Looking for replacement toilet

I have a 20+ year old  Motorhome I'm remodeling, mostly cleaning up, refinishing, removing the old carpet, replacing with floor tile.

The currently installed low profile Thetford toilet, is in poor shape, pretty much needs to replaced. Because of the different issues I don't think it would be worth the cost and effort trying to repair.

So I've been looking around at replacement low profile toilets. So far mainly looking at ones for around a ~$100.00, however I'm wondering about their quality for an installation in a motorhome that's lived in year around (24/7)? I would prefer to install a toilet of better quality designed to be used in a permanent living situation.

Standard flush toilets made from china I come across all the time, there's no problem swapping in a good used or new flush toilet. However toilets available for RV are designed for travel, low weight and a holding tank aren't normally as sturdy as flush bowl toilets.

I do have a used high profile Thetford 34060 that appears to be in good shape. Has a China bowl but a plastic base, that props it up as a high profile toilet. Still  it's mainly designed for a holding tank, lightness and travel.

The current low profile Thetford is mounted on a approx. 8 - 10" high wood base. I'm thinking perhaps the wood base can be removed and a high profile toilet, if not too large length and width, can be installed instead of the low profile.

I usually do my own plumbing work in homes, but have no experience with RV toilets. I was at one time considering installing a composting toilet but because of the additional expense and the RV hasn't traveled for more than a decade decided it not to be an option as its on a water hookup year around.

Anyway I'm posting mainly to get any thoughts, feedback, comments, suggestions, alternatives, etc. installing replacing my current RV toilet.

You said you are living in the MH 24/7.  Is it in a fixed location, or is it still traveling?  Does the MH still have black and gray holding tanks?
If it has tanks, make sure the black stays CLOSED until at least ? full to avoid the dreaded poo pile!  If you do not know about this menace, please ask!

A "House" toilet will use much more water than an RV toilet, and fill the black tank more quickly.
With your plumbing skills, you should have no problems with whatever toilet you choose to install.

It's in a space in a RV park and hasn't traveled the last ten years.

I never empty the black tank until it's totally full.  The black tank is periodically washed out with a water hose or pressure washer. There is a grey tank which has been left open for the last ten years.

I don't ever put paper, food stuff, etc. of any kind into the black tank. Normally used is toilet paper, baby or Clorox wipes  that are placed into plastic bags that go into the garbage. Even though water, urine and feces is the main reason for dumping, not using paper with the black tank  extends dumping intervals.

I thought about a regular flush toilet however as you stated the black tank would fill too quickly. If the black tank is  removed I'm not certain about connecting directly to the sewer without a  holding tank and valve.

But I suppose it can be accomplished. The RV would then not be suitable for travel unless of course the black tank can be easily reattached somehow. I would need to take a closer look. I think there are tank straps that hold the black tank into place plus other fittings and tubes for a RV toilet connection.

For travel I would prefer a compost toilet as I normally boondock while traveling, sometimes in areas where there are no dumping stations.

Perhaps I'll also look into a composting toilet, however ones on the market for sale for RV, boats and cabins often start in cost near or around a ~$1000.00 +/-. Some people who know what their doing design and build their own compost toilets, but more often for stationary installations such as a house or cabin.

I have installed this model in two different TT, they hold up well and are better quality than most home toilets plus are porcelain easy to maintain and if limited mobility is an issue the tall model works well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-302310031-Standard-Height-Toilet/dp/B073WYHBHX/ref=dp_ob_title_auto

Both Dometic/Sealand and Thetford make ceramic bowl RV toilets in various heights. The better ones are more than $100, though. We had a Sealand 310+ for 10 years in our coach, so I don't think durability is a major concern, though I'll grant an all-porcelain residential toilet will last indefinitely (with periodic replacement of the water control parts).

A low-flush (1.3 gal) or reduced flush (1.6 gal) residential toilet is maybe not too bad if you have a 40+ gallon tank. RV toilets use still less, but you need a decent volume of water to avoid tank clog problems anyway. We use generate more black water when we have sewer hook-ups just for that reason, so end up dumping more often when we have hook-ups.

I'd stick with the RV toilet, though.

Tom Hoffman said:

I have installed this model in two different TT, they hold up well and are better quality than most home toilets plus are porcelain easy to maintain and if limited mobility is an issue the tall model works well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-302310031-Standard-Height-Toilet/dp/B073WYHBHX/ref=dp_ob_title_auto

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The Dometic 310 Series appears to be worth taking a look at.

