Hello, I recently got a 2006 holiday rambler savoy SL 30 footer to get the family back into camping and traveling. I brought it home plugged it in from the garage and started getting familiar with the camper and how to use everything. Long story short I found the plug for the TV and stuff wasn't working when I plugged it all in which then lead me to testing them all. Only ones that DO work are the one by the door, above the sink, the plug for the microwave, the outside plug and the bathroom plug which is the GFI plug. It was good tested it and it cut the power to the plugs just listed. Every other plug in the camper does not work. I checked every fuse and breaker flipping the breakers just to be sure with no prevail. I don't know a lot about RVs so I'm not sure if I'm missing something or what? Please help. Thank you
Most outlets not working
- Thread starter Tdeal465
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Tom
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Check around for a GCFI outlet that has tripped (the button will be out). RV manufacturers have found creative places to hide them. Not all outlets will be on the same GFCI.
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If it is not what Tom says; what I would do is find out which breaker is feeding that string of outlets, and then start at the breaker looking for a loose wire or it's neutral.
Start by checking all the neutrals at the panel to make sure they are all tight. Then check the load side of the breaker feeding that string. If that is good on the load side, find the closest outlet to the panel that is not working and check its wires.
it is going to be a bugger to trouble shoot since RV outlets are hard to get open, but you'll have to check everyone on the daisy chain till you find the one with the loose wire(s).
You said you checked all the breakers, but did you reset every one. When a breaker trips it has to be pushed all the way off before it can be reset. It could be as simple as that.
Jack l
Start by checking all the neutrals at the panel to make sure they are all tight. Then check the load side of the breaker feeding that string. If that is good on the load side, find the closest outlet to the panel that is not working and check its wires.
it is going to be a bugger to trouble shoot since RV outlets are hard to get open, but you'll have to check everyone on the daisy chain till you find the one with the loose wire(s).
You said you checked all the breakers, but did you reset every one. When a breaker trips it has to be pushed all the way off before it can be reset. It could be as simple as that.
Jack l
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I am inclined to NOT suspect the GFCI in this case.. (The outlet over the sink is always GFCI protected and it is working) but there may be a 2nd GFCI so that's not entierly cleared
I would check the circuit breakers, then UNPLUG and using 12 volt systems only open the power distribution box and check the screws, all of 'em, inside,, Many RVers have a few screws loose in this area.. One of mine took over 3 full turns to tighten.
Now.. Outlets are wired like this
Breaker box====Outlet====Outlet====OUtlet and so on
The outlets are usually cheap "Quick box" type with punch down connetions...
IF someone plugged in a 1500 watt space heater the connection inside the outlet box may have failed so the next step is checking all working outlets (FIrst "TEST" the GFCI so you show those as non-working, RESET it when done) Then map the ones that do not work either way and start checking both the working (if any) and non working oulets.. Just not the ones the GFCI controls.
NOTE: Some RV's have an INVERTER that powers many outlets off batteries when you are not plugged in or running generator.. Mine did but it is disabled just now..... These may have circuit breakers, often around in back where you can't see 'em.. Often post type (Push in hard to reset).
I would check the circuit breakers, then UNPLUG and using 12 volt systems only open the power distribution box and check the screws, all of 'em, inside,, Many RVers have a few screws loose in this area.. One of mine took over 3 full turns to tighten.
Now.. Outlets are wired like this
Breaker box====Outlet====Outlet====OUtlet and so on
The outlets are usually cheap "Quick box" type with punch down connetions...
IF someone plugged in a 1500 watt space heater the connection inside the outlet box may have failed so the next step is checking all working outlets (FIrst "TEST" the GFCI so you show those as non-working, RESET it when done) Then map the ones that do not work either way and start checking both the working (if any) and non working oulets.. Just not the ones the GFCI controls.
NOTE: Some RV's have an INVERTER that powers many outlets off batteries when you are not plugged in or running generator.. Mine did but it is disabled just now..... These may have circuit breakers, often around in back where you can't see 'em.. Often post type (Push in hard to reset).
