PCMatters
New member
First time MH owner. Mech inclined (luckily) and also have no money so I gotta roll up my sleeves.
I purchased my Bounder 39Z DP, March of 2017 to live in full-time.
I bought a go-power 120watt portable solar system that I'm in process of upgrading to a 1Kw with a very expensive battery pack. I want to run one A.C off solar.
It has a Onan QD 7500 that I normally can't start without pressing and holding the Aux By-Pass button. But it does start right up and run without issues 95% of the time. Sometimes it dies 3 times in a row after a few mins and then runs fine for 100's of hrs. It doesn't blow any blue/black smoke (I saw it do it once for a few seconds right after I started it). Today it stopped running after being on or 20+hrs and I got an error code 17 (first time it ever just died that wasn't because I ran out of fuel and I'd just filled the tanks last night so that wasn't the reason. Code 17 isn't listed anywhere and it started right up and has been fine since. I checked the under the hood and the oil fill & coolant caps weren't twisted shut and the passenger side front of it has rusted so much so that I feel wind blowing through the rust. I got my roll of 5 inch Gorilla tape and sealed it all the way around.
The Inverter was upgraded from a COMBI to a SW3012 but they forgot the panel (and the genny assist) and the temperature charge sensor was double side taped to the wall of the battery box. 2 12 volts in parallel not 4 6's like it should be.
I have no idea where my water / fuel separator is and I've missed about 150 days of emptying it. Hope it's not important.
When changing the oil I found a 2nd "oil filter" on the passanger side that looks exactly like the one on the drivers side.
Up at the nose, under the coach, about where the captains chairs are above, there is what looks like a big car radiator with a fan that I've never seen do anything.
It is supposed to have a 90 gal diesel tank capacity but I've never been able to buy more that 70 gals when bone dry.
When looking down on the exhaust system from the bedroom, I can see through many spots that are rusted out although it's not crumbling or falling apart at all - it seems very solid.
The other day, shortly after starting it, I heard what I thought was the jacks retracting, hitting the base hard, but it was really loud. I got out and a friend was there too. We both walked around to the back to be greeted with what sounded like a gunshot, then again 10 secs or so later. It's not happened since and I'm thinking that - because it wasn't run for a few days and it's been very very humid, the air pressure release valve was sticky / sticking.
There are the remants of several aftermarket towing solutions under the dash along with something called "Tire Secure". When I lifted the instrument cluster I was shocked by how poorly these things were installed. There's exposed 'hot' wires everywhere tapped into God only knows what systems. The other day by map lights above the dash and my 12volt lighter outlets stopped working and I don't know why...
Last but not least, when driving, no always but 80/90% of the time, the closer I get to 73mph, the more violent the front end shakes up and down. I can let go of the where and it goes dead on straight. When I pass the 73 mph mark it starts to smooth out the further I get from it AND LIKEWISE WHEN SLOWING DOWN THE WHOLE THING STARTS AGAIN!!! AAHHH!! It's like it oscillates through the coach. I gets better the moment I get pass 73. The tires are from 2010. The shocks do NOT get warm - I'll drive for 30 mins, hop out and reach under and grab them as test to see if they're shot. Was suggested if they're cold they're not absorbing shocks and should be replaced. I've balanced, the alingned and rebalanced the front end all within a few days and it made it better. Now its suggested that I replace the shocks and then tires if it doesn't fix it.
AS WITH ALL THAT I'VE DESCRIBED I'M OPEN TO INTELLIGENT SUGGESTIONS!
Many thanks,
Vince
Vincent Louis Marino - Facebook
I purchased my Bounder 39Z DP, March of 2017 to live in full-time.
I bought a go-power 120watt portable solar system that I'm in process of upgrading to a 1Kw with a very expensive battery pack. I want to run one A.C off solar.
It has a Onan QD 7500 that I normally can't start without pressing and holding the Aux By-Pass button. But it does start right up and run without issues 95% of the time. Sometimes it dies 3 times in a row after a few mins and then runs fine for 100's of hrs. It doesn't blow any blue/black smoke (I saw it do it once for a few seconds right after I started it). Today it stopped running after being on or 20+hrs and I got an error code 17 (first time it ever just died that wasn't because I ran out of fuel and I'd just filled the tanks last night so that wasn't the reason. Code 17 isn't listed anywhere and it started right up and has been fine since. I checked the under the hood and the oil fill & coolant caps weren't twisted shut and the passenger side front of it has rusted so much so that I feel wind blowing through the rust. I got my roll of 5 inch Gorilla tape and sealed it all the way around.
The Inverter was upgraded from a COMBI to a SW3012 but they forgot the panel (and the genny assist) and the temperature charge sensor was double side taped to the wall of the battery box. 2 12 volts in parallel not 4 6's like it should be.
I have no idea where my water / fuel separator is and I've missed about 150 days of emptying it. Hope it's not important.
When changing the oil I found a 2nd "oil filter" on the passanger side that looks exactly like the one on the drivers side.
Up at the nose, under the coach, about where the captains chairs are above, there is what looks like a big car radiator with a fan that I've never seen do anything.
It is supposed to have a 90 gal diesel tank capacity but I've never been able to buy more that 70 gals when bone dry.
When looking down on the exhaust system from the bedroom, I can see through many spots that are rusted out although it's not crumbling or falling apart at all - it seems very solid.
The other day, shortly after starting it, I heard what I thought was the jacks retracting, hitting the base hard, but it was really loud. I got out and a friend was there too. We both walked around to the back to be greeted with what sounded like a gunshot, then again 10 secs or so later. It's not happened since and I'm thinking that - because it wasn't run for a few days and it's been very very humid, the air pressure release valve was sticky / sticking.
There are the remants of several aftermarket towing solutions under the dash along with something called "Tire Secure". When I lifted the instrument cluster I was shocked by how poorly these things were installed. There's exposed 'hot' wires everywhere tapped into God only knows what systems. The other day by map lights above the dash and my 12volt lighter outlets stopped working and I don't know why...
Last but not least, when driving, no always but 80/90% of the time, the closer I get to 73mph, the more violent the front end shakes up and down. I can let go of the where and it goes dead on straight. When I pass the 73 mph mark it starts to smooth out the further I get from it AND LIKEWISE WHEN SLOWING DOWN THE WHOLE THING STARTS AGAIN!!! AAHHH!! It's like it oscillates through the coach. I gets better the moment I get pass 73. The tires are from 2010. The shocks do NOT get warm - I'll drive for 30 mins, hop out and reach under and grab them as test to see if they're shot. Was suggested if they're cold they're not absorbing shocks and should be replaced. I've balanced, the alingned and rebalanced the front end all within a few days and it made it better. Now its suggested that I replace the shocks and then tires if it doesn't fix it.
AS WITH ALL THAT I'VE DESCRIBED I'M OPEN TO INTELLIGENT SUGGESTIONS!
Many thanks,
Vince
Vincent Louis Marino - Facebook