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Author Topic: Brake line for 1989 Winnebago Superchief  (Read 429 times)

Laserdoc

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Brake line for 1989 Winnebago Superchief
« on: December 02, 2017, 06:09:05 AM »
I had a brake line rust and began to leak and was wondering the best way to replace it. I have a 1989 Winnebago Superchief, 27'.
It was 8" under the connection into the master cylinder. I see 25' copper brake lines for the P30 chassis for sale, has anyone done this or what would be the best way to replace without going to the shop and paying out an arm and a leg.

John Canfield

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Re: Brake line for 1989 Winnebago Superchief
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2017, 07:07:45 AM »
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ChasA

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Re: Brake line for 1989 Winnebago Superchief
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2017, 07:16:51 AM »
Never never never use copper for brake lines. They must be steel.
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catblaster

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Re: Brake line for 1989 Winnebago Superchief
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2017, 08:26:19 AM »
Never never never use copper for brake lines. They must be steel.

  Laserdoc must be referring to copper/nickel brake lines. DOT approved, will not rust and as strong as steel.  You are right pure copper is illegal as well as an accident waiting to happen. I dont think Canada has approved them yet with the exception of Nova Scotia.

    Amazon sells it in a 25' roll so you could make your own with the proper flaring tool.
Will and Jane
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Charlie 5320

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Re: Brake line for 1989 Winnebago Superchief
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2017, 12:18:02 PM »
Unless you are proficient in making a double flare, forget it and have it done. Your life and others may depend on it. Most auto parts stores sell ready made brake lines in different lengths, and couplers.  That's the safest way if you try and do it yourself. I have a decent double flaring tool, but can only make acceptable double flares about 50% of the time. I've just forgot about making my own anymore, and buy store bought lines.
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NewmanRacing

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Re: Brake line for 1989 Winnebago Superchief
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2017, 01:01:21 PM »
The idea of the copper alloy brake lines is easy bending with fingers. I recommend not using them.

Replace the lines with straight steel pre flared lines readily available from all auto parts stores.

Measure the length needed, match the fittings and go to town. You can buy an ok tubing bender for $20.

It is ok to do the new lines in sections using unions to join the sections. Do not use compression fittings.

Replace failed lines end to end.

Start soaking your bleeder valves, all connection fittings and securing points in your favorite rust penetrator in advance of tackling the task.

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