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Author Topic: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?  (Read 1331 times)

Jeff

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #30 on: October 20, 2017, 08:55:12 PM »
It isn't just the longevity of the true deep cycle but the storage capacity as well. Most RV-Marine batteries have 80-90AH while a pair of Trojan T-105s have 225AH.

JoelP

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #31 on: October 21, 2017, 09:38:40 AM »
It isn't just the longevity of the true deep cycle but the storage capacity as well. Most RV-Marine batteries have 80-90AH while a pair of Trojan T-105s have 225AH.

Yes, well understood. If I find the occasional one night of fan and LEDs lights experience cannot make it through with 80-90 AH I will purchase the Trojans next time.
Joel from San Jose

2010 Itasca Suncruiser 37F
8.1L Chevy Workhorse with Banks PowerPack
2016 CMax Energi Hybrid dinghy

99dart

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #32 on: October 21, 2017, 06:18:04 PM »
For all of us with RV's and multiple vehicles I think having a battery load tester is a must. The one I have is a simple idiot proof, no digital crap to figure out how to make work. It's similar to this Harbor Feight unit;  https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html
It tells me in 10 seconds what would take me an hour otherwise. Removing the battery, lugging the thing to & from the car/RV, having the snot nosed kid at O'Reilly's fiddle around with their digital tester to tell me "it's bad". I don't want to believe him...just sayin'.
2016 Thor Quantum WS31
2014 Ford Focus toad
1998 Four Winds Chateau -- sold

JoelP

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #33 on: October 22, 2017, 07:38:43 AM »
For all of us with RV's and multiple vehicles I think having a battery load tester is a must. The one I have is a simple idiot proof, no digital crap to figure out how to make work. It's similar to this Harbor Feight unit;  https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html
It tells me in 10 seconds what would take me an hour otherwise. Removing the battery, lugging the thing to & from the car/RV, having the snot nosed kid at O'Reilly's fiddle around with their digital tester to tell me "it's bad". I don't want to believe him...just sayin'.

Are you saying that you use this load tester without disconnecting your batteries?  Do you test a pair of batteries still hooked up in parallel and hooked to the RV?
Joel from San Jose

2010 Itasca Suncruiser 37F
8.1L Chevy Workhorse with Banks PowerPack
2016 CMax Energi Hybrid dinghy

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #34 on: October 22, 2017, 07:57:03 AM »
Yes, you can load test while the batteries are connected, as long as shore power is disconnect or the breaker for the converter/charger is shut off (batteries not being charged). And yes, you can test the two 6v's as a pair - they become one 12v battery when wired in series.
Gary
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Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

JoelP

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #35 on: October 23, 2017, 11:01:38 AM »
Yes, you can load test while the batteries are connected, as long as shore power is disconnect or the breaker for the converter/charger is shut off (batteries not being charged). And yes, you can test the two 6v's as a pair - they become one 12v battery when wired in series.

And, I assume the same is true for 2 12V in parallel.
Joel from San Jose

2010 Itasca Suncruiser 37F
8.1L Chevy Workhorse with Banks PowerPack
2016 CMax Energi Hybrid dinghy

QZ

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #36 on: October 23, 2017, 11:26:23 AM »
And, I assume the same is true for 2 12V in parallel.

You would want to separate them. You can test a bank of two sixes as a 12 but if you get a low reading you then need to separate them to see which one is bad. Not that you wouldn't probably replace both. The issue with load testing is that it does no good unless the battery is charged. You can load test a perfectly good battery and get a low reading if the charge is low. Where I have found a load tester to be most effective is when the load is applied and it drops very low very fast and it usually indicates at least one bad cell. You will also see that if you check the Specific gravity. If you take a discharged battery into some auto stores and they test it and it drops low they will say the battery is no good when it may just need a charge or eq. If you cant get it to take a charge it's junk before they even load test it.

If you attempt to fully charge and still see low SG you can then try to equalize. If the SG wont come up after equalizing you can attempt to eq again or higher voltage to drive it up while watching that the bubbles only happen every second or so. It shouldn't be rapidly bubbling. If the battery then seems to work better but just cant keep up as it used to it's junk.  At that point you are just spending time to nurse it along.

99dart

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #37 on: October 23, 2017, 07:20:45 PM »
Are you saying that you use this load tester without disconnecting your batteries?  Do you test a pair of batteries still hooked up in parallel and hooked to the RV?

Up to this point I have never had an RV with multiple batteries. So, I have tested just single batteries from vehicles with single batteries.
 Gary rv wizard stepped in with good info as always! 
2016 Thor Quantum WS31
2014 Ford Focus toad
1998 Four Winds Chateau -- sold

QZ

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #38 on: October 23, 2017, 07:27:16 PM »
Up to this point I have never had an RV with multiple batteries. So, I have tested just single batteries from vehicles with single batteries.
 Gary rv wizard stepped in with good info as always!

Yep,a single battery is a single battery. So even if you have 3 or 4 or more 12's in parallel you need to separate them to test them otherwise you are just testing the bank. When disconnected from parallel and checking, one could be bad and drag the other down so attempt to charge both while separate and re test.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2017, 07:34:08 PM by QZ »

Jeff

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #39 on: October 23, 2017, 08:19:27 PM »
IIRC you are testing the load across the terminals you are connected to, not the bank.

QZ

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Re: Boondocking - do my batteries need to be replaced?
« Reply #40 on: October 23, 2017, 10:05:28 PM »
IIRC you are testing the load across the terminals you are connected to, not the bank.

If you put the load tester cables on battery one you are still drawing on battery two because they are connected together. When two 12's are in parallel they must be disconnected for testing.  That's why they both go down at the same rate when using them. When testing sixes connected in series you can move the test leads from battery to battery and you will only be testing the battery that you are connected to.

« Last Edit: October 24, 2017, 07:00:03 AM by QZ »

 

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