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Author Topic: 1999 36' Bounder gas valve  (Read 532 times)


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1999 36' Bounder gas valve
« on: August 26, 2017, 10:29:44 AM »
I have this situation with my gas detector wires. I have been remodeling my MH and was removing gas detector and when I pull alarm out of wall I notice a lot of slack in wires. I began to pull on wires and found rats had eaten them into. Can't get gas on now. I have removed everything to get access to wire bundle. Found one more wire had been nibbled on. I have checked everything else and looks good. The problem I have is I can't find where the rats chewed wires into. I was wondering where these wires may have come from. I understand one is battery power and the other is from inverter
The yellow goes to gas valve. I was wondering if the two red wires go anywhere else besides being power feeds for detector. Like I say I can't find the other freyed ends. I'm afraid they are behind refrigerator on right side in wall between toilet room and refrigerator.  Anyone know of any wiring diagrams. Fleetwood sent me some but not in great detail. I can power up gas valve and everything works just worried about the other end of freyed wires.  If I just run a new battery wire to gas valve through the detector will that be ok and safe.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2017, 08:47:15 AM by scottydl »

Rene T

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Re: 1999 36' Bounder
« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2017, 10:46:20 AM »
I understand one is battery power and the other is from inverter

Do you have an INverter or a CONverter.  A converter converts 110 Volt AC to 12 Volt DC.  A inverter converts 12 Volt DC to 110 Volt AC.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2017, 10:48:46 AM by Rene T »
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Re: 1999 36' Bounder
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2017, 11:02:02 AM »


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Re: 1999 36' Bounder
« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2017, 07:54:38 PM »
Here ya go. Yellow wire to the propane solenoid. One red wire to house batteries. One red wire to chassis batteries. The solenoid has a 9 volt DC coil, so don't keep 12 volts applied too long.
The detector hits the solenoid with 12 volts for a second or 2 and then throttles back to 1.5-2.0 volts to maintain open.

Link to wiring guide
« Last Edit: September 03, 2017, 08:46:28 AM by scottydl »


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Re: 1999 36' Bounder
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2017, 07:02:17 PM »
Thanks for the web site . I see how wires are connected. I found other end of wires rats had chewed. Replaced and ordered a gas/co detector but got wrong thing.I temporarily put an on/off switch on one 12 v service and checked out oven, water Htr  and heat systems. All work but don't feel comfortable with temporary switch. Don't want to damage gas solenoid. I am ordering a new gas detector unit because based on the voltage dropping to 1.5to 2 Volts you described the detector must be controlling this lower voltage supplied to solenoid.
 Thanks for the info. :)


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Re: 1999 36' Bounder
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2017, 08:27:46 AM »
Be aware you will have a difficult, if not impossible, task to find a new propane detector that will use the gas valve (solenoid). You are best to simply remove the valve and reconnect the propane line. Your detector is well past its "best before" date (usually 5-10 years) and should be replaced anyway. The valve requirement was dropped around the mid nineties or so.
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Re: 1999 36' Bounder gas valve
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2017, 09:44:47 PM »
You are absolutely correct, not finding replaceable detector. I installed a new gas/co alarm in old detectors place. I'll take your  advice and remove solenoid. I also replaced every detector and installed more.
in motorhome . Feel confident enough now. Checked all gas line connections for leaks with leak detectoralso. Thanks for all the info.