Can't fix my water heater!! GOING INSANE!

I own a 1996 Holiday Rambler Vacationer SE, Class A motorhome. This is my first RV and I've been fixing any issues (LOTS OF ISSUES! -.-) by myself to save money. I was having an issue with my water heater (before I fixed anything) where I would switch the switch on and it would be in lockout mode and I'd have to switch it on and off for like 40 minutes before it'd kick on. Sometimes it'd stay on, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes it would reheat properly, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes I just couldn't get it out of lockout and I'd have to try the next day.

Fast forward. I want to fix this thing. I bought all new parts on Amazon. This included, new control board, new eco and thermo, and new thermal cutoff. I replaced everything and finally got to the wiring where I was confused. The connector was different then the one I had on before but I was assured this control panel would work with my model, the G6A-8E. After TONS of trial and error switching the cables in different spots (probably not the best idea, I know) I finally found a wire sequence where the igniter would start sparking and the lockout light would stay off. (I looked in the manual for the wiring sequence. The one it showed didn't work. I looked everywhere online, couldn't find anything and the sequence of wiring before I switched out the board didn't work either). After buttoning everything up and a very long day I went inside and held my breath as I pressed the switch.

BOOM! IGNITION! FLAWLESSLY!

I can't tell you how happy I was, let alone my wife. I took a super hot amazing shower. As soon as the hot water in the tank dropped I heard it kick back on, beautifully. My wife took a shower; kicked right back on. Dishes were next; kicked right on. I thought this was the end of the hot water fiasco. Another challenge triumphed. Wellllllllllllllll, I was wrong.

The next night my wife went to switch on the water heater so we could do dishes. Then came the dreaded, "Juuuuuuusssssstinnn........... The water heater isn't turning on". I always assume she messes something up so I go and check but low and behold; not working. I go outside do my normal checks, wires, connections, etc. I have her try it a couple of times and I realize the igniter is still sparking but I don't hear propane spraying at all. The other strange thing is the lockout light didn't come on (which makes me wonder if my wiring sequence is still wrong). I've tried all sorts of things, checked everything I could on the internet, check my manual, but I can not figure this out. I'm hoping it is the stupid wiring sequence but I am just confused why it worked flawless just for the next day it not to work at all. I have propane and the stove tops have been working fine. This is my last resort before calling a tech, which I don't want to do.

Pictures attached of Before/After

https://imgur.com/a/x5FEA

Welcome to the forum. I can't personally help but am hopeful that one or two of our members will chime in. Good luck, sounds like you've been working hard!

You say "This included, new control board, new eco and thermo, and new thermal cutoff".  This is a expensive way to fix something. Wish you would have come here first. The only thing I can add is did you clean out the air tube. Spiders love to build nests in there.  Others will have more things to try. 

Rene T said:

You say "This included, new control board, new eco and thermo, and new thermal cutoff".  This is a expensive way to fix something. Wish you would have come here first. The only thing I can add is did you clean out the air tube. Spiders love to build nests in there.  Others will have more things to try.

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It was about $150. I agree it was overkill but I figured "IM GOING TO FIX THIS!". Sometimes I get a bit over zealous with my spending habits. I checked the tube but I can't even hear the propane coming out of the little hole now  (Which I'm assuming has to do with the cables from the ECO).

Im guess this is an Atwood water heater?  Sadly at that age you probably wasted your 150 dollars.  Replace the poor thing and move on to the next issue.

donn said:

Im guess this is an Atwood water heater?  Sadly at that age you probably wasted your 150 dollars.  Replace the poor thing and move on to the next issue.

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You know, that's been running through my head. I hope its not the case, but it may be. That'll be the last resort; which I'm almost at.

And this time get the one that has both gas and electric heating.

By the Way did you consider the sail switch,  It has to be activated by the blower fan to allow propane to flow.

HueyPilotVN said:

And this time get the one that has both gas and electric heating.

By the Way did you consider the sail switch,  It has to be activated by the blower fan to allow propane to flow.

