Don't do as I did when applying ZEP

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I have never seen instructions for Zep to use water and pour a cap full on the rag. I can understand why it looks terrible. We did ours two years ago and other than an annual maintenance coat, it looks as good today as the day we did it. The process is simple but important. Scrub the entire coach with powdered barkeepers friend and a fine scrub pad, rinsing thoroughly. Then wash the entire coach down with a solution of TSP. Let everything dry completely. Pour the Zep out of the container and into a bucket. Only pour small amounts at a time. Maybe an inch in the bottom of the bucket. Using a LINT FREE rag, folded in quarters, soak up some of he Zep, wring out the rag so it is damp and not dripping wet. Wipe down the coach, one coat at a time until you have five coats applied, regularly soaking and wringing out. It's important to spread thin coats so there is no runs. That's it. Our 1999 Bounder finished looks like new and has held up just fine on our current trip. We just surpassed 10,000 miles and have about 3 months left to go. Chuck
 
chuckbear said:
I have never seen instructions for Zep to use water and pour a cap full on the rag. I can understand why it looks terrible.
Click to expand...

Well here they are:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGAjiUA3h3I

Remember, DO NOT use any water. Start out with a dry micro fiber cloth.
 
Unfortunately the instructions are totally incorrect. There are probably hundreds of other videos with the correct instructions. Sorry you got mislead but remember, just because it's on the internet, doesn't mean it's true. Good luck with the redo. Once done right, you should be very happy. Chuck
 
chuckbear said:
Unfortunately the instructions are totally incorrect. There are probably hundreds of other videos with the correct instructions. Sorry you got mislead but remember, just because it's on the internet, doesn't mean it's true. Good luck with the redo. Once done right, you should be very happy. Chuck
Click to expand...

I did strip it to what I thought was good enough but I guess it wasn't. After putting on 4 coats the correct way after stripping and washing, , I can still see a little bit of swirl marks from the original application. Don't believe anyone will notice it unless they go right up to it and look real hard.  Even with that, I am still very pleased.  I did the front cap the correct way and it looks perfect. When we get home from FL next spring, I may just strip it down again and start over. It's only on my slide out wall. I'm waiting now for the guy to buff the rest of the RV so I can finish the Zep application on the remainder of the rig.

Here are couple of tips:

Make sure the RV is super clean and all the oxidation is gone.
Apply the Zep with a clean/dry Micro Fiber cloth.
Fold the cloth so as to end up with a 6" X 6" square or there about.
Pour some Zep on the cloth maybe 1/4 cup. You don't want it dripping wet.
Apply the Zep by rubbing back and forth a few times in a couple of directions.
When you feel a little resistance, STOP. Don't try to go over it again. Wait until it dries completely.
Step back and look very closely for any runs. Get them now before they dry.
I believe three coats would be enough. I went with 4. It doesn't take long to apply.
After about 20 minutes apply another coat.

 
 
I seem to recall for the acrylic stuff I used on the coach....and the stuff my mom used to put on floors... the directions were to apply small qty to a damp rag.
As in no dripping wet, just damp.  I think it helps to distribute the stuff a bit.... but honestly I can't see where it matters that much if the rag is dampened first with water or just dampened with the polish....
 
blw2 said:
I seem to recall for the acrylic stuff I used on the coach....and the stuff my mom used to put on floors... the directions were to apply small qty to a damp rag.
As in no dripping wet, just damp.  I think it helps to distribute the stuff a bit.... but honestly I can't see where it matters that much if the rag is dampened first with water or just dampened with the polish....
Click to expand...

Brad, in my situation with Zep, I think it thinned it out too much and went on sparsely causing streaks. And the next coat just covered it but was stll visible. I think the first coat is the critical one. If it's not done correctly, it will show and any subsequent coats will not cover it. It just magnifies it. It's the same as clear coating a car which had a terrible paint job.
 
blw2 said:
As in no dripping wet, just damp.  I think it helps to distribute the stuff a bit.... but honestly I can't see where it matters that much if the rag is dampened first with water or just dampened with the polish....
Click to expand...

There should be absolutely NO WATER used in the ZEP process. Other than washing. Chuck
 
I know some folks get a lot of enjoyment from doing things like this themselves. For me reading this post helped me validate my theory of how much is my time and labor worth, how much aggravation do I save myself, and do I need to invest in any specialty items to accomplish the task, vs the cost of having a professional do the job.  I am not very mechanically inclined, so more often than not, I'll let the pros do what they do best, in half the time it takes me, usually with better results and more often than not at a break even cost.  :)
 
    I put this on about 5 years ago and wish I never had. I have used the remover that is made for it along with many other products and the only two things that I have found that work well is wet sanding and lacquer thinner. It developed a mold underneath and looked so bad I have pressure washed it many times, with plain water and with house cleaner.
    It looked really great for several months and we were all impressed wit how good it looked. Just too bad mine went bad so quick.
    We still have a lot of it and use it now just for the floors inside.
 
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