I  found a 302310071 as low as $150.00 from a RV parts store and a 302310081 from Camping World for $169.15. Your link to a 302310031 on Amazon is $208.33, uncertain of the differences with Dometic 310 Series Model numbers.

I would need to lower the existing toilet floor as the low profile toilet is mounted approx ~10 inches above  the RV's main floor.

It appears they have the Low Profile model as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-302310031-Standard-Height-Toilet/dp/B073WXJQ8C/ref=dp_ob_title_auto?th=1

Gary RV_Wizard said:

Both Dometic/Sealand and Thetford make ceramic bowl RV toilets in various heights. The better ones are more than $100, though. We had a Sealand 310+ for 10 years in our coach, so I don't think durability is a major concern, though I'll grant an all-porcelain residential toilet will last indefinitely (with periodic replacement of the water control parts).

A low-flush (1.3 gal) or reduced flush (1.6 gal) residential toilet is maybe not too bad if you have a 40+ gallon tank. RV toilets use still less, but you need a decent volume of water to avoid tank clog problems anyway. We use generate more black water when we have sewer hook-ups just for that reason, so end up dumping more often when we have hook-ups.

I'd stick with the RV toilet, though.

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The current Thetford plastic toilet didn't really last very long compared to a standard toilet. It became busted up only after a few years. Toilet seat and hinges are broken, flush lever has broken off and overfill valve doesn't work, was producing odors until plugged up.

It wasn't really treated very rough, it's mainly many RV appliances need to be treated with additional care. If you don't treat them with special care, most likely will fall apart. Though many appliances made for household have become similar in quality and durability.  e.g. I purchased a Kenmore freezer that lasted a whole two years, just after the warranty expired. No repair parts available, repair shops wanted approx. same or more than cost of a new freezer to repair.

I think one exception may be  RV absorption refrigerators, potentially are able to last 30+ years i.e. if you are careful not to break their hinges, interior parts and keep their seals clean.

However, no comparison to appliances made years ago, often lasting 30+ and 50+ years. I use to  have a Coldspot refrigerator standard install in  1956 a trailer and still running well after 50 years. RV's made back in the 50's many came standard with underfloor duct-ed heating, double pane aluminum windows, actual wood paneling, come standard with large porcelain sinks, toilets, showers, ovens and stoves.

We've been using a Thetford Style Plus porcelain bowl toilet since 2008 with only one flush gasket replacement for maintenance. I even swapped from one coach to another when we upgraded to our current coach in 2013. We spend about 11 months a year living in our coach. The Style Plus is available in both standard and low profile bases, and uses readily available standard toilet seats.

Yeah, the Dometic porcelain I think is going to be my choice, unless someone can come up with another porcelain toilet.

As long as the toilet seat and hinges  are fairly sturdy, not prone to breaking and a valves and seals last.

One thing about the old plastic Thetford is none of the seals, valves including the ball valve ever failed. Mainly the toilet seat, hinges, flush lever and overflow valve failed. I guess weren't treated with additional care.
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I'm wondering about any  differences between the Dometic low and high version. Does the high version have any advantages over the low version?

I found a Dometic low version 300 series for $118.00 with free shipping from Camping World.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dometic-low-profile-300-gravity-flush-toilet-white/69995&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp69995&sc_intid=69995?utm_campaign=SC_Shopping_High&affiliateid=6313&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7qOOxOev1QIVk42zCh2xQgb9EAQYAiABEgIQMPD_BwE

Are there any improvements and/or differences between the 300 and 310 / 311 series?

I found some more information on the high version of Dometic 310 series, apparently it's the same as the spare high toilet I have where the porcelain bowl meets with a plastic  base half way  down. Because of the valve design there's no way  the plastic base can be removed.

I also read of problems with leaking. I can't be totally certain but the old plastic Thetford appears to be the original toilet installed back in 92 no signs it ever leaked or had problems.

I also found some differences between the 300, 311, 310, 320 and 321 series.

Materials

Toilet bowl:  vitreous ceramic (models 310, 311, 320, 321)
Polypropylen toilet bowl: (models 300 and 301)

Toilet seat: polypropylene (models 300, 301, 310, 311);
enameled wood (models 320, 321)

Flush ball seal: nitrile butyl rubber
Toilet base:  polypropylen
Foot pedal:  polypropylene
Water valve:  polypropylene
Vacuum breaker:  ABS/polypropylene
Floor seal:  nitrile rubber, foam 320, 321); polypropylene (models 300, 301)

Plus there are minor dimensional differences with both the low and high versions.

Does the high version have any advantages over the low version?

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It does if your legs are longer. 

