Half ton truck towing with LT tires

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Maury82

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Jul 10, 2017
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Hello fellow RVers, I am new to this forum but have been lurking for for over a year, and my question is specifically for half ton TVs towing a trailer in the 8,000 plus lbs range.  I just purchase a 8,300 lbs dry weight/10,000 gross weight, 37 ft long TT, and I'm purchasing a 2018 F150 EB CC with the Max Towing package (11,500 lbs tow/2,400 lbs payload), so I will be well within capacities for the vehicle, and since my payload will primarily consist of me, and my girlfriend at times, my payload will be pretty light.

I want to hear from those half ton TV owners, who have changed their factory tires from P rated, to LT tires, and how does the upgrade enhanced the stability of your towing experience?  I believe that with the Blue Ox Sway Pro I purchased, and an upgrade to LT tires, that the stability of towing this TT with the TV will be a very comfortable towing experience, even when being passed by tractor trailers, and in breezy conditions. 

Over the years, I've learn an awful lot of insights and information regarding RVing from this forum, but after reading post after post about how many members try to steer newbies with the very smallest TTs to very large 250 or larger TVs, I began to take those advice with a grain of salt, and the bias against the most capable half tons were very apparent, so if I find out I need a larger 3/4 ton TV, it would have to come from my personal experience after towing with LT tires.


Thanks in advance.

 
I bought a 1999 Silverado 1500 in 2003. New tires were part of the deal and I insisted on LTs. It didn't mean much when we had a 3,500 lb pop-up but it made a world of difference in my opinion when we upgraded to a 7,000 lb TT. Looking back we were right at or possibly over the truck's limits but it towed well and was very stable.
 
LT tires do help some. On that 11,500 lbs tow/2,000 lbs payload, that's from a brochure I'm sure. You may be surprised at the difference when you get your truck. There's the stuff they print in brochures, and then there's the real world numbers that are displayed on the infamous yellow sticker on each individual truck. I'm not too much into being a weight policeman, and I don't get carried away to the point that I would have you convinced that you need a 1 ton diesel dually just to get a 20# bag of dog food from the store, but I think you may be disappointed in the handling of that trailer. I'm also one of the folks that understand that 1/2 ton trucks have come a long way. Your individual truck may be able to handle the weight of that trailer, but 37' is a lot of trailer behind a 1/2 ton. The sail effect is what's going to bother you. I'm not familiar with that Blue Ox WDH, and it may do an admirable job, but you may end up a Henseley or Pro Pride hitch to control your trailer. Either way, enjoy your new rig. BTW, we're waiting on the pics! 8)
 
Thank you very much for the input.  My perceptions are a large heavy hauling, big is better persona surrounding trucks may be driving the push for 3/4 or larger truck for anything over 6,000 lbs, even if the trailer is far below the capabilities of the 1/2 ton TV, but I'm convinced that there are untapped potential and towing  enhancements in terms of stability and braking of 1/2 towing TTs, yet of all the forums I've read, I can't recall any member advising newbies to swap out P rated tires for LTs, add performance pads/rotors, etc. Instead, members attempt to scare the crap out of newbies with impending  gloom and doom.

Those soft and comfortable P rated tires have to be horrible for towing stability when towing a long and heavy TT, and I'm not even going to try it with this trailer...no way. I can imagine my anti-sway struggling to keep those soft sidewall tires from flexing from side to side as the wind push against a long trailer.

I'm hanging my hat on a good anti-sway setup and stiffer LT tires are the secret to towing within capacity with a long and heavy TT.

Trust me when I say this, if I find out that you really do need a 3/4 ton at this weight,  I will be the first one posting a warning, and at the dealership upgrading my truck. Besides towing, I have little interest of driving or little need for a truck, and until I got my trailer,  I never wanted to own one, so when I'm not towing, a truck would basically be driven to keep the battery charged.



 
imho: you are pushing your luck with that setup -- that TT is too big for an F150 without the HDPP (Max Towing doesn't beef up the truck).

Your tongue weight is going to be over 1200lbs so you really need to look at the yellow sticker payload rating of the actual truck you will be buying and start your calculations from there.

LT tires and a very good WDH with anti-sway are a must if you proceed. But I bet the sag is going to be an issue when you hook up so consider a set of Timbrens to help out the rear springs. And you aren't going to like the OEM shocks that come with that truck.

fyi: https://www.f150forum.com has lots of posts on the problems towing with new F150s

 
Wood said:
I'm hanging my hat on a good anti-sway setup and stiffer LT tires are the secret to towing within capacity with a long and heavy TT.

