LP Gas system?

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wijames2002

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Posts
168
Location
Tavares, FL
I purchased a used Fleetwood motorhome and can't seem to get any of the gas appliances to work so I thought I would post some questions here before I take it to the repair shop only to find out I did something stupid. First, yes I have gas in the tank, actually 1/2 a tank. and yes I turned on the valve at the tank. I see that there is an emergency shutoff valve. Is this all automatic or is there a switch somewhere to reset it? Is there anything else I can check on my own to try to figure it out?

Thanks in advance
 
It?s possible there?s just a lot of air in the line. Go to the stove with a lighter and try to light. It could take 30 seconds to clear the line. Be sure to hold the lit lighter against the burner while running the gas. Assuming you have a built in sparker, you could use that instead of the lighter, but be sure and spark 1-2 times per second
 
When you hold a flame up to the burner you're trying to light, does the flame flicker a little?

Another possible problem is opening the tank valve too fast. There is a built in safety valve inside the tank and it senses rapid flow of gas. When that happens, the valve will shut. If that's your case, shut the tank valve/valves and let it sit for a while. Then open them SLOWLY. Then do as Scott said.

If that doesn't work, shut the valves again then disconnect the lines going to the tanks. Remove the tanks and tap them on a hard surface like a concrete floor. If the valves are stuck, this may free them up.
 
The emergency shutoff valve is probably hooked up to the LP gas monitor.  Make sure it is turned on and the lights are on in the proper sequence.  Many people remove the solenoid valve because they are not required and can cause issues.
 
boatbuilder said:
The emergency shutoff valve is probably hooked up to the LP gas monitor.  Make sure it is turned on and the lights are on in the proper sequence.  Many people remove the solenoid valve because they are not required and can cause issues.

The only monitor I have is to show how much gas I have left. Is this the one you're talking about? Can you just remove the solenoid without causing problems or do you remove the entire valve?
 
I see that there is an emergency shutoff valve. Is this all automatic or is there a switch somewhere to reset it?

The only emergency shut off I know of would be an old-time LP detector, which triggers a shut-off. These have not been used or required in over 15 years, but some rigs still have them. If the LP detector is turned off or loses power or sniffs an LP leak, the shut-off will be Off and no LP can flow. Check the LP detector in the galley to see if it is turned on and functioning.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
The only emergency shut off I know of would be an old-time LP detector, which triggers a shut-off. These have not been used or required in over 15 years, but some rigs still have them. If the LP detector is turned off or loses power or sniffs an LP leak, the shut-off will be Off and no LP can flow. Check the LP detector in the galley to see if it is turned on and functioning.

Gary, My coach is a 1998 and it does have the shutoff solenoid but I cant find the switch or LP detector in the coach and I've looked everywhere. Do you know if there is a kit I can get to replace the solenoid with a flow thru or is this something I can get from Home Depot?
 
On my 2002 coach the LP detector switch is on a panel of sorts.
It's mounted low maybe 8-10 inches off the floor.

This is what mine looks like.

 

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The gas solenoid can be removed and replaced with standard plumbing supply parts. Just what you need depends on how the original plumbing was done - sometimes there is enough slack to simply insert a suitable union, usually a brass flare type. If the local hardware store doesn't have the right brass fittings, try a gas equipment dealer.

If you want to keep the auto shut-off function, there is a replacement detector & solenoid available from Safe-T-Alert, but they are rather pricey. See http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/safe-t-alert-carbon-monoxide-propane-alarm-brown/48846

You do need a functioning LP detector though, and it should not be hard to find. Down near the floor and usually very close to the stove/oven. You really need to find it - it may just be turned off.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
The gas solenoid can be removed and replaced with standard plumbing supply parts. Just what you need depends on how the original plumbing was done - sometimes there is enough slack to simply insert a suitable union, usually a brass flare type. If the local hardware store doesn't have the right brass fittings, try a gas equipment dealer.

If you want to keep the auto shut-off function, there is a replacement detector & solenoid available from Safe-T-Alert, but they are rather pricey. See http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/safe-t-alert-carbon-monoxide-propane-alarm-brown/48846

You do need a functioning LP detector though, and it should not be hard to find. Down near the floor and usually very close to the stove/oven. You really need to find it - it may just be turned off.

Thank you so much. I feel really stupid for not finding it the previous 4 times I looked but it was behind an ottoman. I turned on the switch and everything works. Thanks again
 
RedandSilver said:
On my 2002 coach the LP detector switch is on a panel of sorts.
It's mounted low maybe 8-10 inches off the floor.

This is what mine looks like.

Thanks, this really helped. I found it now all is right with the world!
 
Great! But keep in mind that the detector is old and they either fail outright or begin to give false alarms when they age. Yours could go at any time, or last for many more years.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
Great! But keep in mind that the detector is old and they either fail outright or begin to give false alarms when they age. Yours could go at any time, or last for many more years.

Thanks, I plan to have it taken out
 
2kGeorgieBoy said:
I hope you meant when you said "taken out", that you are going to replace it with new?

I'll clarify. I'm going to have the auto cut off switch removed, not the detector.
 
The detector is probably well past its "best before" date as well and should be replaced as well.
 
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