Anti freeze in water heater

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Captcolby

New member
Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Posts
2
Location
Salt Lake City, Utah
Hey folks,

With my last trailer, I always just blew the lines out for winter and didn't use antifreeze

Recently bought a new trailer after several years off, and decided to winterize with antifreeze.
I didn't get the bypass switched, and filled the water heater with antifreeze.
I've drained the heater at this point, but what do I need to do to really clean it out?

Thanks, Colby.
 
Just rinse it several times. Fill, drain, repeat.

And be sure to use the more expensive propylene glycol antifreeze rather than the cheaper alcohol based stuff. The cheap stuff makes your water taste like crap and dries out the rubber components, gaskets etc. Easy to tell them apart since the good stuff says -75 and the cheap stuff says -50
 
Once the system is sanitized with bleach in the spring, you'll never know that the antifreeze was there.
 
I wouldn't wait till spring to try and clean it out. I would get a flushing wand, remove the pressure/temperature relief valve then flush real good from the top to the bottom. IMHO, I wouldn't want all that antifreeze to settle into any sediment which may be inside the heater.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11691-Water-Heater-Rinser/dp/B002XL2IBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509281954&sr=8-2&keywords=rv+water+heater+flush+wand
 
Rene T said:
I wouldn't wait till spring to try and clean it out. I would get a flushing wand, remove the pressure/temperature relief valve then flush real good from the top to the bottom. IMHO, I wouldn't want all that antifreeze to settle into any sediment which may be inside the heater.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11691-Water-Heater-Rinser/dp/B002XL2IBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509281954&sr=8-2&keywords=rv+water+heater+flush+wand

You don't need to remove the pressure relief valve - just the drain plug.  The flush tool you are showing is used in the drain hole.

Bill
 
And be sure to use the more expensive propylene glycol antifreeze rather than the cheaper alcohol based stuff. The cheap stuff makes your water taste like crap and dries out the rubber components, gaskets etc. Easy to tell them apart since the good stuff says -75 and the cheap stuff says -50

I don't think the temperature rating is a reliable way to distinguish propylene glycol from etanol (alcohol) based potable antifreeze. Dow's product is pure propylene and rated -50. So is the cheaper Supertech from Walmart and that's propylene too. So is Seafit from West Marine.  Camco's Winter Ban is propylene and rated -100.  However, I think Camco's Arctic Ban (-50) is  ethanol-base.

The Splash brand AF (sold at Graingers) is alcohol-based.

If the label doesn't say, ask for the MSDS to find the details.
 
Bill N said:
You don't need to remove the pressure relief valve - just the drain plug.  The flush tool you are showing is used in the drain hole.

Bill

Bill, I was just thinking that with the drain hole not being restricted by the wand, would allow big chinks of sediment to flush out. It only takes a few seconds to remove and reinstall the valve. 
 
Always put some antifreeze in the water heater just for safety sake.Just flush it a couple of times in the spring,won't hurt a thing.
 
pappy437 said:
Always put some antifreeze in the water heater just for safety sake.Just flush it a couple of times in the spring,won't hurt a thing.

When I use to drain mine, I would leave the plug out until spring. There isn't enough water in there to hurt anything.
 
Rene T said:
When I use to drain mine, I would leave the plug out until spring. There isn't enough water in there to hurt anything.

Same here.
 
Rene T said:
When I use to drain mine, I would leave the plug out until spring. There isn't enough water in there to hurt anything.

I just use a short piece of clear hose and syphon the rest of the water out of the heater.  Guess it's not necessary but it is something that is very easy to do and it does take a significant amount of additional water out.

Bill
 
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