1995 Mallard (by Fleetwood) 29S

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450foreman04

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Jul 8, 2017
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Hello all!  First time posting...  We just upgraded from a pop up to our first travel trailer.  Anyway, when I hooked up the city water it would just run out a drain in the back. There are 2 of them and from doing some research I believe they are the low point drains for winterizing.  Everything I read says there should be a valve to close them.  I cannot find a valve anywhere!  The owners manual doesn't mention those drains at all.  The drains are threaded on the end.  Could it just be that I need to install a plug?  Is that all it takes?  It appears that these drains are directly under the bathroom sink (looks like a T from the inside).  Any help would be appreciated!  Thanks in advance.
 
I suspect you are correct about the low point drain.  The cap may be lost or buried somewhere.  Go to HD, Lowes, or local hardware and get 4 or 5 of them.  They are cheap, and spares are always nice for you or a nearby camper.
 
I think the Preacher hit the nail on the head. I'm sure there are different cap sizes that are used, but the ones I have run across, all were 1/2" pipe thread. You can also install a valve instead of a cap. That can be as simple as using a threaded valve hanging off the existing fittings, to installing bulkhead mounted valves on the skirting of your RV.
 
Plugs were all that were needed!  After your posts I didn't feel so crazy about trying the plugs.  They are the same fit as my boat plug so I gave that a try.  Worked perfect!  Thanks.  I'd probably still be looking for valves  ;) 

Since posting the first time was such a big help I've got a couple other questions...  I can't get the hot water heater or the furnace to turn on.  The burners do though.  I'm thinking they just need some cleaning but is there anything else I could be missing?  Also, the fridge isn't working.  The people we bought it from said it worked (I'd like to think most people are still honest).  It's a Dometic.  When I turn it on, the CHECK light instantly comes on.  The camper is plugged into power so even if the propane was the issue it should still work.  Should there be a switch to move from electric to propane?  My parents camper when I was a kid had a switch, but I can't seem to find one.  Thanks again everyone.  I really appreciate the help on this new to us camper!
 
Also, the fridge isn't working.  The people we bought it from said it worked (I'd like to think most people are still honest).  It's a Dometic.  When I turn it on, the CHECK light instantly comes on.
Click to expand...

Check the position of the "Auto" button. The fridge should default to the electric mode if the "Auto" button is in the auto (operated) position. If the fridge jumps directly into the propane mode with the button in Auto, (Check light and Gas indicator light) then it is not detecting the fact you are plugged in. (The Check light is the 'failure to light' indicator while in Propane or Gas mode.)

The fridge is plugged into power at the back of the fridge and that location is accessible through the inspection door on the outside behind the fridge. Test that outlet to be sure it is actually live.

If it is, there are several small fuses located in a black box on the back of the fridge. The fuse under J5 is the 120V supply to be tested.


Let us know the results and also please include the model number (usually found on a paper label just inside the door of the fridge). We can tackle the "failure to light" in gas mode later as well as the water heater and the furnace. Are you familiar with the procedure required to light these gas appliances by any chance???
 
Is your 12v system working?
Battery good?
Battery connected? Might be a battery disconnect switch. Battery charger working?
Check 12v fuses. Propane fridge and stove need 12v to run.
 
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