EPDM Coatings
rvupgradestore.com Composet Products Custom Yacht Interiors

Author Topic: Water Pump  (Read 1024 times)

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Water Pump
« on: September 28, 2017, 09:58:22 AM »
My water pump when on and not being activated by someone turning on the tap will run for about two to three seconds then shut off for two to three minutes, then run again repeating the same cycle again and again.  I have checked all of the connections that I could and all are tight with no leaks.  I have checked the basement and under the coach and can find no evidence of a leak.  I have also turned off the ice maker and water supply to same.  I suspect that there is a leak somewhere. When not using water, we turn off the pump.  Any help you can give me to find the leak would be appreciated.  Thanks.
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

jubileee

  • ---
  • Posts: 301
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2017, 10:05:59 AM »
Toilet? Sounds like very small leak. Could be in pump itself.

Old Blevins

  • ---
  • Posts: 501
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2017, 10:09:23 AM »
 Since you are seeing no signs of a leak, there's a pretty good chance that the check valve that keeps the water from flowing back into the water tank is failing.   This reduces the pressure in the waterline, and as a result, your pump cycles.   You might consider installing a check valve on the inlet side of your water pump.
Jim
------------------------------------
2006 Silverado SRW 1-Ton 4WD Diesel
2006 Arctic Fox 29V
1985 Brawley 2-Horse Straight-Load Trailer

Gary RV_Wizard

  • Forum Staff
  • ---
  • *
  • Posts: 60733
  • RVer Emeritus
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2017, 10:40:00 AM »
What Old Blevins says...
Gary
--------------
Gary Brinck
Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

jubileee

  • ---
  • Posts: 301
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2017, 11:11:54 AM »
Since you are seeing no signs of a leak, there's a pretty good chance that the check valve that keeps the water from flowing back into the water tank is failing.   This reduces the pressure in the waterline, and as a result, your pump cycles.   You might consider installing a check valve on the inlet side of your water pump.

If the check valve in the pump is leaking, which is what I meant when I said it might be in the pump itself, then just kit the pump. I kitted a SurFlo (not in rv service, but same as in my mh) last week for just over $13. You can rig up a shut off valve on the suction side of pump, shut the valve off when pump is pressured, (off) if pump still cycles, you have a downstream leak. If it doesn't cycle, the pump needs a kit.

Rene T

  • ---
  • Posts: 10009
  • Great being on the right side of the grass
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2017, 11:29:18 AM »
Since you are seeing no signs of a leak, there's a pretty good chance that the check valve that keeps the water from flowing back into the water tank is failing.   This reduces the pressure in the waterline, and as a result, your pump cycles.   You might consider installing a check valve on the inlet side of your water pump.

Or a couple of other  causes could be if you have a tank fill valve which when hooked up to city water and you open this valve, the tank will fill. That valve could be partially open or could be leaking by. Also, Have you checked the check valve at the city water connection? That could be dripping just a bit. 
« Last Edit: September 29, 2017, 04:19:49 AM by Rene T »
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
AKA  Pep N Mem
2011 Chevy Duramax 2500 HD 4X4
2011 Montana High Country 343RL
From the Granite State of NH
& Florida Snowbird in Lakeland FL

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2017, 02:37:41 PM »
Thanks for the feedback.  Will look into the check valve.  Interesting that after I refilled the fresh tank, found that the pump only goes on about every six to seven minutes instead of two to three.  Had the panel that holds the four position switch (Normal, Winterize, City and Fill) replaced last fall by Fleetwood, and the switch is very difficult to turn.  Wondering if I did not have it correctly positioned last time, however, it is still loosing pressure, not as much.  To add insult to injury, my lounge (main) slideout will not function.  Supposed to leave at 11 this am, have reservations in Niagara Falls area for next five days.  Got a RV mechanic to come up on his own time tomorrow to see if he can get them in.  Disconnected the motors, released the brake on the motors and could not get to budge.  Even go a ranger at this NY State park to help to no avail.  No power to the motors, had this happen last spring while in Florida, took it to Fleetwood, they replaced the control board and the control panel.  Getting very frustrated with the quality of this thing.  Many trips to dealer and three trips to Fleetwood.  Another trip ruined by lack of quality.
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

