Flexible hose for Olympian Wave Heater

I have ordered an Olympian heater and plan to tap into the supply line to the range to attach a flexible hose for the heater.  Are there hoses that can be purchased that have the correct fittings?  Or would one need to be custom made?  I spoke to a mobile RV repair person, but it didn't sound like he was too familiar with them.  He referred me to a propane dealer who can make up a hose.  I went by there but they wanted me to tell them what fittings were required and then they could make the hose. 

I think there needs to be a manual shutoff at the T where the supply is tapped into.  And I wanted a QD to disconnect the hose from the heater.  I'm not sure what else is needed.  I'm not real knowledgeable about propane systems so appreciate any help on this.

Where would one normally go for this hose?  To an RV repair place or is there some other type business that would be better?

Thanks!
Debra

A shut-off would be wise, in my opinion. Just what you need depends on the connector you install in the source line and whatever the Olympic comes with. There is really nothing difficult about it, though, and the gas lines involved are very low pressure (about 0.5 psi).

Yes there are standard low-pressure LP hoses available, but you may find that having one custom-sized is convenient. Here is one kit that might work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4617D0

here are several more variants on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=lp+gas+hose

Thanks Gary for the reply.  I found a manual for the Wave heater on line but I think it is several years old.  So assuming the heater connection hasn't changed, then it is a 3/8" male SAE connection.  So I think the hose that you linked to from Amazon would work as far as the fittings go.  I really only need an 8 ft. hose.  The local shop that makes up the hoses said it would run about $50.  My thought is it would be worth paying a little extra to get the hose in the length I need and not have to worry about an extra 4' of hose.  Particularly since I have limited storage space.  I will wait until the heater arrives to be sure of what connection it has before I order the hose.

Also, yesterday I read the Propane 101 article that you posted.  That was great information and after reading it I am alot more comfortable with the propane appliances in the trailer.  I always had the conception that a propane cylinder (I almost said tank ) was like a bomb that would explode! 

On another note, would you consider it safe to carry a 5 lb cylinder in the back of a pickup truck that has a topper?  I want to get a small tank to use with my Weber grill but need to figure out where I would carry it safely.

I see LP hoses in various lengths, but they are typically either fairly short (3-5 ft) or long (12-15 ft). Since you are setting up a semi-permanent hook-up, I think it's worth the expense to get one made to size. The only caveat is to be sure where the heater is going to sit while in use. Often our initial idea about that turns out to be less than ideal.

You might consider planning for a two-piece hose, one that reaches out to a fairly close spot and a second one that can be plugged in as an extension if you want to place the heater elsewhere. The second one could probably one of the semi-standard lengths. I used to carry a couple different lengths of LP hose for that reason.

Good suggestion, thanks.

RV Solar Electric in Scottsdale, AZ sells a kit with just about everything you need to tap into your RV's propane line and install a quick disconnect for about $110. 
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=28&product_id=61

I have used this kit on 3 RV's over the last 12 years.

I hope you have experience in cutting and flaring copper lines.  Do it so you have a leak is deadly. 

On the point about carrying a propane tank around the big thing to consider is that propane is much heavier than air and without a wind to carry it away it will tend to settle in the lowest point available and pool.  So you can think of it a bit like you would a flammable liquid, if it spilled will it pool and wait for an ignition source, or will it safely flow away and dissipate.

AStravelers said:

RV Solar Electric in Scottsdale, AZ sells a kit with just about everything you need to tap into your RV's propane line and install a quick disconnect for about $110. 
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=28&product_id=61

I have used this kit on 3 RV's over the last 12 years.

I hope you have experience in cutting and flaring copper lines.  Do it so you have a leak is deadly.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I don't see a manual shut off in the kit. I would think that would be good to have.

I was thinking the quick disconnect would be at the heater end, but I don't know if that's how it is normally done. The diagram looks like it is leaving the hose connected to the heater.

Isaac-1 said:

On the point about carrying a propane tank around the big thing to consider is that propane is much heavier than air and without a wind to carry it away it will tend to settle in the lowest point available and pool.  So you can think of it a bit like you would a flammable liquid, if it spilled will it pool and wait for an ignition source, or will it safely flow away and dissipate.

Click to expand...

Yep, that's why I'm wondering if there is enough ventilation in the bed. It certainly isn't air tight as plenty of dust gets in there when I drive on gravel roads. I'm planning to put foam around the tailgate to try to seal it up some.

When not in use, do you want the hose wrapped around the heater (disconnect near the shut off valve) or do you want the hose wound around the cabinet by the shut off valve (disconnect on the heater)?

grashley said:

When not in use, do you want the hose wrapped around the heater (disconnect near the shut off valve) or do you want the hose wound around the cabinet by the shut off valve (disconnect on the heater)?

Click to expand...

My initial thought was to disconnect from the heater and stow the hose in the cabinet. Is there any reason not to do that?  This is the first time I've had one of these heaters so appreciate feedback from others who have used them.

I have always mounted the quick disconnect through a cabinet wall.  It sticks out about one to one and a half inches. 

The reason for mounting through the wall, is I tap into the propane line going to the fridge or stove inside a enclosed cabinet. I have not found a propane line in a cabinet I can access by just opening a door, such as a closet door.  Additionally do you want to leave a cabinet door open and have to try to avoid it when you walk around, when you use the heater.

It is safer to install a cut off valve, but I have not done that any of the 3 RV's I have owned. 

Be sure to keep the Olympian heater very well covered when not used.  Dust collecting on the catalytic pad ruins the heater.  It costs almost the amount of a new one to ship the heater back to Olympian to get the pad replaced. 