Seriously, residential toilets are available in high and low profile models too. It's a matter of personal comfort and choice, not functionality. Ditto for bowl shape.

Price-wise, residential toilets are cheaper for a basic but still fully functional porcelain model. Simple production economics - residential toilets are sold by the 100's of thousands annually.  Smaller RVs, however, have weight constraints and many Rvs are targeted at lower budget buyers, so the cheaper & lighter plastic models dominate the much smaller market.  The better quality models are at the higher end of the scale. You can get a larger, porcelain bowl, wood seats, same hinges as any home toilet, etc. 

In RV's, low profile toilets are often installed in locations where a raised platform is needed to clear piping, wiring, etc., where a standard height toilet would then require an average sized person to need a step stool to sit on it. Typically the finished height is still within the norms for residential toilets.

One example:

I'm thinking of purchasing a Dometic 300 with the plastic bowl.

The 310 has a ceramic bow with a plastic base. The pdf file shows their exactly the same toilets except the 300 has a plastic instead of a ceramic bowl.

Any reason to pay additional for a ceramic bowl?

Ceramic bowls typically flush cleaner and are easier to clean and keep clean. Most also accept standard residential seats or even add-on bidet seats if you want one.

I found a deal on eBay for a new Thetford 42061 low profile toilet with china bowl and sprayer. Total with shipping was approx. $118.00, however after a few days of paying the seller,  the order was cancelled and I was sent a refund with no explanation.

I've narrowed down my selections to two low profile china bowl toilets, cost with shipping from around ~$150.00 to ~$175.00 (bone often  costs more than a white) however none come with a sprayer.

1. Thetford low profile Residence or Style two (not certain of the difference, pics appear nearly identical)
or
2. Dometic 310

I haven't been able to find enough details to determine differences between Thetford and Dometic. Generally from the exterior they appear to have the same basic design using a china bowl with a side foot pedal flush lever.

I think any differences may be with the flush design? Possibly  differences in quality and workmanship,  part design of water valves, type of flushing, foot lever, etc.

Both toilets have a china bowl but the rest of the toilet including the base is made from  plastics.

Attached are pics of both toilets

I am currently replacing a Dometic 310 because they won't sell me a new ball valve.  Before you buy any toilet, look if parts are available, or is it just a disposable item.

I'm not sure why, but I seem to see more complaints about the Thetford Style II than I have about the Style Plus. They both have the porcelain bowl on a plastic base, but different flush and water valve setups. The Style Plus water valve is a separate piece that can be replaced as a unit, while the Style II water valve body is molded into the base, with only the core section replaceable as a separate item. If the body needs replacing, the entire base must be replaced.

The two Thetford toilet I've been looking at so far

Theford Residence and the Thetford Style II

Both have the ball as part of their replaceable parts list

Residence Parts: http://www.thetford.com/part/aqua-magic-residence/
Style II parts: http://www.thetford.com/part/aqua-magic-style-ii/
Style Plus Parts: http://www.thetford.com/part/aqua-magic-style-plus/

As for price and availability I've considering purchasing the Residence but also  considering others

I'm not certain what you mean by different flush and water valve setups. I would need to take a closer look at the toilets and parts in order to make a decision base partially on repair parts.

I expect unless the toilet is defective perhaps the ball valve and seal may require replacing. If these RV toilets are breaking down for other reasons seems a bit strange as  older rv toilet  designs often lasted 20+ years and never required any sort of maintenance.

Thetford RV toilets: http://www.thetford.com/products/toilets/rv-toilets/

If this is an issue the rv toilet breaking I'm also considering  installing a small standard toilet with a tank. People have installed these into RV's either water saving toilets or place a brick in the toilet so it flushes with less water.

I've read you may either need a min. 40 gallon black water tank or perhaps you can leave the black water tank partially open so it's able to drain fluid. To completely empty you would probably  need to fill then black water tank with water then empty.

I don't use toilet paper of any kind with RV toilets. I sometimes use toilet paper and usually  sanitation wipes and place all the paper into a garbage bin.

rvanony said:

I don't use toilet paper of any kind with RV toilets. I sometimes use toilet paper and usually  sanitation wipes and place all the paper into a garbage bin.

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I've never figured out the logic behind not putting toilet paper down the toilet. The system is designed for it. There's a 3" drain off of the black tank that will handle the paper if one uses a decent amount of water. And I have never figured out the RV toilet paper either. We use Cottonelle Ultra, and never have had an issue. I do agree with not putting wipes in any kind of sewage system though. They are not good for a septic system, and if you talk to anyone that works in a wastewater plant,they aren't good in a public system either.