Well, here is an update.
Coach is a Bounder 39Z, GVWR 26K pulling a Ford Edge (3-4k?)
Keep in mind my setup is bone stock as far as the exhaust and intake plumbing/air filter goes.
I had concerns with the trans. The Allison 3060 is rated for 300hp max and 950ft/lb of torque.
The "stock" output of the ISB in the Bounder was at 275hp. The module would / could show hp increase up to 60hp.
Although I have not found the spec. I cannot imagine more than 660ft/lb of torque with the 275hp rating.
Torque is what gets you going and up and over the hills...
I took the plunge and bought the module after talking to the gents at Area Diesel again. At the same time I purchased a boost and pyro guage although according to Area Diesel the module should not push the EGT past acceptable limits.
This was the kit via Amazon:
Hewitt 010TM5008 Combo Pyrometer & Boost Gauge - 2 Gauge Kit priced at 139...Very reasonable.
Additionally I purchased 50ft of 3/16 airline from our local truck supply store and 50ft of 16/2AWG flexible JSO cord.
.....and ran it through Carlon ENT conduit, to the back of the coach.
Without the module installed, max boost pressure observed was 20-22PSI, Max EGT1150
Mind you stock performance was "ok", but is was very sluggish of the line playing the "I need boost before I will fuel more" game.
Going up inclines at 60-65 it would downshift, upshift.....downshift again...upshift.
Installing the module made a big difference, especially when starting from a dead stop. However the EGT's were out of control.
Was able to hit 1300 in a heartbeat when starting to pull a hill.
When I would "feather" the throttle and keep the boost just on the edge of 20-22 psi, the temps were fine, push the throttle harder and boost would stay the same, but temps would climb fast.
Made perfect sense....adding more fuel and not increasing the boost resulted in more heat....
Now there are all kinds of gizmos and gadgets for increasing the boost pressure. I wanted to increase mine 10psi.
...A "Boost Elbow"......(nothing more than a 90 degree air fitting with a setscrew). I tried this, found it to be a pita and discarded it.
...A larger spring/diaphragm for the turbo...(there was no way I was pulling the turbo off to get to the spring and diaphragm)
It took a lot of searching, but I found my simple solution. ......A brass pneumatic check valve with 10 psi cracking pressure....
Placed inline with the waste gate actuator should give me ~30-32psi of boost pressure (10 psi check + 20 psi waste gate)
This did require a small bleed-port between the check-valve and actuator, to bleed off the pressure and allow the waste gate to close again. Bleed-port size is aprox. .020" to .030".
Installed all the components and went on a 3 week trip throughout the States, starting from MI, to New Orleans area, then towards and up the East coast. 3 Adults, 4 pups, 1 toad....
I am super happy with this mod, it performed as expected. It pulls the hills beatifully (night and day difference)
Yes it will still downshift when needed.(lol..... we did not create a 400hp "Monster motor")
I watched the temps when pulling hard boost 30-32 psi, 1150-1200 max. Also on occasion I would manually downshift if needed as to not "lug" the motor, the increase in rpm would lower the egt temps....
So that's my .02 on this mod. Definitely worth it on the older 24V ISB's out there IMHO.
Happy Travels.
Bart