Rene T

  • ---
  • Posts: 10009
  • Great being on the right side of the grass
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2017, 03:13:20 PM »
The correct name for it is a valve not a switch. Now there may be an instance where a valve is electrically operated by a switch but not in your case. I would go back to that valve and cycle it several times then position it in the City position and see what happens.
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
AKA  Pep N Mem
2011 Chevy Duramax 2500 HD 4X4
2011 Montana High Country 343RL
From the Granite State of NH
& Florida Snowbird in Lakeland FL

JudyJB

  • ---
  • Posts: 947
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2017, 04:32:01 PM »
You and I messaged back and forth about water pumps a couple of years ago.  I am the lady who has gone through 6 water pumps in a little over five years.  If you remember, what mine does is run fine as long as I use it every day.  If I use city water for a few days and then try to use the water pump and work from my tanks, like when I am driving, it refuses to pump water.  It takes several minutes of dry-running to get it to produce water, and sometimes it has taken an hour. Mine does not do the cycling yours does, but it will run briefly every couple of hours, so I turn it off at night.

I think both of us have a small air leak in the water system somewhere, but I have had mine checked at the factory, and no one can find anything.  In any case, I still have pumps fail about once a year or slightly more often.  I have come up with two ways of living with this problem:  1) I will "exercise" my pump every couple of days, shutting off city water and running pump for an hour or so, and 2) I bought a new water pump from CW in Florida last March and bought their extended three-year warranty.  What this means is that I pay only labor on getting a new water pump installed, which is what I did last month.

Lousy solution, I know, but I will be interested in hearing if you come up with a permanent solution.

Also interesting that we both have Fleetwood motorhomes.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2017, 04:35:24 PM by JudyJB »
Full-timing for over five years in a
2012 Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 31N

JudyJB

  • ---
  • Posts: 947
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2017, 04:40:49 PM »
A tip about the slide.  I had one refuse to close in early May.  It worked intermittently, so at least I got it closed to take it to dealer.

Took them three hours to discover that the problem was a fuse.  BUT, it was not a fuse on the fuse panel, as you might expect.  They had to pull paneling back and crawl underneath the vehicle to discover that there was another fuse, specifically for the slide.  And where in the heck did Fleetwood choose to hide this fuse???????  (And where I might hide cash and my jewelry someday???)

It was underneath my bed in a plywood compartment that was screwed together and contained my converter and the rear furnace!!!  Took five minutes to replace the fuse, but charged me for two hours of labor even though it took two guys almost three hours.  At least next time, I can direct a repair person to the right location. 
Full-timing for over five years in a
2012 Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 31N

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump & Slide
« Reply #10 on: September 30, 2017, 08:33:23 AM »
Thanks, Rene & Judy for your comments.  Will flip the "valve" a few times and see if that solves the problem.  Regarding the slide, Judy, my coach has all of the fuses, circuit breakers, etc. in the Battery Control box located in the basement next to the front door steps, according to all the drawings that I have and Fleetwood tech service. 
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

Larry N.

  • ---
  • Posts: 4473
  • Westminster, CO
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #11 on: September 30, 2017, 10:31:45 AM »
Quote
my coach has all of the fuses, circuit breakers, etc. in the Battery Control box located in the basement next to the front door steps

Even so, there sometimes is an inline fuse or circuit breaker that is behind a wall, or in some other awkward to find/access location. The 20210 Bounder 33U I had turned out to have one resettable DC circuit breaker behind the wall board next to the stairs -- I had to remove screws and paneling to get to it, and it took a call to Fleetwood support to discover the location.

