Water Pump

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Talked to Anderson Brass Company who makes the Kantleak (200RV) 4 Function Fill Station and was advised that they had a problem with their injection molded stem that is controlled by the four position switch on the front.  I had taken mine apart yesterday and found pieces of washer or gasket material in it, which I am sure caused it to leak.  Anderson gave me the name of one of their distributors, Robo-Fit, Inc., Chagrin Falls, OH who is shipping me the 200RV-RK (Repair Kit) today.  Anderson also suggested that my problem could be caused by the check valve in the Sure Flow water pump.  So, if I still have a problem will go down that road.  Stay tuned Rene! 
 
Relating to your slide out refusing to budge time and again...seems par for the course, sooner or later all slide units die / strip gears / burn up a motor / blow a hose / blow totally hidden fuses or some other hassle. Bad luck either way if it won't go out when you arrive or won't go in when you need to leave. :(
This may help if it's electric and stuck out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0ETwE3SrCM
 
Hi McKannick, thanks for the You Tube Video site on slide outs.  My unit is a class A with rack and pinion, so the specific video wasn't appropriate.  However, it did lead me to videos that were.  So, thanks a lot!  Right now my problem is electrical in that the front motor is starting faster than the back motor so when extended, the front of the slide out is out an inch or so further than the rear, causing a default.  Will be on the phone today with Fleetwood and Power Gear if Fleetwood can't give me an answer.  Have also ordered a touch pad as well as control box as back up.
 
I have had the same water pump problem.  Mine was caused simply because the cap on the hose connection where I connect for winterizing needed to be snugged down.  Tightened down good and no more cycling on and off.
 
stevensc said:
I have had the same water pump problem.  Mine was caused simply because the cap on the hose connection where I connect for winterizing needed to be snugged down.  Tightened down good and no more cycling on and off.
Click to expand...

There is a check valve there and that would have been leaking by. Sometimes all you need to do is push in on the small ball with a pencil a couple of times, and that may reseat it to stop the leak. If you have a screen on the inlet, you'll need to remove it first. Then look in the hole and you'll see a ball.
 
stevensc said:
Wouldn't the check valve just keep water from escaping (backflow) but not necessarily keep air from entering?
Click to expand...

If you're running your pump, you're taking water from the tank and pressurizing the entire system to somewhere around 40 PSI give or take. That much pressure will seat that ball and air will not enter. I never cap mine and the pump works just fine when I use it.
 
Thanks for your suggestions.  Regarding slide out, Fleetwood feels panel bad as well as a deeper problem.  Had ordered another panel from PDX RV LLC and they just notified me that the panel they had was bad so can't ship for another two weeks.  Quality control in country sucks!  ISO has none nothing!!!
 
Your  control valve for winterize city fill heater bypass  may have in raised letters Kant Leak by Andersen . If it is an Andersen Kant leak believe me it can . Their reason for failure is switching city fill to normal for example without shutting off your water supply hose. I blew one of these valves last winter and it filled the fresh water tank and caused a fair bit of damage and half a days work for two men. Fortunately Lazy days stocked them as quite common problem
 
Fortunately I've always turned off or disconnected City Water before switching over to Normal.  Don't know why, just did it that way.  Anyway, got the valve replacement in from Robo-Fit in two days for $21.30 delivered.  As stated earlier Anderson told me that they had a problem with some of the injection molded valve stems, causing the gasket or washer material to tear.
 
Hooray!  Installed new valve stem in the Kantleak four function system and it solved the problem.  Had to take the whole unit out as a piece got stuck in one of the tubes leading into the hoses into the coach.  Unable to attach a picture of the gasket that broke on the valve stem.  Indicates file too big.  I even zipped it.  I see other people attach photos, how is it done?
 
When using the full screen Reply editor (not the Quick Reply box), you will see at the bottom-left a line that says + Attachments and other options.  That's our code name for the attachment dialog and a few other things!  Just click that line and you will see  another box labeled Attach where you can select the file on our computer to upload.

You can get to the full screen editor by clicking Preview below the Quick Reply box, or by clicking Reply above the message topic.
 
1PlasticMan1 said:
Hooray!  Installed new valve stem in the Kantleak four function system and it solved the problem.  Had to take the whole unit out as a piece got stuck in one of the tubes leading into the hoses into the coach.  Unable to attach a picture of the gasket that broke on the valve stem.  Indicates file too big.  I even zipped it.  I see other people attach photos, how is it done?
Click to expand...

You will need a file resizing program to reduce pictures to a size that will post here.
Or you can get into your phones camera settings and choose a smaller size to start with.

I recommend the resizing software option. You can always crop and resize from a large image, but can't zoom in well starting with a small image.

With the right software you can add notes, lines, circles, etc. to the image to point out what you are talking about.
 
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