Get ready to pick up your hat from the floor because the first part of the equation requires a TV that has enough weight, strength, and stability to pull the desired load.  Those things don't appear from tires, and sway control.
They come from a properly engineered vehicle that can tow the load without those items.  The changes, additions you are making will enhance a properly fitted TV, not turn it into something it isn't.

This is not about bigger is better.  It's about bigger is a better fit.  You can either takes this advice or find out for yourself.

 
I'm in the same camp as kdbgoat. Not everybody needs a 1-ton  for towing, but a 37 ft, 10,000 lb GVWR trailer is asking an awful lot of that truck.  Even though it may technically be within its specs. The advice to look at the yellow weight sticker on the specific truck is also wise.  The vehicle weight goes up  after you select trim options and features, while the GCWR and GVWR stays the same, so both tow rating and payload decrease  vs the advertised max.  However, you've made your bet and I won't belabor you further about it.

I don't see the 12,000 lb trailer rating in anything except the regular cab model - the Supercab and Supercrew are both lower per the F150 website. You might be looking at 10,700 or 11,600 instead. Payload goes down in the bigger cab models too.

The LT tires are certainly a plus for handling heavy loads. The Blue Ox Sway Pro sounds fine in their ads, but they don't have much of any track record in the WD and anti-sway field, so who knows?  I would be more inclined toward a well-recognized top brand such as Equal-I-Zer or Reese Strait-line Dual Cam.  And a Pro-Pride or Hensley Arrow would be even better, despite the hefty price tag. They are hard to beat when a huge trailer starts pushing the tow vehicle around.
 
The truck I'm looking to purchase will definitely have the ratings to tow my TT, and it will have the HDPP, which increase the payload from the basic 2,000 lbs payload.  The configuration I'm looking into (XLT, 4X4, EB, CC, Long Bed, Max Towing and HDPP package) 11,400 towing/2,400 payload.  That is more than enough specification to meet the rating for the trailer.

I'm not concern about merely meeting the ratings, but enhancing the performance and towing experience while within the specification, and ratings of the truck, I have not read anything in specific why the towing performance can not be enhanced.  Of course you can't change the capacity of the truck, but you can enhance the way it tows (airbags), stops (better brakes,rotors, shocks), and behaves (LT tires, etc) while towing within it's capacity.

@Gary RV_Wizard, I already ordered the Blue Ox Sway Pro with the 1,500 ratings, so I will give that a shot first.

@God's Country, the TV has the ratings and engineering from the factory, and my TT is within those limits, but I definitely understand your point with the specs... thanks.

One reason why I wanted to hear from someone who has actually towed a heavy TT within the ratings of their 1/2 tons which had upgraded tires, brakes, shocks, etc, is because I wanted to hear the specifics of how much, or whether those enhancement made much of a difference, especially regarding to windy conditions.  So far, I've only read comments from guys who basically say "6,000 lbs or 30 ft TT, get more truck or smaller trailer", and to me, that isn't saying much at all as to why the towing experience can't be enhanced with towing a certain size TT when it is within the legal weight ratings of the TV. 

I learned an awful lot about what to prepare for, and what to expect out of owning an RV, but I picked up very little regarding why I needed a huge and much more expensive 2/3 ton truck to tow a TT when it is well within the rating and specification of a capable 1/2 ton truck.

I really do appreciated the feedback... and thanks.
 
massspike said:
imho: you are pushing your luck with that setup -- that TT is too big for an F150 without the HDPP (Max Towing doesn't beef up the truck).

Your tongue weight is going to be over 1200lbs so you really need to look at the yellow sticker payload rating of the actual truck you will be buying and start your calculations from there.

LT tires and a very good WDH with anti-sway are a must if you proceed. But I bet the sag is going to be an issue when you hook up so consider a set of Timbrens to help out the rear springs. And you aren't going to like the OEM shocks that come with that truck.

fyi: https://www.f150forum.com has lots of posts on the problems towing with new F150s

I agree with that assessment massspike, and without the HDPP, upgrade shocks (if factory shocks are too soft), brakes, and LT tires, I would not attempt a tow, even with the Max Towing package.  I know GM put LT tires on their Silverado with the Max Trailering Package, but I'm not sure Ford does with their Max Towing/HDPP package, but once the 2018 starts to arrive, and I began the purchasing process, I will find out soon enough.
 
