ABS light is on

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the coach is a 2008 Itasca sunova, with 40000 miles... the light just can on last week on start up on the coach...checked the fuses and all OK...the brakes are working.
 
I dont own one, just noticed posts about abs but have worked on sensors many years ago on cars etc. I dont know your abilities  but a wheel speed sensor isn't usually difficult to replace.  Of course that's easy to say if you have wrenched all your life. If I was on the road or unable to do much I would probably start buy looking at the disc brake area where the sensors are mounted in the steer knuckle area. Look for wires ripped off, look at the rear differential area as some use ONE sensor in back instead of one at each rear wheel.

If you dont see any damaged wires or connectors I'd try using an air hose to blow the front wheel hubs out just for the heck of it. Wear a mask hold your breath because it's nasty brake dust and road dirt.  If a sensor has failed that wont fix it but it does look like people have cleaned the reluctor ring and sensor at times. I noticed mention of a scan tool to see which sensor has failed. I'm not familiar with it enough to know if an auto parts scan tool can do it.  I'm grabbing at ideas but you might also cycle the key several times. I might not go as far as removing the negative battery cable to reset. If you are at home and any of those tricks clear the light I wouldn't ride off in it, it needs repair. One other trick might be to remove any fuses indicated abs, cruise etc and reinsert them which creates a fresh connection. Do it with the key out of ignition.
 
Has it been worked on recently?  We had an ABS light that stayed on for a long time and everyone said there was nothing wrong with it.  Eventually we were having service performed and a technician discovered a loose connection.  When we had something installed on a previous job that person apparently hit the connection, it loosened, and we had a continuous ABS light.  No more light after it was tightened.

ArdraF
 
No idea what chassis you have but if it's a WOrkhorse.. YOu don't

ON the workhorse Custom Chassis the ABS sensors are metal tubes or cylinders on the backside of each wheel  YOu can pull 'em out and clean 'em and shove 'em back in that the ABS light will go out for a couple miles.. but they get dirty again right away and the light comes back on..  Bad design. nothing you can really do about it.

NOW: on some other vehicles (most) you need to give a lot more info.

On my daughter's car.. you started it and the light behaved normally.. But once you started to move the light came on.. Every expert save one (a dealer) said "Wheel Sensor" (That one was the dealer I took it to for a recall.. I ask them to LOOK at it "Well the light is on, it might be the computer and that's thousands of dollars (IT's worth at most 100) and we are not your regular mechanic...) So I took it to the affiliated but a different brand GM dealer and he looked at it, for about 1 second and spotted the wires off the wheel sensor. a new sensor fixed it.
 
First, the ABS light means the anti-lock system isn't working. It does NOT mean you have no brakes.

The usual reason is a problem with a wheel speed sensor, either the sensor itself or the wiring to it.  If you are handy, look around underneath to see if there are dangling wires by a wheel - it may have been pulled loose or broken.  If you are more mechanically inclined, you can dig into the wheel sensors. Different chassis use different ABS systems, but I'm guessing your '08 Sunova is probably a Ford chassis. Can you identify it?  If a V10 engine, its a Ford...

If you are not mechanically inclined, head to a Ford truck dealer or a brake shop that does ABS stuff as well as brake pads and such.
 
Mine came on once because the brake fluid was low, no leaks, just low for some reason.
 
After suffering through this for many months, with the ABS error popping up each time I drove, I finally got around to going under my RV and pulling out each of the ABS sensors from the metal sleeve and cleaning each of them carefully.  I made sure to reinsert them fully.  Then I went around and measured the resistance on each ABS sensor.  Of the 4 I found 3 that were 1000 ohms - 1400 ohms, but the 4th was only about 450 ohms.  I assumed that this sensor, replaced last year, was faulty. After doing all this work I started the RV and the ABS code popped up within 15 seconds. 

I was going to have the RV repair shop that replaced the front sensors last year replace the one that failed after 6 months (hopefully under warranty).  On my way to their shop the ABS dash icon went out and the ABS warning message stopped appearing.  I called the shop to cancel my appointment and drove the rig home.  My guess is that either it was the grime on the Hall effect sensor, or perhaps one of these was not fully seated, or perhaps I had a bad connection to the sensor.  The experience tells me that perhaps these very sensitive devices can be maintained by me if I am willing to crawl under and do this on a regular basis.
 
It's great that you found and were able to fix it, Joel.  These things are so darned frustrating.  Now I wonder if the OP Remlap ever got his fixed.  He never returned after posting.

ArdraF
 
Sounds like you have a Workhorse.. I gave up on mine.. ABS is an aid, I learned to drive without it.. Just remember if it takes you less than 3 (some ay 4) Seconds to get to where the ride in front of you WAS 3=4 seconds ago.. YOU SRE FOLLOING TOO CLOSE.. back off and brake like you were trained to do way back before ABS.
 
John From Detroit said:
Sounds like you have a Workhorse.. I gave up on mine.. ABS is an aid, I learned to drive without it.. Just remember if it takes you less than 3 (some ay 4) Seconds to get to where the ride in front of you WAS 3=4 seconds ago.. YOU SRE FOLLOING TOO CLOSE.. back off and brake like you were trained to do way back before ABS.

Yes I have the Workhorse W22 chassis. I would agree that ABS is a nice to have and not a must have, but this was most annoying to have a chime every time I started my engine and often overwriting my main display readout with this error message.  Also it was causing a noise when turning that had me worried, but seems to have vanished with this fixed.  I couldn't be happier.
 
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