Refrigerator not working

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Pitboss

New member
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
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3
Hello, I have a Dometic refrigerator that will not run on electric. Last trip we had a power surge that knocked out the converter, microwave and refrigerator. I've replaced the the converter and have a new microwave on order. The refrigerator works fine on LP but will not cool on electric. I've replaced a 3A fuse that was blown on the board and confirmed 118 volts at the plug. The 5A fuse on the board is good as is the inline thermal fuse. The schematic show another fuse that I have yet to locate. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Take a meter and check the heater voltage at the control board where it goes to the heater, if you have 120V then check the continuity between the wires going to the heater.  If you have no continuity buy a new heater.

Denny
 
Pitboss said:
Hello, I have a Dometic refrigerator that will not run on electric. Last trip we had a power surge that knocked out the converter, microwave and refrigerator. I've replaced the the converter and have a new microwave on order. The refrigerator works fine on LP but will not cool on electric. I've replaced a 3A fuse that was blown on the board and confirmed 118 volts at the plug. The 5A fuse on the board is good as is the inline thermal fuse. The schematic show another fuse that I have yet to locate. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Pitboss
Have the electronic control board for the refrigerator tested.
(I suspect the power surge that "knocked out" the converter and microwave also "knocked out" that control board).
BTW most RV places, (and mobile RV techs), have a board tester...(some test boards at no charge).

 
Time to buy a surge protector in case it happens again. I'd highly recommend a Progressive Industries. They are warrantied for life if they fail because of a surge.
 
Thanks for your replies. I tested the board where the heater plugs in. Nothing.  No reading at all. Should I conclude that the board is fried?
Thanks again for the help!
 
Very sad to hear how the OP's Dometic was zapped.  I have now read enough of these strings on this or that being destroyed by a surge or the like that I ponied up last week for my 50AMP Progressive. It looks relatively straightforward to install if I can figure out how to route the display to the inside of the coach. 
 
Pitboss said:
Thanks for your replies. I tested the board where the heater plugs in. Nothing.  No reading at all. Should I conclude that the board is fried?
Thanks again for the help!

Probably took out the relay coil on the board, the 120v goes into the board through the fuse and relay right back out, you need a new board.

Denny
 
If you do need a new board consider a Dinosaur brand board. Always had great luck with them, more options and lower price.
 
Pitboss said:
Thanks for your replies. I tested the board where the heater plugs in. Nothing.  No reading at all.
Should I conclude that the board is fried?

Thanks again for the help!

Pitboss
I suggest you have your board tested....(unless you are positive that "nothing, no reading at all" proves that your board is fried).

Having your board tested could save you $60-80.
 
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