Here's one testimonial. It's a van, not a pick-up, but same principal.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,106282.msg956936.html#msg956936

 
kdbgoat said:
Here's one testimonial. It's a van, not a pick-up, but same principal.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,106282.msg956936.html#msg956936


Thanks for the link

 
Wood said:
I agree with that assessment massspike, and without the HDPP, upgrade shocks (if factory shocks are too soft), brakes, and LT tires, I would not attempt a tow, even with the Max Towing package.  I know GM put LT tires on their Silverado with the Max Trailering Package, but I'm not sure Ford does with their Max Towing/HDPP package, but once the 2018 starts to arrive, and I began the purchasing process, I will find out soon enough.

I believe the HDPP shocks are heavy duty and should do the job. I would be shocked that the HDPP package didn't come with LT tires and the only HDPP (a 2010) I've seen up close had the 250's axles/wheels so it would be really dumb for Ford to put P rated tires on those.

F150's w/HDPP are a bit rare but the guy (in the next camp site) who I chatted with was towing a trailer of the size you are considering. He was using a Centreline WDH. He was not having problems.

Since you are going HDPP you can probably ignore my recommendation for Timbrens as you will have an upgraded leaf spring. They wouldn't hurt but would probably barely/rarely engage. You can always add them after you see what happens to the rear when you drop the fully loaded trailer on it (fwiw: my 7000lb trailer just drops my F150 onto the Timbrens so they are in use 100% of the time when towing).
 
I upgraded to lt coopers put better springs in the back just made a trip a week ago with 60 klm winds about 40 mph either than getting 6 mpgs it handled well oh my trailer is 8293 lbs scaled
 
Appreciate the input you guys. 

I believe GM/Ford designed their 1/2 ton trucks with added towing and hauling capability for a reason, and I believe my TT falls within that range.

The F250 would provide a better tow, especially the diesel, but I don't believe it's required for safe towing, but at a huge cost. The new F250 5.0 w/the ten speed would work, but it would pull worse than the 3.5 EB.

I'm working on a retired law enforcement pension with a home mortgage, so my pockets aren't bottomless. :)


 
Wood,

Not sure why  you posted the original question? You seem prepared to defend, to the last pound ;) ;), your decision to go with the half-tonner.

I towed my first trailer 44 years ago, still tow stuff, had TT, 5th wheels, Class A, 400,000 miles driving a semi etc and there is no way I would tow a 37 foot anything with a half-ton pickup. Is a 3/4 ton that much more in cost? I would not know as I had sticker shock the last time I walked through the Chevy dealer's lot.

Either way, try to keep an open mind on this and be careful.

 
This subject comes up quite often on this forum. I think some folks ask the towing question for confirmation they are doing the right thing. I noticed a lot of you on this forum have rigs that are 5, 8, 10 years old and some that are as old 1999, 1998. There's a reason for this. RV's and tow vehicles are freakin expensive. A new truck can go for $60K or more. You can have $100K or more in your RV hobby. It's one thing if you are living in the RV but how many of us can afford a house and a $100K RV as a hobby? I think that's why some are willing to push the limit on tow ratings. I have a 2015 Nissan Quest with a tow rating of 3500lbs. Our little Winnie Drop weighs about 2400lbs dry and a loaded weight of 3800lbs. I didn't like the way the Quest pulled it, although it was well within its limits since we would never carry 1400lbs of stuff. I bought a 2016 Nissan Frontier with a tow rating of 6100lbs. Tows the Drop just fine. We have $42,000 tied up in TV and TT. We can upgrade to larger RV if we want and we have looked. But the Drop is paid for and I told my wife for how many times we use it per year, I think we should just keep it and be happy. So, I think it comes down to cost. Some folks trim that $100+K down by buying used (or really used) and some by purchasing a smaller TV.
 
I have a 2012 f250 4x4 with a 3,400 payload and will tow more then I ever intend.  I paid <$18,000 with 50,000
miles.  It's a regular cab, and a basic work truck.....I know gasp. ::)  It's a truck get over it.  Trucks are 60k because people want them to ride like a Cadillac, carry passengers like an SUV, and have every ridiculous gadget ever conjured, and tow a tank (because they did it in the commercial).  The point is we have choices, and make them.  I prefer the right tool for the right job.  And I can promises you I earn many time less then a retired leo with shallow pockets.
 
