What equipment to take offroad?

Does Lion's Back at Moab qualify as "off road"? You might need more than a snatch strap if you miscalculate there. Tom Jones showed me the pictures of a jeep going up and coming down. After seeing the pictures I wanted to see that activity in person. I was disappointed to find the area fenced with no trespassing signs.  A local said that they were going to put put condos there.

I assume that Al Griefer, who had taken the pictures, bought his baby hummer to take up Lion's Back. Sorry Al, you're too late.

Tom said:

Daisy, over the years of meeting folks in campgrounds, I've got the impression that a lot of renters are European. A couple of years ago I wandered into an El Monte rental center (in California) and, to my surprise, saw a number of brochures in German. It made me think that they specifically target the German tourist market. But it left me wondering about other countries/languages and also what other rental companies do to bridge the language barrier.

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Yew betcha.  I live in LA.  When I rented my first RV from El Monte Rents at their home yard in South El Monte.  I walked into their office their and the clerk immediately addressed me in German.  After that confusion was settled out, some real Germans, a family, walked in.  THey had been picked up at LAX by an El Monte courtesy van and driven across LA, not an inconsiderable trip, to the office where they were renting a monster Class A for a month or so.  With my little 29' TT, I felt definitely downscale.

El Monte has agents all over western Europe and the UK.  Even Glasgow fer cornsakes.  ;D

Carl L

In the 70/s when the job had us in North Dakota we lived in a farm house South of Langdon.  During the winter the driveway would sometimes be blown full of snow.  Now I couldn't say I was snow bound until I had the truck stuck trying to get out.  Most of the time I was able to make it.  On one occasion I got buried up to the point that I had to climb out the window as the snow was half way up the door.  My neighbor came over in his brand new Blazer to pull me out.  Hooked up the nylon rope and he proceeded to give me a yank.. Whoops the tow hook on the Blazer was coming my direction and I ducked.  Inspection revealed that his tow hook hadn't broken but the frame where the tow hook was attached had broken out.  Kind of scary seeing the rope and tow hook coming my way.  Only damage done was the tow hook flew over the Jeep PU but the nylon rope hit the mirror on the passenger side and broke that.  The dealer fixed the blazer at no cost to my neighbor.  I have a very high respect for a stretched nylon rope.

If I had a rescue strap and needed to tow someone out, what would be ideal attachment points for the strap on our Suburban and the towed vehicle? (I removed the tow hooks on the front of the Burb in order to attach the baseplate for towing behind the coach).

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On the towing vehicle - at towbar on front or receiver on rear; if no receiver, wrap it around the axle carrier near the differential. On the stuck vehicle - if from the front, at the towbar if equipped, or around one of the the lower A-arms (whichever side is on the same side as the strap of the towing vehicle); if from the rear, at the hitch receiver if equipped or around the axle carrier near the differential. Front wheel drive cars won't have a diff. in the back, so anywhere near either wheel is better than the center; it's stronger at the wheel. Holds true for the towing vehicle too.

I recall seeing instructions for towing someone out of a stuck situation that suggested thowing an old jacket or clothing over the tow strap about mid span.  The theory was that if one end of the tow strap came loose, the jacket on the tow strap would retard the free end.  I don't know if it works but it sounds plausible.

Another item to add to the list, is a trail book.  They are fill with very useful information.  Like trail etiquette, critters along the way, things to see, and general off road driving tips.  Like driving over large rocks, when to air up or down, and driving up steep hills.  It is also important to know what your vehicle and you are capable of doing.  Or willing to do.

We also have found a pair of rubber auto mats to very useful.  We have pulled out many snow stuck vehicles, which could not get tractions.  Place under a tire.  We got our own burb unstuck this way. 

Ron said:

...  Kind of scary seeing the rope and tow hook coming my way.  ....  I have a very high respect for a stretched nylon rope.

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I spent two weeks on a tug boat in the Navy Reserve many years ago.  I can remember the water pouring out of the big ropes like wringing a washcloth when we backed-down on large ships like a tanker or aircraft carrier.  The tug captain would order everyone off the decks topside.  They told stories of decks wiped clean and men getting cut in half when the ropes would break...

