Yay---the Norcold is GONE!

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oediehl

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2017
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12
The Samsung RF18 was a little too tall for the spot of the vacated Norcold, and so I removed the drawer below and cut out its supporting cabinetry. Then I installed a new fridge floor, using ~3/4" plywood, which needed to extend a couple inches beyond the face of the cabinetry (the fridge is in a slide). I stapled a bit of 'stainless' colored carpet over the bit of plywood that was visible at the front of the fridge, and removed the the front leveler feet of the fridge and replaced them with M8 bolts (2.75" or 3" long), and screwed those from top to bottom through the brackets that previously held the leveling feet. The M8 bolts went through holes drilled in the plywood floor, as well as aluminum angle brackets custom trimmed (by me---aluminum is easy) to fit under the plywood floor (1st pic).

Then I trimmed some bits of wood to snug-fit either side of the fridge, pressed them into place with a bit of Gorilla Glue between the shims and the cabinetry, and let that dry overnight (2nd pic). That should eliminate any side-to-side rocking while on the raod.

I drew up a simple diagram of the 3 pieces of trim (with dimensions penciled in) that I needed to conceal the gaps to either side and at the top of the fridge, took that to a local cabinet shop, and a couple days later picked up my new maple molding ($25), and drilled and nailed it in place (after a bit of Golden Maple Minwax stain). A little wipe-on Minwax Poly finish, and we now have a beautiful  new fridge that will hold its temperature even when outdoor temps are flirting or exceeding the century mark.

Prior to the installation I installed an Aims 1200 watt power inverter in the rig's 'basement', found the specific length of romex that fed only the refrigerator outlet and connected that to the inverter's output, and wired it so that the inverter had both 110 and 12V inputs. It will automatically switch between 110V and 12V-inverted-output depending on whether or not 110 is available as shore-power or Onan generator-sourced. We will only be inverting 12V DC when we are traveling from campground to campground, and I think the two house batteries, plus the two tow vehicle batteries with an alternator charging, will be sufficient for those times.

Hallelujah; the Norcol is forever gone!
 

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Awesome job. You'll be so much happier.
Don't forget to come up with a way to tie the doors shut during travel.
 
Do you think it's really necessary to have a door-retainer? Ours is a big rig (41') with MorRyde suspension; stuff doesn't seem to move around much when we drive.
 
The first time you lose a gallon of milk all over the floor when you go around a corner you might change your mind about needing a safety retainer.
 

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Inertia rules, even in a smooth riding coach. My guess is that both the doors and the freezer drawer will open in some turns. Perhaps not often, but even once can be a disastrous (see Ernie's comment). I would suggest at least a bungy cord around the door handles. The freezer may open, but nothing will spill and you can just slide it back shut.
 
HueyPilotVN said:
The first time you lose a gallon of milk all over the floor when you go around a corner you might change your mind about needing a safety retainer.

or scrambled eggs
 
Great mod! Everyone that has done it loves it. No more soft ice cream or warm milk!  MY DW has told me that she will never have another rig with a gas refer. I have to agree.
 
On the other hand I've parked on sites where I did not even have enough electriity to run my Absorption Fridge. So I ran it on Propane.. Beats spoiled food or buying ice.

I would put a simple hasp lock on the fridge so you can positively lock it closed,,  I had to do that with cabinets and drawers in this RV as many would open when going round a corner.. Some damage happend.. So I now lock all cabnets and most drawers when moving.
 
Nice job!  Didn't you have to remove the windshield to get this in?  I figure that replacing mine would have to wait for that day when my windshield will be damaged.
 
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