LP / Propane

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
C

ctjahn

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2017
Posts
19
Again a 1996 American Eagle.

Now trying to get the propane to work.  Valve is on and the most basic thing should work?  I tried to light the stovetop but not smelling any gas.  Auto-ignite is flashing.  Furnace isn't working (Well the fan is).  Fridge isn't working on LP either. 

Seems like the regulator?  In the past I was able to turn the burners on to bleed the system.  I cant hear any propane flowing if I turn them on...  I double checked and the tank is on.  Only about 1/4 full though.  I didn't pull the cover off the regulator of pursue further research until I got some pointers..

Prior owner said tank was replaced but not sure if it was used after that.  So, does someone have some tips on troubleshooting and/or a reference?   

Thanks in advance!  [email protected] -

cj
 
The simplest answer could be that the tank is empty and the (notoriously inaccurate) gauge is wrong
 
Good Guess, but I figured if I could open the vent and it blows, there is a bit in there?  I guess the next step is to fill it up.
 
Is there a solenoid-controlled valve in the line, activated by an older-type LP gas detector? 1996 vintage coaches were equipped with them, and perhaps it is still there. The gas/fire code no longer requires them in RVs, so replacements are hard to find and very expensive, so most owners have removed them by now. If the detector is turned off, or has signaled an alarm, or has simply failed, the gas solenoid will be closed and no LP can flow anywhere.
 
Modern propane tanks have a safety valve that stops the flow of propane if the tank is jarred sharply (like during an accident.) That safety valve can also close if the twist-valve is opened too quickly. If you're sure there's propane in the tank, close the valve, wait a few seconds, then slowly open it to the full-open posion. Then try lighting your appliances again.

Kev
 
Thanks Gary,  There is a two wire device after what I believe is the regulator.  That could be it.
Thanks Kevin, I did try turning on and off a few times but will try slower!


 
Loosen the line after the regulator to check for flow through it.  It's only about 0.5 psi downstream from the regulator, so don't expect a loud hiss or a rush of gas. If Ok there, check again at the stove inlet.
 
There is a two wire device after what I believe is the regulator.  That could be it.
Click to expand...

Yeap, that's it. Just remove it and connect the lines together. Then get a new LP detector for the galley area, since the original is long past its useful life and probably worthless as a gas safety alarm.

You should be able to get brass fittings that will couple the ends of the tubing once the valve is removed. A flare double male [union] fitting might be sufficient if the gas valve has flare fittings. It's been so long since I looked at one, I've forgotten how they were plumbed.

Male flare union:
https://www.grainger.com/product/46M525
 
Thanks again!  I will see if its on or not.  (the detector).  And regardless I would like a couple new detectors for safety.  I see too many of these in savage yards burned up when looking for parts.  Not sure I can remove the part entirely without adding a splice but will take a look.  I would prefer to add two old school tanks opposed to the onboard.  Easier to deal with.

For those who haven't followed the story....This unit was either hit by lightning or multiple malfunctions, or plugged into a improperly wired outlet. (Sold as fully functional at auction)  I have made a lot of progress but still struggling with stuff.  Both TV's were shot and removed them this past weekend and ordered cheap small replacements (Flat screen) with mounts. Found a few more fuses blown and as a result fixed the outdoor speakers.  Rewired the cigarette lighter (edit) so now I can have my phone plugged in for GPS.  Rewired the HDMI and cable connections and got that working (I think).  Making progress one day at a time one project at a time but soon I may be 80% functional!  The help is greatly appreciated.

Now if I can find some Dometic RM7732 (side by side) fridge doors I would be doing well... or a complete replacement. It works but someone must have driven it with the doors open and both hinges are damaged.

Thx again
Cj
 
If the detector and the solenoid are still working, just turn the detector on and it should open the solenoid.  The solenoid uses a low voltage pulse, though, so you can't just jumper it with 12v to force it open.
 
Took a look after work (Mind you I work 12-16 per day)

Redflag 1 No power to the detector..... - unscrewed the detector off the wall and it was unplugged.  Plugged it back in and green. (not sure if there is another one I am missing)

Redflag two... pulled the thermostat off the wall and big black mark on the printed ckt board.  Prob need two thermostats... but still no gas.  Switched polarity on the solenoid (knowing they replaced the tank).  and tried turning on the valve more slowly.

Still no gas.  Next is to test the output post solenoid... out of time..

Thx!
Cj
 
At the propane tank fill connection there is a small 3/8 inch diameter knob that always gets opened to let some gas to escape when the tank is filled.  Open it and see if gas comes out.  That vent is goes directly to the tank.
 
Redflag two... pulled the thermostat off the wall and big black mark on the printed ckt board.  Prob need two thermostats... but still no gas.  Switched polarity on the solenoid (knowing they replaced the tank).  and tried turning on the valve more slowly.
Click to expand...

Thermostat? What thermostat?  Not sure what a thermostat has to do with getting LP to flow to the stove...

 
Hi Gary - Was testing any gas flow so I turned the heat on to see if I could get it flowing to the furnace... Stove shouldn't need anything to flow.. most simple appliance but was trying to clear the lines if there was any air in them


Hi AStravelers - if I open the vent on the onboard tank propane comes out.

THx!
Cj
 
HA!  Maybe I shouldn't be multi-tasking while working...

Rewired the 12 volt cigarette lighter to use GPS on my phone...  Was blowing fuses due to a wiring nightmare.  Removed all the excess junk and connections and works fine now.
 
It is possible that there is a lot air in the line and it just needs to bleed.  With a rig this old and that the propane tank was replaced at some time, it would be good to do a leak test.  It wouldn't hurt to call a mobile RV repair person that has the tools to do a leak test. 
 
Thanks folks! Much appreciated! 

It was the solenoid.  I gutted it for now, (5 screws), checked for leaks and was able to get heat and the cooktop working!  Another step forward!

Next up is to test the fridge on gas and the TV replacement this weekend....

BTW:  1/4 tank + left.  Enough for one cold night in Wisconsin?

Cj
 
Maybe. Since we don't know how big the tank is. 1/4 doesn't mean much. I would guess that coach would have an 18-24 gallon of tank, though, so 5-6 gallons left?  That's about 22-26 lbs of LP, so ought to get your through a night using the LP furnace as long as you don't try to keep it at 78 degrees!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 1,153 (members: 24, guests: 1,129)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,932
Posts
1,387,726
Members
137,682
Latest member
duckyw7528
Back
Top Bottom