So the docs may be missing something -- just be prepared, just in case...
Larry and Mary Ann N.
2016 Newmar Ventana 3709 -ISB6.7 XT 360HP
2015 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited toad
Formerly: Trailmanor 2720SL
  de N8GGG

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump & Slide Out
« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2017, 06:24:35 PM »
Flipped the valve several times with no luck, and had the mechanic who came out to help with the slide problem look at it.  His feeing is that the valve is failing and should be replaced.  Good news is that one of the wires in the connector in back of the Slide Out control panel was loose.  He put it back in and wala! the slide worked.  Feels that the control panel may be failing so keep an eye on it and possibly get a spare.  Unfortunately, traveling, so can't order and weekend, RV shops are closed til Monday.  Life is good, now we can move on to he next NY State Park which seem to be great!
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

Rene T

  • ---
  • Posts: 10009
  • Great being on the right side of the grass
Re: Water Pump & Slide Out
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2017, 06:57:16 PM »
Flipped the valve several times with no luck, and had the mechanic who came out to help with the slide problem look at it.  His feeing is that the valve is failing and should be replaced.  Good news is that one of the wires in the connector in back of the Slide Out control panel was loose.  He put it back in and wala! the slide worked.  Feels that the control panel may be failing so keep an eye on it and possibly get a spare.  Unfortunately, traveling, so can't order and weekend, RV shops are closed til Monday.  Life is good, now we can move on to he next NY State Park which seem to be great!

Please let us know when you fix the pump problem and what the solution was.
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
AKA  Pep N Mem
2011 Chevy Duramax 2500 HD 4X4
2011 Montana High Country 343RL
From the Granite State of NH
& Florida Snowbird in Lakeland FL

JudyJB

  • ---
  • Posts: 947
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2017, 10:53:17 PM »
I thought all the fuses were located in the fuse box also, but not true.  And the mechanic said this fuse was not identified on the drawings.  All I know was that the mechanics said there was often another fuse and found it.  I had already checked all the fuses in the panel.  Cost of fuse was a couple of dollars, but labor to find it was expensive.  I don't know if it was an inline circuit breaker or what, but they called it a fuse and it fixed it.

Anyway, glad he found the loose wire.
Full-timing for over five years in a
2012 Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 31N

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #15 on: October 02, 2017, 08:03:32 PM »
Life is not good again.  Moved to new campground on Sunday, set up, and all was good.  Today, decided to go to another site we liked better, and was unable to get lounge/galley slide out in.  Bedroom went in with no problem.  Pulled the motor control panel and checked that wires were properly secured.  They were.  Tried several things to no avail.  Tried to get a service tech, no luck for weeks.  Activated my Good Sam Roadside assistance, and they can be here in an hour and one half at the most.  Decided since we were here, that we would see the sights, and go home on Thursday instead of continuing on.  This is the fourth trip that Fleetwood has ruined due to poor quality.  Not interested in going to Indiana for the fourth time.  Anyone know of a good lemon lawyer?  Also, valve for water is getting worse.  Can only have pump on when using water.
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

Danny Pyle

  • ---
  • Posts: 33
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #16 on: October 03, 2017, 02:00:38 PM »
My water pump when on and not being activated by someone turning on the tap will run for about two to three seconds then shut off for two to three minutes, then run again repeating the same cycle again and again.  I have checked all of the connections that I could and all are tight with no leaks.  I have checked the basement and under the coach and can find no evidence of a leak.  I have also turned off the ice maker and water supply to same.  I suspect that there is a leak somewhere. When not using water, we turn off the pump.  Any help you can give me to find the leak would be appreciated.  Thanks.
If your pump is an Artis pump there is a pressure switch adjustment on the back of the pump covered by a sticker. It takes a 2mm Allen wrench to adjust it. Tech said to just turn it in quarter turn increments. Mine wasn't shutting off after pressurizing and overheated.
2017 Z-1 231FB
Chandlersville, Oh.
2017 Ford F-250 Supercab 6.2L

