Fridge won't light

I just purchased an older 1980 Road Ranger and I can't get the refrigerator to light on propane.
It seems to be working on 120 v,
The refrigerator is an Insta-Matic Innovator Series.
When I push the button to try to light it, I can hear it click, like it is trying to ignite, but no flame will light.
There are two wires that are not connected. One wire is green, the other one is red, but it is attached to a black wire that looks like it is coming from the front of the fridge.

Thanks,

Jeff

Might have some air in the line. Try lighting the stove and then the fridge.

Is that a pilot light type of fridge or DSI?  If pilot, is it the pilot that isn't lighting, or the main burner? Does the gas valve open?

A service manual is available for that fridge on Bryant RV site - see http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/im.pdf

OldGator,
I lit the stove for a few seconds before I tried the fridge. Next time, I will try the fridge while the stove is lit.

Gary- how do I tell the difference between DSI and pilot light? I don't think the gas valve is open because I tried to light the burner with a lighter.  Could one of the disconnected wires open the valve?  thanks for sharing the link to the manual.
Thanks,

If running the stove for a while doesn't work, you need to check the burner assembly.  I had an issue with mine as well (I have an 1988 Dometic) and it was very very hard to light.  I only got it to light after trying for 15 minutes!

After cutting all power, turn off the gas and vent the lines through the stove.  Take the burner assembly out, or remove a cover so that you can see it.  Have someone try to ignite it and look for a spark from the ignitor.  If there's no spark, it will never light.  The spark will be hard to see in daylight.

If there is a good spark, then it probably just needs a cleaning.  Remove the entire burner assembly and set aside, being careful not to bend the 2 wires near the burner exit (Igniter and thermistor).  At the end of the gas connector which screws into the assembly, you'll see a little clear cap with a pinhole in it (The Ruby orifice).  Make sure it's clean but be very careful with it, and do not jam anything into that little pinhole!  A wipe with a qtip and a shot of compressed air is good.

On the removed burner assembly; the tube where the gas flows it likely full of rust and crumbs.  Dump it out and blow it out with some compressed air.  You would be surprised how a little tiny bit of rust laying in that tube will prevent the unit from lighting!  Using a dremel with a small wire wheel, give the top of the burner where the flame sits a good polish, especially the side with the igniter wire.  This will give you better spark.  You can do the igniter carefully as well.  Be careful not to bend it.

Put all back together and bleed the air out of the lines again by lighting the stove for a minute.  Now try the fridge again.  It's helpful with two people.  Have someone inside trying to light it so you can be outside and see what's going on.  You should see a good spark.  If you see a flame light and then go out, then you need to replace the thermistor (flame sensor).

Hopefully this help and gets your fridge going.  This is what I did to mine and it works like a brand new fridge now and lights every time.  Good luck!

The manual indicates it is auto-light, so that is DSI (spark ignition). I haven't spent the time to study that manual myself, though. I left that as an exercise for the student! 

A DSI gas burner should have a safety interlock that shuts the gas valve if the burner doesn't light. The circuit board holds the valve open while it is sending spark voltage to the igniter but closes it if it fails to light. You can't just turn on the fridge and manually light the flame except during the spark ignition sequence.

Dorian gave good advice about watching for the spark, but it should be audible as well if you are close by.

Depending on the ignition type, there are different sounds Gary, so you can I might tell the difference if we hear it.  The ignition system will make a clicking/ticking sound if it's trying to light, spark or not, and the spark will make more of a higher-pitched snapping sound.  Sounds slightly different.  Not disagreeing with you Gary, just pointing it out for someone who hasn't heard it before.

Thanks for the help.
I am getting spark at the burner, but I'm not getting any gas to the burner.
I am getting gas up to the valve (the line on the left of this picture), but I am not getting any gas on the other side of the valve (the small line on the right).

Can you jump 12v to the gas valve solenoid to see if it opens?

Where would I jump it to?  One of the wires that I have circled on here?