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Bill, I didn't know they had sail switches and fans on water heaters. Must be a new mod.  : )  Pay back!!!!! 

Rene T said:

Bill, I didn't know they had sail switches and fans on water heaters. Must be a new mod.  : )  Pay back!!!!!

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You got me....LOL  I was thinking about furnaces and propane flow.

Hey I still got copies of your picture...lol

HueyPilotVN said:

You got me....LOL  I was thinking about furnaces and propane flow.

Hey I still got copies of your picture...lol

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Don't even go there. 

So I  have an UPDATE  8)k

Doesn't help me much, but maybe it'll point to the problem. I changed the wiring sequence up some more.

The first two pictures of the wiring sequence the PROPANE STARTING FLOWING AGAIN! WHOOOOOOO! But now no spark. -.-
The last picture with the brown cable in the middle, guess what? NO PROPANE NOW! But I have a spark. -.-

Guys, I'm going insane.  :

https://imgur.com/a/ePN21


Also, food for thought. I switched out the rocker switch for the water heater. Could these three prongs be in the wrong spot now? I don't think that's the case but it's another variable.

https://imgur.com/a/NgynY

With the manuals wiring of
Brown
-
Blue
Red
-
Green

I get propane, no spark, and lockout.

Probably going to buy a new water heater. -.-

Sorry about sending you on a wild goose chase on the sail switch.

In what part of the country are you located?

I replaced probably the same model when I got a call from my Aunt, who I gave a Dutch Star motorhome that had it.

I ordered a new one and had it shipped there.  When I started to change it I saw that the problem was just a loose fitting.  I went ahead and replaced it rather than sending it back.  The one she thought was leaking was perfectly fine.  It is gas and electric and was easy to replace from the outside.

I put it in the box from the new one and I think it is sitting in the garage at the Corona, California home.

Free if you are close and want it.

Let me know and I will have someone make sure it is still there.

HueyPilotVN said:

Sorry about sending you on a wild goose chase on the sail switch.

In what part of the country are you located?

I replaced probably the same model when I got a call from my Aunt, who I gave a Dutch Star motorhome that had it.

I ordered a new one and had it shipped there.  When I started to change it I saw that the problem was just a loose fitting.  I went ahead and replaced it rather than sending it back.  The one she thought was leaking was perfectly fine.  It is gas and electric and was easy to replace from the outside.

I put it in the box from the new one and I think it is sitting in the garage at the Corona, California home.

Free if you are close and want it.

Let me know and I will have someone make sure it is still there.

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That would be pretty awesome. I live in Oregon but I could probably pay for shipping if it were possible.

I just haven't found an answer yet if I can replace my just propane water heater with a propane/electric and would I just have to add another rocker switch and run some extra wiring?

if I can replace my just propane water heater with a propane/electric and would I just have to add another rocker switch and run some extra wiring?

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Yes, unless there is some unusual restriction in space around it. The heaters are the same, though the newer one probably has things placed a bit differently and may require re-routing water lines and wires [the same would be true of a newer gas model]. Basically you need a dedicated 120v power line (the heater draws 11 amps) and an additional 12v switch that operates the relay on the circuit board for 120v heating.

I left a message to make sure that it is still in the garage in Corona.

I found these pictures so that you can make sure that it is the same size as yours.

The 120 volt electric is simple.  You just plug it into an outlet, (the black and white wires in the picture), and the outlet it plugged into had a switch.

Do you know anyone near Corona, (east of LA), that could pick it up?  I am a couple of hundred miles away in AZ.

HueyPilotVN said:

I left a message to make sure that it is still in the garage in Corona.

I found these pictures so that you can make sure that it is the same size as yours.

The 120 volt electric is simple.  You just plug it into an outlet, (the black and white wires in the picture), and the outlet it plugged into had a switch.

Do you know anyone near Corona, (east of LA), that could pick it up?  I am a couple of hundred miles away in AZ.

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Don't know if this would make a difference Bill but the OP has a Atwood and yours is a Suburban. Something to think about. Others may have an answer if it would make a difference.