Tom
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Good suggestion by Mel s if you have an inverter. We occasionally see one of the two breakers on our inverter trip. Ours are not the pop-out type of breaker.
You guys were a lot of help I did everything you guys said to do but i still can't find the problem. I fixed the back bedroom outlets but the harness for the front goes straight underneath the camper and I can't see it and have no idea where it goes. I can only follow it for so long underneath. But for all the outlets not working the harness drops from above none come from the bottom so I have no idea where it comes back up at. The harness Just drops then back up to link the next outlet. I found the end of the chain and have them all figured out except where that harness goes before it meets the non working outlets. I can't find another plug anywhere I tore everything apart... ideas?
Now, the breaker labeled Bedroom (the ones not working) powers all the power for the bedroom and the slide out. At the breaker it is capped to a black wire and white that run into the converter but I can't find a single way to open that converter. I see a cooling fan on it and I noticed it never kicked on then I noticed a wire that clearly got hot at some point that turned out to be the hot for the converter. But I have power out so maybe that's not connected?? When I put the meter on the breaker it just jumps from 1-2.7 volts but is that me doing something wrong or do I have a bigger problem?
Lastly... where would be the best place to get a wiring diagram?
Now, the breaker labeled Bedroom (the ones not working) powers all the power for the bedroom and the slide out. At the breaker it is capped to a black wire and white that run into the converter but I can't find a single way to open that converter. I see a cooling fan on it and I noticed it never kicked on then I noticed a wire that clearly got hot at some point that turned out to be the hot for the converter. But I have power out so maybe that's not connected?? When I put the meter on the breaker it just jumps from 1-2.7 volts but is that me doing something wrong or do I have a bigger problem?
Lastly... where would be the best place to get a wiring diagram?
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The converter produces 12vdc power for lighting and such. Has nothing to do with powering your outlets.
I don't know where you could get a Savoy schematic, since the new Monaco/HR (a brand of REV Group) doesn't build trailers. Not sure if they kept the documentation for them or not. They do have the old owner manual, though, so call and ask about a schematic.
http://www.holidayrambler.com/contact
http://www.holidayrambler.com/resources/media/manuals/2006_Savoy_SL_LX_5th_TT.pdf
I don't know where you could get a Savoy schematic, since the new Monaco/HR (a brand of REV Group) doesn't build trailers. Not sure if they kept the documentation for them or not. They do have the old owner manual, though, so call and ask about a schematic.
http://www.holidayrambler.com/contact
http://www.holidayrambler.com/resources/media/manuals/2006_Savoy_SL_LX_5th_TT.pdf
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Re the 1-2.7v measurement: Are you sure your meter is set for AC rather than DC and in the appropriate voltage range. It would be an extremely rare kind of fault to have such low voltage at the breaker. With the meter set to the proper function and range (if not auto-ranging), measure voltage from the breaker output terminal to the neutral and ground bus in the load center. The neutral bus is the place where all the white wires are attached, and the ground bus is where the all green or bare wires attach. With the breaker On, it should read 110-120v to both of those places. With the breaker Off, zero to both.
You have been given some sage advice from some great techs.
Sounds like you have a gfci outlet or breaker somewhere that is tripped.
I had a similar problem that turned out to be a table lamp with a short that would trip half the wall plugs.
A bad wall plug outlet can do the same thing.
You don't have to live with factory wiring. I have disconnected a wire I could not follow or test and simply ran a separate wire. I have also run a wire just for temporary testing.
Sounds like you have a gfci outlet or breaker somewhere that is tripped.
I had a similar problem that turned out to be a table lamp with a short that would trip half the wall plugs.
A bad wall plug outlet can do the same thing.
You don't have to live with factory wiring. I have disconnected a wire I could not follow or test and simply ran a separate wire. I have also run a wire just for temporary testing.
