Can 2013 GMC 2500HD tow this Fifthwheel?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

GCHIKER

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2017
Posts
5
I'm getting so much conflicting info. Feeling stressed.
Purchasing a 2017 Rockwood 5er.
Dry 9,156#,
Payload 1,619# (so I assume GVWR 11,000# ?),
Hitch weight 1,625# but I'm figuring 2,000# real world.
DILEMMA is the truck needed. Looking at a
2013 GMC 2500HD
6.0 Gasser
4x4
Extended cab, standard bed
VIN: 1GT121CG2DF196099
Towing capacities range from 9500-14,000# depending on diff. (This is only one resource. Another one says both diffs can tow over 13,000#.  Don't remember exact numbers)

Problem is I don't know the actual gear ratio. And even if I did, some resources say BOTH rear ends are adequate.  Others say only ONE of them is.

SO, can someone help with identifying which diff it has? I've included the vin to help narrow it down. AND also advise me if this is a good towing match?


 
Fifth wheel towing is not the issue you need to worry about.  Load carrying capacity is.
A fifth wheel drops approx 20% of its true ready to travel weight directly over the rear axle.  Lacking an actual weight take 20% of the GVWR as your starting point.  To determine is the truck would handle the additional load take the truck to the scales loaded ready to travel.  In your case ask the salesman to let you take it across the scales.  The truck probably has a 10,000 GVWR and depending on configuration and how you load it will probably tip the scales around 7500 pounds with hitch.  Meaning you could have around 2500 pounds of CCC.  Could be a bit more or a bit less, but thats a starting point.  So to answer your question in general terms, yes it might work.  Would I do it?  Not in your life.
Two problems I see.  One, real world is NOT hypothetical, and you will likely be far closer to the max that you think.  And two, why limit yourself?  A 3500 SRW is identical in dimensions to a 2500, but has more real world load carrying capacity.  The 6.0L is a good gas motor, but will drink gas by the bucket loads when towing and will run out of steam on long hills pulling near its max load capacity.
 
Yeah, you need to determine whether it has the 3.73 (standard axle) or the 4.10.  This web page has some info on IDing the RPO code for the axle, or you could go to any GM dealer for help.
http://www.sierragear.com/gm-rpo-axle-ratio-identification-codes-3/
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/98313-stock-gear-ratio/

I don't find any source that suggests that configuration can pull more than 9500 lbs with the 3.73 axle. Here is a link to the 2013 official GMC Towing Guide so you can verify for yourself.
https://www.gmc.com/content/dam/GMC/global/master/nscwebsite/en/home/Tools/Download_A_Brochure/01_Images/2013_GMC_Trailering_Guide.pdf

You also need to be concerned with the Payload (carrying capacity) - not all 2500's can carry the 2500-3000 lbs of pin weight that a 13,000 5W.
 
When I was shopping for my current truck back in 2010 the 4.10 gears came with a 12,300 lb tow rating and higher GVWR. The 3.73's were under 10,000. Big difference!


What donn and Gary say about payload also holds true - I lucked out and found one with over 2,900 lbs of payload but many are closer to 2,500 lbs. Even with the 2,900+ payload, however, there is a further restriction in the manual of 2,500 max pin weight (the 1-ton allows up to 3,000 lbs).
 
Awesome to experience such quick responses.
This has made my wife and me very sad. The truck was beautiful.  BUT, rather be sad now than regretful and poor later.

Thank you very much for the wisdom. I'm sure I'll be posting questions often.

 
A few things.

Dry weight means nothing and you shouldn't have to ASSUME what the GVWR of a trailer is - it should be posted on or in the trailer.
No guessing.  Always use the GVWR weight because you will be closer to that any day of the weak vs. dry weight which only happens
when pulling a new trailer home with nothing in it.

Many people use a diesel and most people that had a gas unit and upgraded to a diesel will never go back as long as they have a RV.

For the most part there is no such thing as too much truck - don't skimp on the Truck part - then you won't be regretting it later.  That's my 2?.
 
FIRST, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

The GVWR is indeed dry wt plus carrying capacity, or 11,000# in this case.
Estimate pin wt as 20% of 11,000#, or 2200#.

If I am reading right, you have not yet purchased the FW or truck. (Been there!)  On the truck, open the driver door and look on the latch post for a yellow placard stating the max weight of passengers and cargo shall not exceed XXXX.  That is the REAL payload for THAT truck when it left the factory.  Forget all those published charts developed by the advertising dept.

Add together the weight of all passengers, pets, tools, firewood, your wife's purse and anything else carried in the truck.  Add 200# for a FW hitch.  Add 1100# pin wt.  This must be equal or less than the max carrying capacity of the truck.  It might work, but you will be close to maxed out if it does.

As others, I suggest looking at a 3500 SRW (Single Rear Wheel, not dually).  Unless you see the 3500 markings, it is completely identical to the 2500, inside and out, except for the spring pack and the GVWR / Payload ratings.  Option packages are identical.  On used 3500, prices will also be very close.  If you love camping and want to upgrade the FW, a 2500 is already maxed out, and you will need a different truck.  If you start with the 3500, there is room to grow.

Diesel vs gas is a totally different subject I will let others cover, but I bought an oil burner.  LOVE it!

Keep asking questions!
 
Welcome to the forum! I used to have the same truck with 4.10 rear end but Silverado.  You need a 3500 truck.
 
The only difference between a 2013 2500 and 3500 is the rear ends - on a 3500 only a 3.73 is available and the 3500 has an extra spring leaf and the yellow certification decal.
 
Back
Top Bottom