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #17 on: October 03, 2017, 06:42:39 PM »
Thanks, but not an Artis.
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

JudyJB

  • ---
  • Posts: 947
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #18 on: October 03, 2017, 11:52:59 PM »
Have you tried calling Shur-Flo?  Customer service technician asked me to send them one of my old pumps, but I still think it was Fleetwood.  I have been happy with everything else they have repaired on my RV, but that pump is still not fixed, but my problem is a lot less serious than yours.
Full-timing for over five years in a
2012 Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 31N

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #19 on: October 04, 2017, 12:42:03 PM »
Haven't tried calling Sure-Flo, but thanks for the suggestion.  Will do.  Pretty sure it is the valve. Very difficult to turn.
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2017, 04:17:34 PM »
Talked to Anderson Brass Company who makes the Kantleak (200RV) 4 Function Fill Station and was advised that they had a problem with their injection molded stem that is controlled by the four position switch on the front.  I had taken mine apart yesterday and found pieces of washer or gasket material in it, which I am sure caused it to leak.  Anderson gave me the name of one of their distributors, Robo-Fit, Inc., Chagrin Falls, OH who is shipping me the 200RV-RK (Repair Kit) today.  Anderson also suggested that my problem could be caused by the check valve in the Sure Flow water pump.  So, if I still have a problem will go down that road.  Stay tuned Rene! 
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

McKannick

  • ---
  • Posts: 6
    • Surviving Urban Crisis
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2017, 08:49:49 PM »
Relating to your slide out refusing to budge time and again...seems par for the course, sooner or later all slide units die / strip gears / burn up a motor / blow a hose / blow totally hidden fuses or some other hassle. Bad luck either way if it won't go out when you arrive or won't go in when you need to leave. :(
This may help if it's electric and stuck out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0ETwE3SrCM
Ever been campin' in a VW Westfalia camper van? Then, you're 'bout as old as me.

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #22 on: October 11, 2017, 07:19:26 AM »
Hi McKannick, thanks for the You Tube Video site on slide outs.  My unit is a class A with rack and pinion, so the specific video wasn't appropriate.  However, it did lead me to videos that were.  So, thanks a lot!  Right now my problem is electrical in that the front motor is starting faster than the back motor so when extended, the front of the slide out is out an inch or so further than the rear, causing a default.  Will be on the phone today with Fleetwood and Power Gear if Fleetwood can't give me an answer.  Have also ordered a touch pad as well as control box as back up.
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

stevensc

  • ---
  • Posts: 65
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #23 on: October 11, 2017, 07:39:19 AM »
I have had the same water pump problem.  Mine was caused simply because the cap on the hose connection where I connect for winterizing needed to be snugged down.  Tightened down good and no more cycling on and off.
2003 Fleetwood Prowler M-31

Rene T

  • ---
  • Posts: 10009
  • Great being on the right side of the grass
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #24 on: October 11, 2017, 10:31:45 AM »
I have had the same water pump problem.  Mine was caused simply because the cap on the hose connection where I connect for winterizing needed to be snugged down.  Tightened down good and no more cycling on and off.

There is a check valve there and that would have been leaking by. Sometimes all you need to do is push in on the small ball with a pencil a couple of times, and that may reseat it to stop the leak. If you have a screen on the inlet, you'll need to remove it first. Then look in the hole and you'll see a ball.
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
AKA  Pep N Mem
2011 Chevy Duramax 2500 HD 4X4
2011 Montana High Country 343RL
From the Granite State of NH
& Florida Snowbird in Lakeland FL

stevensc

  • ---
  • Posts: 65
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #25 on: October 11, 2017, 01:40:05 PM »
Wouldn't the check valve just keep water from escaping (backflow) but not necessarily keep air from entering?
2003 Fleetwood Prowler M-31

Rene T

  • ---
  • Posts: 10009
  • Great being on the right side of the grass
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #26 on: October 11, 2017, 02:02:34 PM »
Wouldn't the check valve just keep water from escaping (backflow) but not necessarily keep air from entering?

