Problem with weight-distributing hitch

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Telemark46

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Posts
82
Location
Sacramento
I tow a Jay-Feather 186 with a 2006 4Runner V8.  The trailer GVWR is ca 3950, well under the TV capacity.  I have an EAZ-LIFT WDH with a 10,000lb rating, and that worked well for a number of trips.  Lately, however, the left bar is considerably tighter than the right bar.  I use the bars interchangeably, so after 10 or 12 hookups, I'm sure I'm not always using the same bar on the left.  I count the links on the chain to get the same setting every time.  Does anyone have an idea how that asymmetry could develop.

One additional tidbit:  The tires (bias ply D range) at some point started wearing badly.  Both tires were "scalloped" quite a bit--the right mainly on the inside, the left on the inside and outside.  When I replaced them at Les Schwab, the tech said he had seen that when tires were run underinflated, which I confess had happened for at least a hundred miles.  However, I worry that it might be related to the above.

I have now run about 300 miles without the bars; it's not terrible, but I think the bouncing is a bit worse, and I know I have less weight on the front tires.  I'm hoping you wizards can help me figure it out before I do the last 540 miles home.  (I know I'm asking too late to help with the 200miles tomorrow.)

Thanks in advance,
Larry
 
I had two different hitches on two different trailers, with three different trucks.  As set up by the dealer, they did the same thing, one side seemed tighter than the other. I'm fortunate that I have two certified scales at my disposal. I went through the set up every time I got loaded as we would normally travel with each truck/trailer combo. I still ended up with one side seeming tighter than the other. I just gave up and run like that.
 
I am not familiar with that hitch but....if the tow vehicle is not exactly straight in line with the trailer one bar will seem tighter than the other.  If the  brackets are not installed at the proper dimension or are at different dimensions then one side will seem tighter than the other.  When hitched up the bars should be close to parallel to the ground and the chains should be close to straight down, perpendicular to the ground.

Check the above, then hitch up and pull 50 yards or so "straight" ahead.  Then stop and check the bars and chains and see what they look like.  One last thought...check the tow vehicle by itself on level ground and make sure it, or the hitch itself, is not leaning to one side...the tight side.

Let us know if you find the answer.
 
How many links are you setting them at. A 4000lb trailer with 10,000 lb bars is. May be to much for the light weight frame. When you engage one it may be enough for all the weight. And is  twisting the frame.  The tire situation sounds like over loading a small trailer will have a small payload.
 
Telemark46 said:
I tow a Jay-Feather 186 with a 2006 4Runner V8.  The trailer GVWR is ca 3950, well under the TV capacity.  I have an EAZ-LIFT WDH with a 10,000lb rating, might be related to the above.

I too have the Eaz-lift. Besides the 10,000 lb tow rating the bars too are rated such as 1200 lb, 1000 lb, 800 lb, etc. There should be a sticker on the top side near the chain u-bolts. What are your bars rated for? Perhaps they are not the correct ones for your trailer tongue weight or mismatched.
 
I have a (partial) explanation of the asymmetry.  I finally noticed that the trailer is not sitting level.  After the end of our trip, the left side is sitting 1-1.5"higher, which would explain why the bar on that side took more weight.  I'm surprised I never noticed that, but I only checked the level once we were in a camping spot.  This trailer has always ridden low, and is hard to dump sometimes; I assume that the right side has dropped rather than the left side rising, so it should ride higher once I fix this problem.

I will start a new thread to pick the collective brains on the axle problem.
 
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