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grashley

grashley

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
6,610
Location
Western Kentucky
Okay, I have been here for awhile, but I do not remember this being addressed.

1.  I have a pressure regulator, 2 ea back flow valves and a Y to connect both potable water and tank flush, general use water.  In what order are these assembled?  Back flow on each Y?  Back flow before regulator?  After regulator?  Regulator on potable water only?  Doesn't really matter?

2.  When leveling a FW, I know to level side to side by raising wheels / axles to level first.  Now, for example, the left side is 3 inches higher than the right side.  When I drop the front (or back) jacks, do I need to adjust for this with blocks and / or how far I drop the legs?  How close to level must I be?  Will the jacks compensate or will both jacks extend the exact same amount, possibly torquing the frame or not properly leveling?  On most campers, are they separately adjustable?

My Grand Junction FW also has power deployed rear stabilizers with one control for both sides, so I ask the same question concerning the rear.

As always, thanks for the great advise!

Update on my FW.  The owner is getting a leak / soft floor fixed before completing the sale / delivery.  As you know, RV shops (his choice) are very busy this time if year, and I have no firm delivery date.  I DO have a backup appointment with a dealer here in town - for mid January!
 
I think the pressure regulator should be placed right at the water spigot. It will protect the feeder hose as well as the trailer itself if placed that way. For the tank flush system you will have a vacuum breaker already installed (and likely nicely hidden in a cupboard a foot or so higher than the black tank)  as well as a one way valve or manual shut off valve right at the hose connection itself. This should prevent any possible contaminated water from feeding back into the potable system. An additional one way valve before the flush input can't hurt but might be considered overkill. The regular (potable) water fitting has a one way valve built in to the hose connection in most cases.  At least that is how mine is hooked up.

(As an FYI, the toilet will also have a vacuum breaker hidden in the piping behind it for the same reasons)

I do not use a Y to join the two supplies together but instead use two separate hoses with the flush side not regulated since I already have a double spigot at the water supply itself, but that is me!! A Y would be more convenient at times though...

My powered stabilizers are controlled individually.
 
After seeing what I saw yesterday, I would never hook the flush system up at the same time as the fresh water. 
Guy hooked up to his flush fitting instead of the water inlet.  Discovered this when water started coming out of the roof vent and pouring off the side of his brand new Allegro bus.  Good thing he had dumped the tank before he got to the park.

I do use a Y fitting, usually at the park hose bib.  I have a second, standard green garden hose that I use for flushing the tank and grey water draining only.  Only hook it up when I'm going to use it and then unhook it when I'm done. 

I did have a slight flushing problem in my old coach and don't intend to have to re-carpet this newer coach anytime soon.
 
Alfa38User said:
I think the pressure regulator should be placed right at the water spigot. It will protect the feeder hose as well as the trailer itself if placed that way. For the tank flush you likely have a vacuum breaker already installed just before the black tank as well as a one way valve or shut off valve right at the hose connection itself. This should prevent any possible contaminated water from feeding back into the potable system. An additional one way valve before the flush input can't hurt but might be considered overkill. At least that is how mine is hooked up.

I do not use a Y to join the two supplies together but instead use two separate hoses with the flush side not regulated, but that is me!! A Y would be more convenient though...

My powered stabilizers are controlled individually.
Click to expand...

The CG we're in right now has 2 water spigots. One of them I installed my regulator to control the water going into the RV and the other spigot, I've connected the flush hose. This way I get full CG water pressure when flushing. As Stu said, you should have a vacuum breaker somewhere in the flushing line leading to the tank. This stops the water from the tank from syphoning back. On mine, the fitting where I connect the hose does not have a check valve like the potable water fitting has so I purchased a shut off valve to take care of any water coming back at me if I should need to disconnect the flushing hose. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SOMMERLAND-A1002-Heavy-Brass-Garden/dp/B018Q3SDW4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509894007&sr=8-3&keywords=shut+off+valve+for+garden+hose&dpID=41CWlB49hnL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

My rear stabilizing jack is one assembly but they sort of run individually to compensate for any difference in the height of the ground so there's no need of any blocking.
 
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