Questions about this motorhome

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sierrasue123

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2016
Posts
49
Hi all,
I am still looking for a motorhome. Was looking smaller but saw this and it seems like a great deal.
Questions. It says 26 ft. Would this rig be hard to get into small campgrounds??
What kind of gas mileage would it get. Maybe someone has an estimate??
http://reno.craigslist.org/rvs/6211961073.html
Thanks, Susan
 
it looks like a winner! but needs a pro to inspect it for you.
it will fit in any campground that has a suitable road to reach it.
mileage will depend on your foot and the terrain but will probably be between 8 and 12 mpg .if you you are worried about gas mileage rving is not for you because most of them suck at mpg
 
As far as motorhomes go, 26-foot IS what I would consider a smaller model.  They don't get much shorter than that, especially for Class A.  Once you get accustomed to maneuvering any rig, getting in and out of spaces isn't all that tough.  I rarely had problems with my 35-foot Class A, except when I went down campground roads clearly designed for smaller trailers (that happened once).  ;)

That CG ad looks pretty solid, some time went into it and there are lots of good photos.  Not-old tires and roof reseal are certainly nice features on a used rig.  I'd check NADAguides.com (click on the "RV" tab and follow the prompts for year/make/model) to compare market pricing to that seller's asking price.

Mileage is kind of a non-factor with RV'ing... NONE of them are fuel efficient.  The average gas motorhome will get between 7-8 mpg's over time.  But remember you don't drive an RV nearly as much as you park it, so fuel mileage is not usually a huge factor (compared to your daily driver for instance).

It all comes down to budget/floorplan/condition of that rig, and how those aspects match your wants & needs.
 
If you're looking for a short class A, that would be it. Didn't think they even made them that short anymore. Looks to be in good shape, and the price isn't too bad. The thing is, the difference between that one and a 30 fter is just the length. It won't be any easier to drive or park, fuel mileage will likely be the same too. 
 
Let me start this by saying I have a 2002 28 ft Safari Trek built on the same P32 chassis as the one you are looking at,  this is the 8.1L Vortec mated to a Chevy 4L80E 4 speed overdrive transmission,  being a 2005 (the last year of the P32 chassis whose heritage goes back to 1969) this one will have the beefed up 4L85E.    Mine at 28 ft is built on the slightly larger 17,000 pound GVWR chassis with the 178 inch wheel base, vs the 15,000 GVWR 157 inch wheel base.    One advantage of the shorter / lighter chassis is that it likely will not have the dreaded failure prone J71 automatic parking brake.    I strongly considered the 26 ft version of the Safari Trek on the P32 chassis when I was shopping for mine, but ended up opting for the 28 ft, mostly due to nearly 1,000 pounds more cargo capacity than the 26 ft, also reports online say the 157 inch wheel base can be a bit more touchy driving.

Having said that you will read a lot of negative stuff online about the handling of the P32 chassis,  in the 1990's motorhomes were getting heavier and heavier, mostly due to the addition of slides, gasoline coaches were also getting longer, and simply put the P32 chassis was not up to the task, therefore Workhorse introduced the stouter W series chassis in about 2003 and began to phase out the P32 series.  Now with some suspension upgrades a short (sub 30 ft) P32 can handle just fine, mine has about $3,800 worth of suspension upgrades (about $2,600 of which were done by the previous owner since 2014) and on a calm day on smooth pavement it will cruise along at 65-70 mph (not that I suggest doing so) without effort.    Over 70 mph requires a bit more attention and reaction speed than I care to maintain.  The big likely must do or must do soon upgrades if they have not already been done are:    Super Steer Bell Cranks (the factory ones may well be shot even with the low mileage, online reports suggest they have about a  25,000 mile life before developing excessive play), another MUST do is a front sway bar spreader bar, when Workhorse widened the front end in 2001 with the introduction of the 8.1L Vortec engine they kept the same inner mount points for the front sway bar, this design flaw resulted in many people reporting sheering off the front mounting bolts.    This spreader bar costs about $200 and can be installed with hand tools in a couple of hours (took me maybe 3, but I had to remove and reinstall my safe-t plus, which is another good addition).      Adding to that most people will say a rear trac bar is a must, mine had one when I bought it, so can't say how  it drives without it.    Also at this age all rubber parts should be suspect (belts, hoses, rubber bushings, etc.) this includes the sway bar bushings, and bushings in the steering linkage.    I changed out my rear sway bar bushings last month, at 16 years of age the ruber bushings were at the end of their life (I installed poly bushings), a  previous owner had already done this for the front end.  In addition the above mentioned items I also have Sumo Solo airless springs in the back (helped with sway), Koni FSD shocks (my factory shocks had 75,000 miles on them, still had some life left, but the FSD's are  better and eliminated the porposing I felt on humps in the road, also the front helper airbags have been replaced, I don't know the brand, but the new ones are red.