BTH I no longer use Olympic heaters.  I use this Kozy World LP heater: https://www.amazon.com/Kozy-World-KWP192-Vent-Free-Infrared/dp/B000ITV9NU/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1506526361&sr=1-3&keywords=kozy+world+vent+free+heaters

It allows me to select 5000BTU, 10,000BTU or 15,000BTU and does not seem as sensitive to dust at the Olympic heaters. 

Al, thanks for the idea of mounting the QD thru a cabinet wall!  I am planning to tap the stove line.  The stove is next to kitchen sink and can access beneath it from the cabinet under the sink.  I was thinking I would have to leave the cabinet door open for the hose. The forced air heater return is under the oven and under that is a panel that is recessed about an inch.  So I think the QD could be mounted there.  I like that much better than passing it thru the open door.  The benefit of the shutoff would be if there was a problem with the heater hose, the line could be shut off and the other propane appliances could still be used.  So I think I will install one.

I ordered a Wave 6 and also the dust cover.  It will adjust from 3k to 6k.  Since my trailer is only 17', I think that should work ok for me.  I really wanted a heater that has a thermostat, but couldn't find one in an appropriate size for a small trailer. 

So with your heater did you leave the hose connected to the heater when storing it?  Now I'm thinking maybe put a QD at each end, then I could disconnect the hose from heater.  I'm just thinking it would be easier to store that way. 

On another note, would you consider it safe to carry a 5 lb cylinder in the back of a pickup truck that has a topper?  I want to get a small tank to use with my Weber grill but need to figure out where I would carry it safely.

Click to expand...

Portable LP bottles are designed to release vapor if excessive pressure develops (high heat, for example). For that reason, DOT regs require that the LP bottle be in a ventilated area.  The bed of a truck with a topper is hardly "sealed", but it probably would retain a pool of LP vapor if the tank did vent or leak. I'd leave a window partially open to create a draft when moving, but the heavy LP vapor can still accumulate when sitting still. Technically there should be an open vent at floor level, or holes in the floor so the heavy vapor can fall through on its own.

Thanks Gary.  That is what I was thinking also, especially if I put weatherproofing around the tail gate.  The only other place I could carry a bottle would be on the rear bumper of the trailer, which creates other safety issues.  My trailer does have a propane connection outside for a grill.  So maybe I will just get a hose for that and also carry the 1 lb bottle in case I can't situate the grill close enough to use the hose.  I've tried to figure out what I would need to use that connection for the grill but it's confusing to me.  I don't like using the disposable 1 lb bottles for cost as well as environmental reasons.

Debra17 said:

Al, thanks for the idea of mounting the QD thru a cabinet wall!  I am planning to tap the stove line.  The stove is next to kitchen sink and can access beneath it from the cabinet under the sink.  I was thinking I would have to leave the cabinet door open for the hose. The forced air heater return is under the oven and under that is a panel that is recessed about an inch.  So I think the QD could be mounted there.  I like that much better than passing it thru the open door.  The benefit of the shutoff would be if there was a problem with the heater hose, the line could be shut off and the other propane appliances could still be used.  So I think I will install one.

I ordered a Wave 6 and also the dust cover.  It will adjust from 3k to 6k.  Since my trailer is only 17', I think that should work ok for me.  I really wanted a heater that has a thermostat, but couldn't find one in an appropriate size for a small trailer. 

So with your heater did you leave the hose connected to the heater when storing it?  Now I'm thinking maybe put a QD at each end, then I could disconnect the hose from heater.  I'm just thinking it would be easier to store that way.

Click to expand...

I just coil the hose around the feet of the heater and secure the end with a Velcro strap.

Did you order the feet for the heater?  I believe they are an accessory and doesn't come with the heater.

The wave 6 should work just fine in a 17' trailer.  You may find you will only need to run it on the 3K mode.

Be sure to use proper ventilation.  Open a window a an inch or two and the ceiling vent an inch or two.  There are warnings and instructions which come with the heater.

Ventilation is very important, these heaters give off CO2 (Carbon Dioxide) and a lot of water vapor.  The ventilation helps keep the humidity from building up as well as the CO2. 

Be sure to install a CO (Carbon Monoxide) detector.  You should have one even if you don't have the Olympian heater. 

BTW, we have used the catalytic heaters for 12 years and love them. 

Cool, I may just do the same thing with the hose.  I did order the feet.  There is a blogger who has the same trailer I have who used a Wave 3.  He commented that if buying again, he would get the Wave 6.  I agree I will probably use it on 3k most of the time.  But it will be nice to have the extra capacity if needed. I plan to follow the weather, but as we all know, stuff happens   Will definitely ventilate when using.  My trailer has a CO detector and propane detector.

I should receive the heater by end of week and have the hose made up in a few days.  Have an installer lined up to install the hose once I have everything.  So should be set just in time for winter!

Sounds like a good plan. 

The 6000 BTU is great to get the trailer warmed up the first thing in the morning. 

Well, I'm back to the drawing board on the hose for my heater.  The local dealer decided they won't sell any parts for inside a trailer due to insurance reasons.  So not trying to find one on amazon.  All these fittings and sizes are so confusing.

AStravelers said:

RV Solar Electric in Scottsdale, AZ sells a kit with just about everything you need to tap into your RV's propane line and install a quick disconnect for about $110. 
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=28&product_id=61

I have used this kit on 3 RV's over the last 12 years.

I hope you have experience in cutting and flaring copper lines.  Do it so you have a leak is deadly.

Click to expand...

You can order a kit from the link above.

Yes all the copper fittings needed are confusing.