I know your mind was made before you posted, but allow me to add a few facts.

I did go to the 2017 Ford specs page.  The numbers on those GENERIC spec pages fairly well matched your numbers, with one exception.  I know you are looking at 2018 models, but for 2017, Ford does not offer an 8 ft box with a crew cab on the F150.  (Regular bed is 6.5 ft box, Long bed is 8 ft box,  Short bed is 5.5 ft box)

As others have said, ANY ? ton truck pulling a 10,000#, 37 ft TT SAFELY is the definition of oxymoron.  That 10,000# TT will be pushing that 7600# truck all over the road, regardless of tires, WD hitch, upgraded shocks or any other upgrade.  You would be well within weight limits towing 10,000# of concrete blocks on a flat bed trailer.  THAT can be done safely!  That 37 ft long by 8 ft tall sail (296 sq. ft.)will catch the wind and push you all over!

Here is the dirty little secret the dealer will not tell you about published weights.  The PUBLISHED payload is specific to that cab, box, drivetrain combination, but it does NOT include the added weight of ANY options, which must be deducted pound for pound from the Payload.  The Yellow Label on the driver door latch pillar is correct as the vehicle left the factory.  By this chart, for a given configuration, the Payload for a bare bones XL and a fully dressed "Texas Cadillac" Platinum trim are the same.  BALONEY!!!!

Likewise Max tow is specific to a configuration, BUT it starts with the base weight, plus Max Tow package, plus a full tank of fuel, plus 2 passengers at 150# each.  This is subtracted from GCWR, and you have Max Tow!!!!  It does NOT include the weight of any options, any additional passengers, no  cargo at all, and not even a hitch!  That is why it is called MAX tow, not actual tow!

Why a new truck?  There are lots of F150 and F250 priced well below this new truck with lots of life left in them.  I bought a F350 last year, 3 years old (2013) SuperCab, long box, 4X4 Lariat Diesel  A new 2016 just like it had a $66,000 sticker.  I paid $42,000, and the truck only had 3660 miles on it!! It even smelled new!  I just turned 8100 miles tonight.  Great deals are out there, but you must be willing to dig for them!

Your proposed truck will have no problem at all pulling that camper, but can it handle a side wind or a passing truck?  Can it control and stop the TT in an emergency?  Can it stop the rig if you lose TT brakes?  Going down a steep hill?  Are you willing to bet your life and the lives of your family it will never be tested?
 
BRex said:
Wood,

Not sure why  you posted the original question? You seem prepared to defend, to the last pound ;) ;), your decision to go with the half-tonner.

I towed my first trailer 44 years ago, still tow stuff, had TT, 5th wheels, Class A, 400,000 miles driving a semi etc and there is no way I would tow a 37 foot anything with a half-ton pickup. Is a 3/4 ton that much more in cost? I would not know as I had sticker shock the last time I walked through the Chevy dealer's lot.

Either way, try to keep an open mind on this and be careful.

You bet I will keep an open mind, especially If I find myself in a situation I'm not comfortable with... I would turn right around and park it.
 
grashley said:
I know your mind was made before you posted, but allow me to add a few facts.

I did go to the 2017 Ford specs page.  The numbers on those GENERIC spec pages fairly well matched your numbers, with one exception.  I know you are looking at 2018 models, but for 2017, Ford does not offer an 8 ft box with a crew cab on the F150.  (Regular bed is 6.5 ft box, Long bed is 8 ft box,  Short bed is 5.5 ft box)

As others have said, ANY ? ton truck pulling a 10,000#, 37 ft TT SAFELY is the definition of oxymoron.  That 10,000# TT will be pushing that 7600# truck all over the road, regardless of tires, WD hitch, upgraded shocks or any other upgrade.  You would be well within weight limits towing 10,000# of concrete blocks on a flat bed trailer.  THAT can be done safely!  That 37 ft long by 8 ft tall sail (296 sq. ft.)will catch the wind and push you all over!

Here is the dirty little secret the dealer will not tell you about published weights.  The PUBLISHED payload is specific to that cab, box, drivetrain combination, but it does NOT include the added weight of ANY options, which must be deducted pound for pound from the Payload.  The Yellow Label on the driver door latch pillar is correct as the vehicle left the factory.  By this chart, for a given configuration, the Payload for a bare bones XL and a fully dressed "Texas Cadillac" Platinum trim are the same.  BALONEY!!!!

