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Author Topic: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems  (Read 461 times)

joshtb86

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1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« on: September 19, 2017, 07:24:31 PM »
Hello!

I purchased a 1992 Chevvy Mallard Sprinter used with 31k miles on it and noticed the following issue:

When I turn on the chassis battery, none of the chassis 12v utilities run (fridge, lights, fans).

If I run the motor and the alternator is on, the 12v chassis utilities operate.

None of the AC utilities operate unless it is plugged into a shore line or the AC generator is running.

I am brand new to RVs and do not really have an idea of where to start. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!


This is the carfax info

1990 CHEVROLET P30
MOTORIZED HOME
7.4L V8 TBI OHV
GASOLINE
REAR WHEEL DRIVE

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2017, 09:10:33 PM »
The fridge, lights, etc. run off the house battery, not the chassis battery. However, when you start the engine, the engine alternator supplies power to both house and chassis systems.

If by "AC utilities" you mean roof air conditioner, wall outlets, etc., then yes, you must have shore or genset power to operate those things. They require 120v power.
Gary
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Gary Brinck
Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2017, 09:16:11 PM »
The fridge, lights, etc. run off the house battery, not the chassis battery. However, when you start the engine, the engine alternator supplies power to both house and chassis systems.

If by "AC utilities" you mean roof air conditioner, wall outlets, etc., then yes, you must have shore or genset power to operate those things. They require 120v power.

thanks!

but when i turn on the house battery when the engine is off - none of the lights etc run. does that mean the batteries might be dead if the dc stuff only works with the engine on or power generator on?

also - the fridge i have only has options for auto and LP gas - i saw a 12 volt dc connector on the back but i am not sure if it was running when i turned on the engine - could that be a problem with the wiring?

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2017, 09:32:32 PM »
House battery could be dead or simply disconnected. Motorhomes often have a house battery disconnect switch that puts the battery offline, e.g. for longer term storage.
Gary
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Gary Brinck
Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

Larry N.

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2017, 07:42:11 AM »
Quote
also - the fridge i have only has options for auto and LP gas - i saw a 12 volt dc connector on the back

When it is in the AUTO mode, it will run on 120V AC if available, otherwise it will switch to LP. The other position is to force it to use LP even when plugged in. The fridge needs 12V DC for it's control board, so needs that 12V whether on AC or LP.
Larry and Mary Ann N.
2016 Newmar Ventana 3709 -ISB6.7 XT 360HP
2015 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited toad
Formerly: Trailmanor 2720SL
  de N8GGG

Sun2Retire

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2017, 09:19:18 AM »
With the engine not running, and the RV not plugged in to shore power, put a volt meter on the house battery. My guess is it is connected but dead and you will see well below 12 volts.
Scott
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joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2017, 03:14:45 PM »
thanks for the help everyone! house batteries dead - 11.82 v checked this AM

will have to replace

when charged - can they run the frdige on dc power? or just power the control system?

Alfa38User

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2017, 03:25:08 PM »
Depends on the fridge make and model. Some are 3 way (propane, 120V AC, 12V DC). Many (most?) are two way, Propane and 120V AC. They ALL require 12V for the control system. 12V operation, when available, is a power hog and most would recommend against using it.

When Auto is selected, the fridge will  automagically use 120V AC if/when it is detected as being available. If not detected, the fridge will default to propane operation. If Auto is not selected, the fridge will go directly to propane operation.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2017, 03:30:48 PM by Alfa38User »
Stu
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Larry N.

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2017, 08:45:43 PM »
From your description you have a 120V AC/LP fridge, not one that will run on 12V DC.  The 12V for your unit is only for the control board, not for cooling. Stu has listed the details above.
Larry and Mary Ann N.
2016 Newmar Ventana 3709 -ISB6.7 XT 360HP
2015 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited toad
Formerly: Trailmanor 2720SL
  de N8GGG

joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2017, 12:43:04 PM »
thanks for everyones help so far!

the batteries do NOT charge when i have AC power on either via shoreline or generator, only when the engine is on with the alternator running

then the batteries all have voltages of 13+

does this mean the charge converter is not working? or could this be how it was designed?

