Box Depth Chevy 3500

I just dealt for a 2107 Chevrolet 3500 DRW 4x4 today. Now I am having second thoughts about the depth of the box. I plan to use an Andersen hitch that I used in my 2004 Ford F-250 4x4. I am pulling a 2015 Grand Design 29 RS. The height of the bed was never an issue but now I am concerned about the height of the bed and the depth of the box. The hitch has about 5" of adjustment and I could adjust the pin on the camper if need be. Has anyone used a similar set up? 

I have a 2017 Chevy 3500 SRW 6.5' box.  I haven't had any issues with the Andersen and height.  On a level surface I can get to almost 90 degrees.  It does get tight between the pin box and bed rail.  I've thought about raising the ball up one notch, but not sure it's a necessity.  Disclaimer:  I'm on my first RV trip with the new truck and rig, so your mileage might vary. 

Thanks for the response.I just measured the height of the Andersen versus my standard 5th wheel plate. It appears I have approximately 3 more height with the Andersen. I think it will be fine given the measurement and your experience. Speaking of fuel economy I guess it's too early to ask about yours!

ip076 said:

I have a 2017 Chevy 3500 SRW 6.5' box.  I haven't had any issues with the Andersen and height.  On a level surface I can get to almost 90 degrees.  It does get tight between the pin box and bed rail.  I've thought about raising the ball up one notch, but not sure it's a necessity.  Disclaimer:  I'm on my first RV trip with the new truck and rig, so your mileage might vary.

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Where is the location of the ball relative to the truck axle?  I have the hitch rails already installed and they are spaced evenly in front and behind the axle. My box is 6-1/2'. The Andersen frame is built with a offset. If I were to mount the frame so the ball is in front of the axle, I'm afraid the RV will hit the cab. If I were to mount the frame so the offset is behind the axle, I'm afraid it will put too much weight behind the axle and lifting the front of the truck maybe causing a steering problem. I just wished they'd make a frame with no offset.

As far as the clearance between the truck side rails and the RV, you should have at least 5" and preferably 6".

Probably!  I've got about 350 miles of towing under my belt so far.  I was getting about 12 on the highway running 66-68 mph.  Once I started up the east side of Mt. Hood and over the pass and back down 26 the mileage dropped.  I think I averaged 10.8 for the trip.

I do have a bit of heavy foot and should back that down a few mph, also I only have 2400 miles on the truck, so I think the mileage will improve with time. 

I was telling a friend of mine that I only discovered one problem with the truck.  It drives and tows like a dream, to the point you could actually forget you're towing something...and that's bad.  The exhaust brake is amazing coming down hill and off the freeway, I really like it, should save the brakes.  Now that I said that, I'm not sure if yours is a diesel or not. 

I really like the truck.  I think you will too.

Oh, my Bighorn had a plastic fairing covering the pin.  It was probably sold as fuel savings, but I think it's just for looks, but either way it extended quite a way down from the pin box...that did end up being an issue with the tailgate and the bed rails...I just removed it...I could trim it down and reinstall, maybe sometime down the road. 

Rene T said:

Where is the location of the ball relative to the truck axle?  I have the hitch rails already installed and they are spaced evenly in front and behind the axle. My box is 6-1/2'. The Andersen frame is built with a offset. If you mount the frame so the ball is in front of the axle, I'm afraid the RV will hit the cab. If you mount the frame so the offset is behind the axle, I'm afraid it will put too much weight behind the axle and lifting the front of the truck maybe causing a steering problem. I just wished they'd make a frame with no offset.

As far as the clearance between the truck side rails and the RV, you should have at least 5" and preferably 6".

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The ball on mine is nearly exactly over the rear axle.  I do not have the rail system.  My truck had a clean bed, and I had a standard gooseneck hitch installed and then went with the Andersen.  I really didn't want the rail system.

I'll measure mine when I hook up again.  It's pretty close to 6".  The only close spot I get is in a tight turn the pin box and the bed rail will get to about an inch.  Could be an issue if off camber. 

ip076 said:

I was telling a friend of mine that I only discovered one problem with the truck.  It drives and tows like a dream, to the point you could actually forget you're towing something...and that's bad. 

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I use the cruise control all the time. Set at 63/64 MPH.

The suspension on my 2500 may not be as stiff as the 3500 so my truck may squat a bit more but I have good clearance between the bed rails and the bottom of the 5th wheel overhang. To tow perfectly level I need to have the Andersen ball in the lowest position. Like ip076, though, "It does get tight between the pin box and bed rail" (in tight turns) like this. To give myself some extra insurance while turning, I've raised the Andersen ball to the middle position so the 5th wheel rides about 1-1/2" high in front. Still pretty darn close to level in my book. I've also mounted the adapter block so the ball is behind the pin drawing the trailer in closer to the truck (I have an 8' box).


I don't think the pin box getting close to the side rails is an Andersen thing, I think it's just the way the pin box is designed. If I had a traditional 5th wheel hitch, the pin box would be in the same position.

Joezeppy said:

I don't think the pin box getting close to the side rails is an Andersen thing, I think it's just the way the pin box is designed. If I had a traditional 5th wheel hitch, the pin box would be in the same position.

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I think that's a pretty accurate assessment. 

For what it's worth, it appears I've got my Andersen ball set at the second hole down.

I was pondering this the other day.  The thing is so easy to connect and disconnect, if you get to a spot that looks tight and you think it might be an issue, take 3 minutes, chock the back wheels, throw the landing jacks down, raise the ball a setting or two, and back her on in.  Might never be an issue, but I don't see why that's not a possibility.

Thanks, all good information. I think it will be fine after your comments and measuring both hitches. (Andersen and standard fifth wheel)

ip076 said:

I was pondering this the other day.  The thing is so easy to connect and disconnect, if you get to a spot that looks tight and you think it might be an issue, take 3 minutes, chock the back wheels, throw the landing jacks down, raise the ball a setting or two, and back her on in.  Might never be an issue, but I don't see why that's not a possibility.

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True - in fact, if done carefully you need not even unhook. As the landing gear is being lowed, the pin for the ball could be pulled when the weight is neutral. As you continue to lower the landing gear, it would raise the ball up so the pin could be inserted in the next hole. As you say, might never actually happen but who knows?

Joezeppy said:

True - in fact, if done carefully you need not even unhook. As the landing gear is being lowed, the pin for the ball could be pulled when the weight is neutral. As you continue to lower the landing gear, it would raise the ball up so the pin could be inserted in the next hole. As you say, might never actually happen but who knows?

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I thought of that too, just didn't think getting that fancy was a good idea for someone as clumsy as I am.