How many torque their 22.5 inch tires.

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garyb1st

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Just put new tires on the Pace Arrow.  Recall that after so many miles, (maybes 100 or so) they're supposed to be re-torqued.  No way I can do that with the equipment I have.  How important is it to re-torque the tires and what do you use? 
 
Re-Torquing depends on several things.

One: How the tires were put on.. Mine the installer used a special centering Nut then it put on all the other nuts, then he took the special nut off and put on the regular ones.. This say the wheel is properly centered from the word GO..  Still... Read on.

My Daughter's second car. First one she bought 100% on her own.. It had Mag/Alum rims.. THe dealer forgot to tell her to come back for a Re-Torque.. Cost 'em big time (They made good on it)

Steel rims.. Not so important.. I do not have the needed tools either. My Torque wrench not that strong.
 
garyb1st said:
John, pretty sure they're steel.  So if you're suggesting I don't need to re-torque them, I'm good to do.

Now ya done it Gary. Now I'm thinking about mine. I've got about 2000 miles since I had my new tires put on, and didn't even give it a second thought, till now. Maybe I'd better call my dealer tomorrow, I'm leaving Monday on another 1000 mile trip.

I sure can't do mine, that's why I went with coach net. 
 
garyb1st said:
Just put new tires on the Pace Arrow.  Recall that after so many miles, (maybes 100 or so) they're supposed to be re-torqued.  No way I can do that with the equipment I have.  How important is it to re-torque the tires and what do you use?

I seriously doubt that anyone re-torques their "tires".......but probably lots of folks re-torque the wheels after a tire change!  ;D
 
xrated said:
I seriously doubt that anyone re-torques their "tires".......but probably lots of folks re-torque the wheels after a tire change!  ;D

I always re-torque my tires.  The wheels are too hard.  ;)
 
I'm with you on that.  I was torquing the rear wheels on my Dually a couple of months ago (160 ft. lbs) and was leaning into it pretty hard and something happened to me that has never happened before in my life.  The 13/16" socket (1/2" drive) broke and I ended up hitting the concrete driveway pretty hard.  It wasn't a cheapo socket set either.....it was a J.H. Williams brand.  After that little incident, I bought a 1/2" battery powered DeWalt impact wrench and a 160 ft. lb. torque extension and a 13/16" impact socket.

It sound like that may have never happened if I had been torquing the tires instead of the wheels.  8)
 
garyb1st said:
Sorry Charlie.  But hey, if you get them torqued, let me know what you find out.
Just checked the manual, says to re torque @ 100, 1000, and 6000 after they have been removed. Guess I'll be stopping by wingfoot tomorrow to see if they can get me in. 

22,000 motor home chassis takes 475 ft lb. No way can I do that, and I'd like to see them do that. I'll bet they just run them with an impact wrench.
 
I torque mine to 350 dry 400 lubed. Per Alcoa book for lug size steel rims. Use a jack stand to hold up wrench.
 
When I had my wheel bearings replaced, I noticed the very spendy looking torque wrench that they used to set the correct torque on my lug nuts. Here is least expensive torque wrench ($284) that can go to 600 ft lbs that I found on Amazon. For more than 600 ft lbs I can only imagine what that might cost.  I think I would be renting that one if I could find it there.

https://smile.amazon.com/Torque-Wrench-Dr-100-600-Lbs/dp/B000K1K0U4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502286531&sr=8-3&keywords=500+ft+lb+torque+wrench
 
JoelP said:
When I had my wheel bearings replaced, I noticed the very spendy looking torque wrench that they used to set the correct torque on my lug nuts. Here is least expensive torque wrench ($284) that can go to 600 ft lbs that I found on Amazon. For more than 600 ft lbs I can only imagine what that might cost.  I think I would be renting that one if I could find it there.

https://smile.amazon.com/Torque-Wrench-Dr-100-600-Lbs/dp/B000K1K0U4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502286531&sr=8-3&keywords=500+ft+lb+torque+wrench
You still have to  be strong enough to use it. I'm out, no way could I use that.
 
Charlie 5320 said:
You still have to  be strong enough to use it. I'm out, no way could I use that.

Perhaps with a pipe over the end.  With a big enough lever you can move the world.
 
garyb1st said:
Just put new tires on the Pace Arrow.  Recall that after so many miles, (maybes 100 or so) they're supposed to be re-torqued.  No way I can do that with the equipment I have.  How important is it to re-torque the tires and what do you use?

garyb1st
I have the dealer who sold me the tires and mounted them do BOTH the "initial torquing" and the "re-torquing".
(A good tire shop will do the required re-torque at no charge).
 
We're heading out tomorrow and will put  2000+ miles on the tires.  Hopefully I can find a local shop to do the torque.  If not, I'll just take my chances.  The same shop put tires on our 1999 Aerbus with 19.5 tires.  Never torqued them after the install and put 30,000 miles on them. 
 
Over 40 years and many thousands of miles I drove large trucks and had hundreds of tires changed.... I never re-torqued a single lug nut on an aluminum or steel wheel,  and I've never found or heard of a loose lug nut.

IMO...That printed instruction that says you must re-torque the lug nuts every 100 miles is just a bunch of corporate attorney ramblings trying to avoid responsibilities.

 
garyb1st said:
We're heading out tomorrow and will put  2000+ miles on the tires.  Hopefully I can find a local shop to do the torque.  If not, I'll just take my chances.  The same shop put tires on our 1999 Aerbus with 19.5 tires.  Never torqued them after the install and put 30,000 miles on them.
My dealer says not necessary, but they will do it if I want, but not free, and the can't do it till Friday morning. I've already got 2000 miles miles since my tires were installed, think I'm going to forget about it. 
 
I've never taken the motorhome back for a re-torque. The commercial truck tire shop I use doesn't think it is necessary and doesn't do it on other vehicles, but said I could bring it in for a check-up if ever in doubt.

I used to hit the trailer wheels with my lug wrench a few weeks after any changes, "just in case".

When was the last time you checked the wheel torque on your car?  Same thing...
 
I guess I'm on the other side of the fence during my 3 decades of wrenching and I am anal about torqueing fasteners, especially wheels, either steel or aluminum. 

Many people think torqueing of wheel studs is for the wheel's protection which is why it is said steel wheels don't need to be torqued or it isn't as critical.  While the steel is more forgiving than an aluminum wheel is correct, the rotors and/or drums are what you want to protect.  With uneven torque applied to wheel studs the cast rotors and/or drums can actually deform due to the stress of uneven torque when they get hot.  By keeping the stresses even when these components get hot they are less prone to distorting or warping.

In my opinion I would have them re-torqued, but have them back them off slightly then bring up to spec.  The biggest issue I see and is one of my pet-peeves at tire shops is when the guy rattles on the lug nut with his impact and THEN grabs a torque wrench and runs around the pattern and they all get the "click" from the torque wrench. ::)  They should be run on evenly and then brought up to the proper torque evenly.  BY merely rattling on with an impact and then kissing them with the torque wrench I guarantee you that they are all over-torqued and the torque wrench is merely telling them that they are at LEAST at the preset of the torque wrench.

Mike

 
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