Finally I feel the price is a bit high even if in very good condition, this was a entry - mid level coach when new, even in great condition I could not see paying more than $22,000 and that is stretching it, I paid $20,500 for my 2002 Trek last year from a private seller, and it had over $10,000 in parts added since 2014 (fridge, carpet, all new leather seating, $2,600 in suspension work, tires, batteries, 400 watts of solar panels, smart charger/pure sine wave inverter, ....
 
sierrasue123 said:
Hi all,
I am still looking for a motor home. Was looking smaller but saw this and it seems like a great deal.
Questions. It says 26 ft. Would this rig be hard to get into small campgrounds??
What kind of gas mileage would it get. Maybe someone has an estimate??
http://reno.craigslist.org/rvs/6211961073.html
Thanks, Susan

CAREFUL!! Craig's List is is well known for scams on RV's and other things. If it is too good to be true, it may well be....

Inspect it in person, put no money down until seen and verified.  Nice looking coach though!!!

FWIW:
http://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2005/Fiesta-by-Fleetwood/M-26Q-Workhorse/3041630/Values
 
Alfa38User said:
CAREFUL!! Craig's List is is well known for scams on RV's and other things. If it is too good to be true, it may well be....

Very true, and caution is a good thing.  But I browse hundreds of Craigslist ads daily (and bought/sold both my RV's there, also two cars and loads of other smaller stuff) and can spot the fake/scam ads almost instantly.  This Reno ad looks legit, but of course in-person inspections should always be done, and lots of questions asked when spending this much money on something.

The forum has some pretty detailed past threads on smart ways to use Craigslist and other online services, but with CG here are the common indicators of scam-bait:

- Limited photos and limited information in the ad text
- Poor English/grammar in subject or ad text, that suggests a non-English speaking "seller"
- Price that is WAY too good to be true, such as $5500 for this Class A
- An out-of-area phone number that encourages you to text only
- If you do make contact via e-mail (they will almost never talk on phone or meet in person), they want payment by Western Union
- Unlikely story about moving out of the country, someone dying, etc. that requires immediate sale "to your benefit" ::)
- They want to ship you the item (an RV? haha) using some shipping service, again not allowing you to view in person

If any combination of those factors are in place, it's probably a fake ad.  Use common sense and only deal in person, meet in public places like a bank (where funds can be verified) or police department during daytime hours (many have surveillance cameras in place) which is pretty common nowadays.
 
Thanks for the opinions and some very informative information from Isaac-1

Yes, I am familiar with the scams. I saw a great looking Roadtrek that was just that. To good to be true. In some far off little town. Priced so possibly someone would buy it sight unseen and then they would ship it to you after you pay thru Ebay (which would supposedly protect you ) . I told some friends about it and they said "sounds legit" but I said , no , sounds like a scam to me. Amazing that they would have fell for it.
I then later read that the same scam was going around on craigslist.

Anyways, this one looks legit. However , I am concerned about the upkeep of this rig and the cost that would go into it. I know there is upkeep with all RVS though. I am most likely wrong here but feel like the upkeep would be more on a class A. I have been looking smaller like Roadtrek or class c 20 foot (altho those are hard to find ) , and not looking real hard now cause I am house sitting a lot.
 
I've owned class As for 20 years. The upkeep don't cost no more than it does an a class C, but the larger the coach the more to keep. When you cross the line to diesel is when the cost rises, sharply.
 
sierrasue123 said:
I know there is upkeep with all RVS though.

^ Nothing could be more true.  ;)  For ANY motorhome ownership, you've gotta be willing to tinker sometimes... otherwise you'll constantly be frustrated by the small issues that come up, and/or it will be very expensive if you are requiring professional service calls for every little thing.

I don't think there is any substantial difference between upkeep on Class C's versus Class A's.  They are the same basic setup, same appliances, same power plants, just on different sized frames... Class C on a van chassis, Class A on a big truck chassis.
 
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