Karl said:

On the towing vehicle - at towbar on front or receiver on rear; if no receiver, wrap it around the axle carrier near the differential. On the stuck vehicle - if from the front, at the towbar if equipped, or around one of the the lower A-arms (whichever side is on the same side as the strap of the towing vehicle); if from the rear, at the hitch receiver if equipped or around the axle carrier near the differential. Front wheel drive cars won't have a diff. in the back, so anywhere near either wheel is better than the center; it's stronger at the wheel. Holds true for the towing vehicle too.

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I would never do that to any of the vehicle I own.  Heard too many stories of broken suspension parts after a recovery of that sort.  I heard successful stories too, but no thanks.  I only use the frame and recovery points bolted to the frame like hitch and tow hooks.

For towing it's not so bad because it's only rolling resistance, but for recovery depending what obstacle the stuck vehicle has to go through, the stress put on the axle and suspension components could be stronger than they can handle.

I would never do that to any of the vehicle I own.  Heard too many stories of broken suspension parts after a recovery of that sort.

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Over the years, we've used that technique at Road America literally thousands of times without a problem or damage of any sort. Short of the frame, the differential and A-arms are the strongest points on a vehicle, and it's nearly impossible to attach to the frame if there aren't attachment points already in place. Granted, leaving slack in the tow strap and gunning it as was mentioned, is something we would NEVER do. Slow and steady gets the job done. 

I am not big on slamming either.  Try slow first, if that fails, then consider other options.  If all else fails and we really have to get out, then go for it.

Karl said:

Granted, leaving slack in the tow strap and gunning it as was mentioned, is something we would NEVER do. Slow and steady gets the job done. 

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I have used the technic of useing energy built up in a proper nylon rope on several occasions to yank rigs out of snow drifts and mud.  If used properly and with the proper type nylon rope damage is not likely to occur.  The use of hooks on the ends of a nylon tow rope is not considered a wise thing to do.  As Ned mentioned placing a nylon loop in the tow reciever and using the pin to secure it is a good practice.

The tow hook that was released from a Blazer I mentioned earlier  was the result of a crack in the frame possibly there since manufacture.  That is why the fix was covered by ther dealer.

IslandHopper said:

It's been said that 4WD simply allows a person to get stuck harder, deeper, and further from the nearest road

I take plenty of water (a few days worth), and don't go more than a few miles from a road unless there's more than one 4x4 going.
Off-road I also bring a shotgun... not so much for protection, but as a source of food... it doesn't bother me to be away from civilization for days at a time.

That recovery strap wrapped around an axle can become a winch in an emergency...

A can of lighter fluid (and a match/lighter) can re-set a tire bead when necessary... the tire may still be flat, but having the bead seated makes it useable...

If it gets really bad, a couple car batteries and some jumper cables can become a welder (you'll need to have brought rods, of course)...

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welding with batteries and jumper cables!!!  I'm putting some rods in the jeep tonight.  I love it.

Marc L said:

Actually, you don't want a tow strap, but a recovery strap.  A two strap is meant to tow a vehicle that is not stuck.  A recovery strap is meant to recover a vehicle that is stuck.  The recovery straps can stretch, so when you start pulling and pick up the slack, the strap will stretch and when it retracts again will give extra momentum for the recovery.

Preferably get straps that don't have hooks, a flying hook can break a window or a head.  The recovery points on the both the recovery and stuck vehicle as well as any pins or shackles used should be stronger than the strap to avoid damage to either vehicle.

Here's a good offroad checklist: http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Offroaders_Checklist.htm  It's a bit too complete, but can be adjusted depending on the location and duration of the trip.

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Good catch in addition to what you said, recovery straps are typically at least 30' in length which usually allows the towing vehicle to stay out of the mess the stuck vehicle is in.  In a tow strap you want a 20' length to prevent other drivers not paying attention from cutting in between the 2-vehicles.