Kaputnick
Active member
What temp can you expect at the registers? Using my laser temp gauge I get 71F which sounds low? Also, I assume my unit is a Coleman? Is there a way to tell?
Basement AC Output
- Thread starter Kaputnick
- Start date
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John Hilley
Well-known member
They were all Coleman Airxcel. That may be right Temp if you ar in 90F or hotter. Temperature differential should be 15F or more
Here is the 6536 manual
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rvp/6536heatpump.pdf
WIT Winnebago AC Service Tips
https://winnebagoind.com/resources/service/pdfs/1999-06%20Air%20Conditioning.pdf
Here is the 6536 manual
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rvp/6536heatpump.pdf
WIT Winnebago AC Service Tips
https://winnebagoind.com/resources/service/pdfs/1999-06%20Air%20Conditioning.pdf
IslandGuy
Well-known member
Output register in the ceiling should be 15-20 cooler than what you measure at the return register...have you checked your AC filter to make sure it is not plugged?Kaputnick said:
John Canfield
Site Team
Using a non-contact thermometer will not give you an accurate outlet air temp unless you hit the exact right spot (it's complicated). Use one of those 'button' pencil type thermometers.
afchap
Well-known member
My dual compressor basement unit consistently hits temps at the outlet up to 40 degrees colder than the intake air ...measured w/an infrared thermometer aimed into the duct and held there for a minute or more. Yes, I have been told that is impossible, but other owners of this unit have reported the same. Other types of measurement may give different readings, but infrared is what I use. If a single compressor unit is expected to attain temps of apx 20 degrees colder than intake air, doesn't it stand to reason that a dual compressor unit would attain colder differential temps than 20 degrees? If my differential gets closer to 30 than to 40 I know that rear duct is probably split open again.
Oh, and on these units, if the air filter is clogged when running in AC mode the unit will freeze up and you will have no air flow. You will have to turn the unit off ...or on fan only ...and let it thaw out after you change the filter. If the air filter is clogged when running in heat mode, you will trip the high pressure switch on one of both compressors. That requires opening at least the electrical box on the face of the unit ...the voice of personal experience. CHECK and CHANGE the filter frequently!!
Oh, and on these units, if the air filter is clogged when running in AC mode the unit will freeze up and you will have no air flow. You will have to turn the unit off ...or on fan only ...and let it thaw out after you change the filter. If the air filter is clogged when running in heat mode, you will trip the high pressure switch on one of both compressors. That requires opening at least the electrical box on the face of the unit ...the voice of personal experience. CHECK and CHANGE the filter frequently!!
I checked my register temps last night.
Ref: 2006 Winnebago Journey 34H
--> With one compressor running the temp was 68 degrees at register
--> With both compressors running the temp was 48 degrees at register
It is expected to get to 94 here today (high humidity), if I get a chance I'll test again at during the daytime.
Russ
Ref: 2006 Winnebago Journey 34H
- Outside Temp was 84 degrees
- 9:30 pm (sun had set)
- Temp taken at 3rd register from back, driver's side. I have 7 registers per side.
- Temperatures take with an Infrared thermometer with trigger held for 15 seconds
--> With one compressor running the temp was 68 degrees at register
--> With both compressors running the temp was 48 degrees at register
It is expected to get to 94 here today (high humidity), if I get a chance I'll test again at during the daytime.
Russ
JoelP
Well-known member
John Canfield said:
John, not sure what you mean when you say noncontact button/pencil probes. Would something like this be best? This seems to allow placement of the probe.
https://www.amazon.com/Ambient-Weather-WS-2063-W-Temperature-Backlight/dp/B01IJ1VLYU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1500985781&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=weather+thermometer+with+button+probe
I need to look for the manual for my basement unit to see if there is any filter besides the obvious grill facing the exterior.
John Canfield
Site Team
That one could possibly work but this is the traditional HVAC thermometer. Stick it in a register or duct and wait about five minutes or so.JoelP said:
You should only have one filter for the basement unit. There's a good bet your coils (underneath the AC filter) need to be cleaned. You can use your non-contact IR gun to check your rear cap for any duct air leakage. Wave your IR gun back and forth and up and down the fiberglass surface. If you read any spots with cooler temperatures then your duct(s) is probably leaking. I have a document near the bottom of my RV web page with instructions of how to partially remove the rear cap to fix/upgrade the duct(s.)
By the way - get the cheapest filter for the basement air, you want maximum air flow over the coil.
JoelP
Well-known member
Thanks John. I bought one of each of these temperature measurement devices and will also look at the filter and coils.
Joel
Joel
JoelP
Well-known member
John Canfield said:
John - please provide a link to your RV webpage for this. I found one nice article in the library on how to remove the AC unit entirely to access the ducts and to service the interior of the AC unit. This encouraged me to do this one day, but surely it must be easier to access this filter without removing the entire AC. Thanks!
Joel
John Canfield
Site Team
This is the document about pulling (actually tilting back) the rear cap. I have no idea if the basement unit needs to be removed first.
afchap
Well-known member
Not sure what you mean here ... exterior=outside?? The only FILTER for the unit will be INSIDE the coach. Mine is under a lift up panel in the closet floor several feet from the visible intake grill at the foot of the bed. Many have the filter under a cabinet, etc. The inside filter protects the inside coils from getting dirty, but of course that can still happen after an extended time. Some can be cleaned w/o removing the unit, while others would be extremely difficult or impossible. On the OUTSIDE, the visible coils may require cleaning more often as they can collect leaves or other debris.JoelP said:
JoelP
Well-known member
afchap said:
OK, now I understand that there is an inside filter that I need to hunt for as well as inside coils. I was under the impression that all of the cooling coils were right in the AC unit, so I will be looking for that as well. Thanks for the education.
afchap
Well-known member
JoelP said:
To clarify, all the coils are on the unit ...some visible from outside, and some only exposed to the inside (whether you can actually see them from the inside or not). The changeable paper FILTER is located inside and not necessarily close to the unit.
cbeierl
Well-known member
JoelP said:
Pages 4-13, 4-14 of the Operator Manual for your coach show the location and specifications for the the house A/C filter.
JoelP
Well-known member
cbeierl said:
This explains why I never saw it, I never lifted up the bed. Thanks for sending that info and link.
Joel