Charlie 5320

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2017, 04:32:34 PM »
thanks for everyones help so far!

the batteries do NOT charge when i have AC power on either via shoreline or generator, only when the engine is on with the alternator running

then the batteries all have voltages of 13+

does this mean the charge converter is not working? or could this be how it was designed?


It wasn't designed like that. You have a problem either with the converter, circuit breaker , either 12v or 120 vac. You need to find the converter and see if you have power going to it and the voltage leaving it. If you have a Magnetec power panel let us know the model number. If it is brown and has both 120 circuit breakers and 12 v fuses, the converter is in the bottom of the unit. If you take the complete cover off of the panel you will see the converter, but BE CAREFUL there is 120 vac if you are plugged in or running the generator. You can test the voltage on the 12v side of the panel with out removal, it will be on the very right side near the fuses. Could be 2 terminals or three depending on what model you have. 

edit: Fixed missing close quote tag
« Last Edit: September 22, 2017, 05:01:25 PM by Lou Schneider »
2003 National Dolphin 5320
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98 Damon Daybreak 3130
GM Vortech 454  4L80E
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John From Detroit

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2017, 05:23:56 PM »
If the batteries do not charge on Shore/Generator power but DO on Engine power.. ODDS are (And I stress ODDS) the converter is toast.. BUT. As I said ODDS.

I"ve also seen the circuit breaker trip
And on MY RV the converter is a plug in model.. Guess what happens.. I usually figure it out long about 3 am too boot.

And though I've not seen this.  I can imagine the rig being wired so the engine charges HOUSE batteries EVEN if the disconnect is in the "Disconnected" position.. Mine does not do that at least as far as I know it does not do that. But who knows without testing if yours does.

The first thing I'd check is the battery disconnect.  ($0.00 if that's it) Then the converter circuit breaker (Resetting is likewise free) then the converter Reverse Polarity fuses (Low cost) then the converter (Higher cost)

Best converter to use as replacement..... Progressive Dynamics

For a "Stand alone" box. 9200
For a combination power distribution panel converter (The electronics are behind the fuse/breaker panel) use the 4600

Dongles optional .. I have only pushed my dongle button on rare occasions  And I know how it works .:)
Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business
My Home is where I park it.

joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #12 on: September 23, 2017, 05:24:23 PM »
thanks guys!

i have a 1990 chevy malard sprinter on  a p30 chasis  - any idea where to find the battery disconnect? or the converter? im not even sure where to start with finding them

joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #13 on: September 23, 2017, 05:36:25 PM »
and even if when on shore/generator power, DC works but the batteries  do not charge, it  still could be the converter?

Charlie 5320

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2017, 08:47:40 PM »
and even if when on shore/generator power, DC works but the batteries  do not charge, it  still could be the converter?
That again depends on the model of power panel you have. Certain Magnetec power panels contained the converter with 2 outputs. One supplied power to about 1/2 of the fuses and the charger portion charged the batteries and supplied power to the other fuses.

You keep asking questions without providing us any info on what you have. Hard to help you without knowing what you have.
2003 National Dolphin 5320
496  8.1  Workhorse

98 Damon Daybreak 3130
GM Vortech 454  4L80E
SOLD

joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #15 on: September 24, 2017, 04:32:20 PM »
That again depends on the model of power panel you have. Certain Magnetec power panels contained the converter with 2 outputs. One supplied power to about 1/2 of the fuses and the charger portion charged the batteries and supplied power to the other fuses.