Likewise Max tow is specific to a configuration, BUT it starts with the base weight, plus Max Tow package, plus a full tank of fuel, plus 2 passengers at 150# each.  This is subtracted from GCWR, and you have Max Tow!!!!  It does NOT include the weight of any options, any additional passengers, no  cargo at all, and not even a hitch!  That is why it is called MAX tow, not actual tow!

Why a new truck?  There are lots of F150 and F250 priced well below this new truck with lots of life left in them.  I bought a F350 last year, 3 years old (2013) SuperCab, long box, 4X4 Lariat Diesel  A new 2016 just like it had a $66,000 sticker.  I paid $42,000, and the truck only had 3660 miles on it!! It even smelled new!  I just turned 8100 miles tonight.  Great deals are out there, but you must be willing to dig for them!

Your proposed truck will have no problem at all pulling that camper, but can it handle a side wind or a passing truck?  Can it control and stop the TT in an emergency?  Can it stop the rig if you lose TT brakes?  Going down a steep hill?  Are you willing to bet your life and the lives of your family it will never be tested?

Actually, my mind was practically made up after I read the specs and rating of this particular truck, and the reason why I posted, was I wanted the input of 1/2 ton TV owners who have experienced the difference with towing a TT with LT tires, and how did those changes effect the towing experience.  I already knew from reading over the years the various comments from 3/4 ton truck owners, and what their perspectives were, which didn't convince me that I needed a heavier truck for this weight trailer. Two posters gave good feedback, because I wanted perspectives of how LT tires enhanced their tow.


I've been doing a lot of reading regarding the various configurations and weight of trucks, and the sticker/options/passengers, etc, adding to, and deducting from published weight were known for years before thinking about buying a truck or an RV.  My readings were regarding the specifics of the truck that I think will do the job, i.e, axle ratio, auxiliary transmission and radiator cooler, heavy duty spring shocks and hitch capacities, etc.

I think you guys mean well and have good intentions, and believe me, you guys have helped me out a heck of a lot in so many areas, but of all the time I've been lurking on these boards, and reading the advice that was given to others, I don't think you guys actually know what will happen if I towed this rig with this setup.  I think you guys got a good grasp of what would happen if someone tries to tow this TT with the popular optioned geared, softly sprung, P rated tired F-150 off the lot... I believe what you would say regarding certain adverse handling problems with that setup.  The only off the lot 1/2 truck that has a chance of towing and having a decent enough payload rating with this trailer, is the Tundra DC (9,900 lbs tow/1,680 payload), but the hitch rating is too low.

I don't know whether you guys know about GM and Ford having a 1/2 ton with enhance payload and towing ratings, and added equipment to achieve the higher ratings, or you guys just don't acknowledge them even being any capable than the off the lot popular 1/2 tons with the under 9,000 lbs towing/payload ratings.  The truck has a very good rating with both towing capacity, engineered factory upgrades specifically built for towing more than the off the lot models with  and a good 2,400 lbs payload.  You guys are throwing this truck in that same "6,000 lbs, 30 ft long" pile as the off the lot 1/2 tons, and I believe they enhance this truck for a reason, and I'm convinced my 8,300 lbs dry/10,000 lbs TT fits in that sweet spot of too much for the off the lot 1/2 tons, but not needing the 3/4 tons.

Not trying to offend anyone, but personally, I think you guys are blindly throwing darts against the wall with speculation, and I'm not convinced at all that you guys really know how such a truck equipped from the factory will tow this weight and length TT.  I know it will not tow the same as an equal spec F250... and I believe that, but I'm betting it will pull better than a F-250 5.O, and have the stability and breaking a half step behind the F250, but definitely far in towing experience than the off the lot 150s.  If it is a bit windy out, I will slow down a bit, but I'm not convinced that passing truckers and a brisk wind will have this setup all over the road.

grashley, I don't want to pay for a used or new 3/4 ton truck, even at the price of a new 1/2 ton, but if I discover that I need an upgrade, I would turn my rig around  in mid trip, and park it while I shop for a heavy duty TV.  My daily driver is a Honda Accord, and outside of towing this TT, I have never been enthused about driving trucks, so it would get limited use outside of needing it to tow. 
 
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