced it with CPVC instead. What I noted was that the pipe had come out clean, almost as if it had never been glued. It appears as if the repair was made with the incorrect glue. The plastic glues are made for CPVC, PVC, or a more expensive glue that works with the various dissimilar plastic piping products. What I'm saying is to buy the correct, more expensive, glue for the job. Also, be sure that the plastic pipe used on your hot water line is rated for hot water. In my case, the CPVC was not. The degree and pressure ratings, as well as whether the pipe is made for potable water, is marked on the pipe. We'll, I got the right glue and re-glued the bad joint. Filled it up again, and yes, the joint under the shower went. To make a long story short, I ended up replacing the previously repaired pipe completely rather than having to worry about a pipe letting loose while on the road somewhere. This was a completely preventable repair had it been done correctly to begin with.
In addition, I made up and emergency repair kit consisting if a short piece of 5/8" I.D. automotive heater hose and a few pipe clamps. In the even of a break, the hose can be slipped over the break and secured by two pipe clamps. The heater hose can take the heat if used on a hot water line, and the inside 5/8" diameter is the same as the outside 5/8" of the rig's 1/2" piping.
What I discovered was that that the piping runs along the outside wall at the electric cord compartment under the vanity, and that a previous owner or service person had removed a section of piping (it probably froze in the past) and replaced it with CPVC instead. What I noted was that the pipe had come out clean, almost as if it had never been glued. It appears as if the repair was made with the incorrect glue. The plastic glues are made for CPVC, PVC, or a more expensive glue that works with the various dissimilar plastic piping products. What I'm saying is to buy the correct, more expensive, glue for the job. Also, be sure that the plastic pipe used on your hot water line is rated for hot water. In my case, the CPVC was not. The degree and pressure ratings, as well as whether the pipe is made for potable water, is marked on the pipe. We'll, I got the right glue and re-glued the bad joint. Filled it up again, and yes, the joint under the shower went. To make a long story short, I ended up replacing the previously repaired pipe completely rather than having to worry about a pipe letting loose while on the road somewhere. This was a completely preventable repair had it been done correctly to begin with.
In addition, I made up and emergency repair kit consisting if a short piece of 5/8" I.D. automotive heater hose and a few pipe clamps. In the even of a break, the hose can be slipped over the break and secured by two pipe clamps. The heater hose can take the heat if used on a hot water line, and the inside 5/8" diameter is the same as the outside 5/8" of the rig's 1/2" piping.