You keep asking questions without providing us any info on what you have. Hard to help you without knowing what you have.

yeah sorry im pretty new to this and i actually dont k now what i have... also the rv is at my in laws because i live in an apartment and wont be back for another2-3 days

will let you guys know the next time i investigate

thanks!!

joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2017, 07:20:21 PM »
okay so i took some pictures and video of all of the electrical things i found underneath the steering wheel.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TQbpZwkDeODLpLz62

could any of these be the power converter? especially the one near the fuse box? to the left of it?

also  found a manual for "series 6300a power center" if that helps
« Last Edit: September 28, 2017, 08:11:52 PM by joshtb86 »

B737doc

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  • 1992 Challenger
Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #17 on: September 29, 2017, 04:52:35 PM »
1992 Chevy frame "Challenger".    I've had it a month now, an here's what I learned.  2 batteries mounted under the exterior "hood" if you will. Started the big V-8 (454), and had 13.6+ VDC at only one of those batteries.  The other battery read 11.2 and dropping.  I found a newly mounted "Off-On" switch under the drivers seat and selected the "On" position.  Both batteries now reading 13.5 volts.  Yours should have this switch also. It must be selected "ON" to charge both batteries from the engine alternator OR the charger/rectifier.   Hope this Helps! 
1976 BMW R90/6 "Airhead"
2005 Triumph Bonneville "America"
1992 Challenger Motorcoach

Alfa38User

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #18 on: September 30, 2017, 08:15:52 AM »
That "series 6300 power centre" sounds like a Magnetek unit, picture below. It would usually have a metal door and inside you will likely find both fuses (12V) and circuit breakers (120V). The converter is built into this unit behind the lower grilled door. It will NOT be under the dash but more likely in the end of a bench, side of the bed, under the fridge etc. This converter is a very old style single stage charger and you would really benefit with a retrofit  to a three stage charging system that can be easily installed using a kit that is readily available.

http://www.bestconverter.com/MagnetekParallax-630073008300-Upgrade-Kits_c_64.html

All those pictures you took are part of the trucks electrical system, not the coach
« Last Edit: September 30, 2017, 08:41:41 AM by Alfa38User »
Stu
Montréal, Canada 🍁
Snowbird, Naples Florida
Alfa Gold 38 (2000) 5ver (parked!)

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joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2017, 09:24:02 PM »
okay - found the power converter

looks like everything is hooked up correctly

here is a link to a bunch of pictures and a video

any idea where to start?  i read the instructions and everything looks like its connected correctly

https://photos.app.goo.gl/IZNgGkKzg1a2Hglm1

Charlie 5320

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2017, 11:29:07 PM »
okay - found the power converter

looks like everything is hooked up correctly

here is a link to a bunch of pictures and a video

any idea where to start?  i read the instructions and everything looks like its connected correctly

https://photos.app.goo.gl/IZNgGkKzg1a2Hglm1
First thing, take the front panel off. The converter will be below the breakers and fuses in the lower section. With a meter check the input, will be on the left side, and the wires will go to one of the breakers and ground. If you have 120 volts check the out put, those wires are on the right side in the fuse panel. If you have no out put, bestconverters.com has replacement modules that fit that space, and come with great instructions how to do it. Heres the link.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4645V-45-Amp-Converter-Upgrade-Optional-Remote-Pendant_p_351.html#.WdxOMGhSw2w

If you are thinking about increasing you battery bank I'd go with the PD4655.
« Last Edit: October 09, 2017, 11:38:59 PM by Charlie 5320 »
2003 National Dolphin 5320
496  8.1  Workhorse

98 Damon Daybreak 3130
GM Vortech 454  4L80E
SOLD

joshtb86

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Re: 1992 Chevy Mallard Sprinter Electrical Problems
« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2017, 09:08:58 AM »
First thing, take the front panel off. The converter will be below the breakers and fuses in the lower section. With a meter check the input, will be on the left side, and the wires will go to one of the breakers and ground. If you have 120 volts check the out put, those wires are on the right side in the fuse panel. If you have no out put, bestconverters.com has replacement modules that fit that space, and come with great instructions how to do it. Heres the link.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4645V-45-Amp-Converter-Upgrade-Optional-Remote-Pendant_p_351.html#.WdxOMGhSw2w

If you are thinking about increasing you battery bank I'd go with the PD4655.

thanks for your help! i wont have a chance to work on it until next week so ill get back to you then!

 

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