If you're running your pump, you're taking water from the tank and pressurizing the entire system to somewhere around 40 PSI give or take. That much pressure will seat that ball and air will not enter. I never cap mine and the pump works just fine when I use it.
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
AKA  Pep N Mem
2011 Chevy Duramax 2500 HD 4X4
2011 Montana High Country 343RL
From the Granite State of NH
& Florida Snowbird in Lakeland FL

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #27 on: October 11, 2017, 05:51:36 PM »
Thanks for your suggestions.  Regarding slide out, Fleetwood feels panel bad as well as a deeper problem.  Had ordered another panel from PDX RV LLC and they just notified me that the panel they had was bad so can't ship for another two weeks.  Quality control in country sucks!  ISO has none nothing!!!
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

GIB

  • ---
  • Posts: 139
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #28 on: October 11, 2017, 05:59:15 PM »
Your  control valve for winterize city fill heater bypass  may have in raised letters Kant Leak by Andersen . If it is an Andersen Kant leak believe me it can . Their reason for failure is switching city fill to normal for example without shutting off your water supply hose. I blew one of these valves last winter and it filled the fresh water tank and caused a fair bit of damage and half a days work for two men. Fortunately Lazy days stocked them as quite common problem

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #29 on: October 12, 2017, 10:37:54 AM »
Fortunately I've always turned off or disconnected City Water before switching over to Normal.  Don't know why, just did it that way.  Anyway, got the valve replacement in from Robo-Fit in two days for $21.30 delivered.  As stated earlier Anderson told me that they had a problem with some of the injection molded valve stems, causing the gasket or washer material to tear.
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

1PlasticMan1

  • ---
  • Posts: 225
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #30 on: October 15, 2017, 04:14:31 PM »
Hooray!  Installed new valve stem in the Kantleak four function system and it solved the problem.  Had to take the whole unit out as a piece got stuck in one of the tubes leading into the hoses into the coach.  Unable to attach a picture of the gasket that broke on the valve stem.  Indicates file too big.  I even zipped it.  I see other people attach photos, how is it done?
2016 Bounder 33C
2008 T&C - Ltd.
2010 LR2
and Frisco

Gary RV_Wizard

  • Forum Staff
  • ---
  • *
  • Posts: 60733
  • RVer Emeritus
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #31 on: October 15, 2017, 04:47:55 PM »
When using the full screen Reply editor (not the Quick Reply box), you will see at the bottom-left a line that says + Attachments and other options.  That's our code name for the attachment dialog and a few other things!  Just click that line and you will see  another box labeled Attach where you can select the file on our computer to upload.

You can get to the full screen editor by clicking Preview below the Quick Reply box, or by clicking Reply above the message topic.
Gary
--------------
Gary Brinck
Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

Stephen S.

  • ---
  • Posts: 977
  • Marshmallows and Irish Cream. Mmmm.
Re: Water Pump
« Reply #32 on: October 15, 2017, 04:53:01 PM »
Hooray!  Installed new valve stem in the Kantleak four function system and it solved the problem.  Had to take the whole unit out as a piece got stuck in one of the tubes leading into the hoses into the coach.  Unable to attach a picture of the gasket that broke on the valve stem.  Indicates file too big.  I even zipped it.  I see other people attach photos, how is it done?

You will need a file resizing program to reduce pictures to a size that will post here.
Or you can get into your phones camera settings and choose a smaller size to start with.

I recommend the resizing software option. You can always crop and resize from a large image, but can't zoom in well starting with a small image.

With the right software you can add notes, lines, circles, etc. to the image to point out what you are talking about.
Stephen S.
===============
'99 Winnebago Chalet
2002 VW Beetle
2007 Yamaha TW200
Home town: Mableton, GA

 

Hosted by Over The Network