Dometic RM2652 Problem

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

ClassCNana

Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2017
Posts
7
Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and hope I am posting in the right section.  We have a 2000 Fleetwood Jamboree Class C motorhome.  Last year we had a pretty bad electrical storm and since then the fridge has been on the blink and will not get cold.  It is getting power because the Auto light is on.  I would appreciate any advice you can give on what we should check before spending the money for a complete new unit.
 
First, Welcome to the forum.

Make sure the cooling unit isn't leaking.  Inspect the coils and tubes in the back for any yellow residue of cracked tubes.  If you find either of those things the cooling unit has failed.  It's cheaper to replace just the cooling unit.

If you didn't find any obvious leaks follow the steps in this manual : http://www.nancyemmert.com/region6/Resources/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf

Good luck! And let us know what you find.
 
Welcome!!!

Are you actually connected to 120V power? If you release the Auto key, what happens? (It should try to switch to propane operation.... if and when the propane is turned on!) Note: there are 3 fuses hidden in a small black box on the back of the fridge and are accessible through the panel outside. Check them for continuity. One of those fuses is 120V so be carefull!!
 
Thank you 8MuddyPaws and Alfa38User.  I have downloaded the manual and will look for the little black fuse box.  I'll let you know what I find.
 
Our model only has 2 fuses in the black box and they both tested okay.  Checked for leakage and didn't find any evidence of one.  When the Auto button is released nothing happens, no sound or anything.  Any other suggestions.  Since this fridge is 17+ years old, I really don't want to start replacing parts in hopes of finding the one that isn't working.  I think we may remove it and install a 7.5 cf apartment size refrigerator.  We always stop at campgrounds with electric and water hookups anyway.  Thank you both your help and happy camping.
 
This may sound stupid but did you check to see if you have 110 volt AC power at the receptacle where the fridge is plugged in? I would start there. If you don't, check the circuit breaker. It may have tripped in the storm. Shut it off then back on.
 
At this point nothing sounds stupid Rene T, but yes we did check the 110 and all the fuses and breakers that we know of and everything has tested good.  I did read somewhere at the refrigerator needed both 110v and 12v in order to operate off electric, but that it only needed 12v to operate off LP.  Does that sound right to you? 
 
Not Ren? but... it is absolutely right (provided you have propane and it is flowing well (no air in the lines).
 
So if the fridge needs 12v to run on either electric or gas, then if the battery was bad or two low then the fridge wouldn't run at all.  Hum, I think I'll check that battery again tomorrow.
 
Had my houseboat plugged into shore power during a storm and during a storm lightning hit the resort.  It took out one of their TV's and the mother board on my refrig. Put into another new one for about $100 and worked fine after that.
 
Yup, I was plugged into my shop outlet during a storm one time.  Lost the boards on both the fridge and the roof a/c.  Progressive replaced both the fridge and the a/c unit. 
My homeowners had too high a deductible to replace the garage door opener...that was on me.
 
Is there any way for a backyard mechanic to test the mother board, and if so how would one go about doing that?
 
Back
Top Bottom